Columnist Muriel Stevens: There’s much to love at I Love Sushi

Friday, Feb. 28, 2003 | 8:37 a.m.

Muriel Stevens' dining column appears Fridays. Her shopping and travel columns appear Wednesday. Reach her at (702) 259-4080 or muriel@lasvegassun.com.

Good things in small packages. The restaurant I Love Sushi at 11041 S. Eastern Ave. in Henderson is a gracious, accommodating eatery. The first time I dined there I was with friends who didn't know that sushi rice is made with vinegar. That posed a problem, since one friend was on an acid-free diet.

"Are you sure that sushi rice is made with vinegar?" she asked me.

"It is unless they've changed the rules," I said. I'd studied sushi making in Hawaii long before it became such a cool thing to eat.

When the server arrived to take our order she confirmed that sushi rice included vinegar and offered to have it made with plain rice. Problem solved. We all ordered sushi with plain rice and had a wonderful meal.

Prices at I Love Sushi are terrific. Lunch bento boxes (so pretty) include miso soup, salad, rice, gyoza (dumplings) and a choice of two additional items, such as yakitori, chicken teriyaki, various tempura, tonkatsu (pork cutlet) and more for $7.95. Add $1 for beef or salmon teriyaki. A la carte specialties are also featured.

Dinner bento boxes are $12.95 for additional items; $15.95 for three. Beef or salmon teriyaki are $1 more. Noodle bowls (Udon,$5.50 to $12.50 ), salads ($3.50 to $9.50), a good selection of appetizers ($3 to $8.50) and hibachi-teppanyaki sizzling plates ($9.50 to $16.50) served with salad, soup and rice. The grilled boneless chicken and vegetables sauteed in a light sauce is a good choice for the diet conscious.

"Boat" selections, boat-shaped platters, are available for two or more people ($21.95 to $28.95 per person). The Big Daddy of them all is the Sushi Boat, served with miso soup and rice. Included are tuna roll, spicy tuna roll, California roll, Philadelphia roll, tempura roll, Alaska roll, six pieces of sushi (tuna, salmon, yellowtail, albacore and whitefish), nine pieces of sashimi (tuna, yellowtail, salmon and inari sushi). Good food and great fun to share.

A separate sushi menu offered at a table or at the sushi bar includes more than 90 varieties, some with names that range from the sublime to the ridiculous.

Japanese lasagna, anyone?

Entrees ($9.50 to $12) include salad, soup and rice. I Love Sushi's decor is charming and so is the service and the attention given to the small courtesies that mean so much. If I didn't know better, I'd believe that the entire staff was hired through Central Casting.

Lunch served Monday through Saturday, 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m.; dinner daily, 3 to 11 p.m. For reservations call 990-4055.

Hubert Keller inks deal with Mandalay Bay: Hubert Keller, chef/owner of Fleur de Lys restaurant in San Francisco, is ecstatic about opening a Fleur de Lys at Mandalay Bay. Already under construction and expected to open in October, Fleur de Lys is located nearby Aureole in the restaurant corridor.

This is the first venture outside of San Francisco for Keller and his wife and partner, Chantal. The Kellers are frequent visitors to Las Vegas and have many friends in the city. When I spoke to Chef Hubert after the signing I asked why he had decided to open a restaurant in Las Vegas.

"I love Las Vegas and I think there's huge potential there. I feel at home there. In spite of the slumping economy Las Vegas is still booming. It's always changing and exciting. It's a city that's vibrant and alive."

"I no longer do a New Year's event at my San Francisco restaurant. My wife and I have spent the last three New Years in Las Vegas with some of our friends, including Picasso at Bellagio Executive Chef Julian Serrano and his wife Susan and Chef Jean Joho owner of the Eiffel Tower restaurant at Paris."

The Kellers have owned Fleur de Lys for more than 30 years. At year's end 2001 a fire destroyed the restaurant. After much soul searching the decision was made to rebuild Fleur de Lys. There were concerns that their customer base would be lost; it took 11 months to rebuild the restaurant.

Aug. 12, 2002, without any fanfare, Fleur de Lys reopened. It took just a short time for word to get out (no advertising had been done) and business continued as if it had never ceased.

