Columnist Muriel Stevens: Charm of Surf & Sand unchanged

Wednesday, Jan. 8, 2003 | 8:15 a.m.

Laguna Beach, Calif., has long been a favorite getaway for Las Vegans, and it's where I chose to go for a winter vacation. It takes less than an hour to fly from Las Vegas to the John Wayne Airport in Orange County. And there's no hassle picking up a rental car.

My traveling companion and I were on our way to the Surf & Sand resort. It had been many years since I had stayed in Laguna. One of the most endearing things about a small beach town is that with limited growth, it's a given that the places and sights remembered so fondly will still be there.

Driving the Pacific Coast Highway to Laguna with its panoramic view sets the stage for the Surf & Sand.

A glimpse of the ocean through the landscaping that surrounds the small hotel greeted us as we approached the entrance. With the recent addition of a full service spa, Aquaterra (it opened in January 2002), the Surf & Sand was awarded Four Stars by Mobil and Four Diamonds by AAA.

The venerable Surf & Sand was a motel when it was built in 1954. In 1976 John Colachis (JC Resorts) and his wife, Kathryn, became the owners. Significant changes were made to the decor. A tower topped with a restaurant offering a spectacular view was added.

When Colachis died, his wife became the owner. A talented interior designer, she closed the tower restaurant and turned the space into small suites and built a new restaurant, Splashes, on the beach level.

Splashes is a casual beach view eatery with a comfortable bar just steps from the sea. This all-purpose dining room offers contemporary Mediterranean cuisine with California touches. Breakfast is delightful. The kitchen turns out perfect American breakfasts, and lunch and dinner specialties.

Most beguiling of all is the sound of the surf as the waves break outside your room. We never tired of watching the sun set from our small balcony. Or watching the sea gulls swoop nearby in search of food. Guests are cautioned not to feed the birds, but some guests can't resist. Only once did a gull perch on our railing.

Watching the gulls and pelicans fish for their breakfast while we enjoyed room service (much better than raw fish) was a lovely way to start a day.

Surf & Sand's location in the heart of Laguna makes it ideal. Walk in any direction and find funky little eateries, shops, art galleries and pottery places. We spent a day revisiting Balboa Island and the fun zone and took the obligatory walk through Rogers Gardens. But it was a time for after Christmas sales and we weren't interested, so we happily made our way back to Laguna and the comfort of our room.

We never tired of the ride. Within minutes we were back at the hotel. One of the most adventurous drives we took was just a few blocks away from our hotel. We were invited to dinner at a friend's house, a split level on the highest point of one of the hills that face the ocean.

Just when we were ready to call for oxygen, there was Janet waiting to lead us the rest of the way. Judy was doing the cooking and by the time we made it to the house the sun was ready to set and so were we.

We would never have found our way back down the twisty road without them, but they wanted to see the Surf & Sand and we were delighted to be escorted back to a flat surface.

Later we walked around the property. Each of the four buildings is surrounded by walkways and flower-draped bowers. Bougainvillea vines reach out to touch other flowering creepers as if they were being introduced.

At this time of year the weather is mild during the day, chilly at night. The turn-down housekeeper would turn on the heat and when we returned to our room we would turn it down. It wasn't needed. Only once did it rain; while we were sleeping.

The view was so clear we could almost see Catalina Island. We watched as little kids cavorted with surfboards they could barely carry without their daddy's help. A spear fisherman competed with the birds and a wind surfer came to shore, collapsing the colorful kite-like sail that kept him aloft.

Vacationers are not the only ones who enjoy the Surf & Sand. An Executive Conference Center with all that the name implies is for business types who somehow manage not to be distracted by the beach setting. I hope they find time to unwind at Aquaterra Spa.

Surf & Sand has 165 oceanfront guest rooms, including 13 suites. Winter rates range from $245 to $325 for rooms; rates for suites start at $395. Book well ahead at any time of the year. For reservations and additional information call (800) 524-8621.