The contemporary French menu at Fleur de Lys includes some Mediterranean influences. The carte at Mandalay Bay will be similar, with only minor differences. Featured are three-, four- and five-course menus priced from $65. A five-course vegetarian feast (carnivores like it, too) is $65. Currently among the first-course choices are roasted Maine lobster, a tasting of foie gras, oven-roasted quail on a gratin of choucroute and more. Fish, crustaceans, mollusks, meat, poultry and game selections are included among the entrees.

Fleur de Lys offers an International selection of wines. Wine pairings are available with any meal. And if you plan to be in San Francisco before October, the Fleur de Lys reservation number is (415) 673-7779.

Oyster bar at Ventano is hot, hot, hot: Come early if you want to get a seat at Ventano's oyster bar. Ventano at Arroyo Grande and Horizon Ridge in Henderson is the new eatery owned by Arnauld Briand and Carmine Vento. This wild and wonderful team makes every meal at Ventano an adventure.

I've not yet eaten at the oyster bar, but while dining at Ventano recently there was never a break in the flow of diners ready to fill the seats. I guess if I want the lobster bisque served in a bread bowl, one of the Ventano specialties, I'll have to order it at the table. Lobster bisque, the shrimp on the hot stone and the tiramisu for dessert sounds just right.

Transitions: Michael Goodman is the new executive chef at Four Seasons. Chef Goodman is a 13-year veteran with Four Seasons Hotels & Resorts. Goodman comes from the Four Seasons in San Francisco where he was the opening executive chef. His long history with Four Season properties made him a fine choice for Las Vegas.

Says Four Seasons Las Vegas General Manager George Cordon, "Las Vegas is one of the nation's hotbeds for restaurants and Michael's culinary talents ensure that the Four Seasons dining tables are some of the most sought after in the city."

Chef Goodman will oversee all of the Four Seasons food and beverage operations, including The Verandah restaurant, the banquet facilities, the kosher kitchen and the offsite catering program, Four Seasons Catering to You.

Sven Peterson has been named MGM Grand Executive Chef. Chef Peterson will oversee all of the MGM Grand restaurants, the bakery, banquets, in-room dining and all of the hotel's commissary/kitchen areas. Prior to joining MGM Grand Chef Peterson held executive positions with Westin and Hyatt hotels and most recently served as corporate chef for Westin.

MGM Grand President and Chief Operating Officer Gamal Aziz welcomed Chef Peterson to the MGM Grand team, saying, "His extensive culinary arts background, along with his enthusiasm for the food and beverage industry, will help bring us further toward our goal of true dining excellence."

Short orders

One Cool Night at Postrio: What a night it will be when the annual Alzheimer's fund-raiser takes place at Wolfgang Puck's Postrio at The Venetian May 7. Dubbed "One Cool Night," proceeds will benefit The Lou Ruvo Alzheimer's Center, Dr. Leon Thal and the Neurosciences Education and Research Foundation and The Las Vegas Alzheimer's Association.

Joining Puck in the kitchen is renowned French chef/restaurateur Alain Ducasse. Special guests adding more panache to the event will be the venerable Napa Valley wine legend Robert Mondavi and the coolest champ of them all, Muhammad Ali. During the silent auction mingle with such celebs as Steve Lawrence and Eydie Gorme, Angie Dickinson, Paul Anka and Dr. Ruth Westheimer.

Auctioneer will be the man who needs no mike, Robin Leach, and other entertainment personalities. For more information call 876-4500 ext. 3343.

Flamingo Room moved: The Flamingo Room at the Flamingo Las Vegas has been moved, temporarily, to make way for a new Italian restaurant and a Pan Asian eatery (as yet not named) opening in May. They'll replace the Peking Market and Alta Villa. The Flamingo Room can be found in the Tour Lobby. Yes, it sounds a bit strange, but it works.

Chefs For Kids: Chefs For Kids annual fundraiser will take place April 12 at the Four Seasons. As Always, the participating chefs will auction off dinners galore for the benefit of the at-risk school breakfast series and the nutritional education programs.

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