Columnist Muriel Stevens: Living in state of (Ah) Sin fulfills appetite

Friday, Feb. 21, 2003 | 8:47 a.m.

Muriel Stevens' dining column appears Fridays. Her shopping and travel columns appear Wednesday. Reach her at (702) 259-4080 or muriel@lasvegassun.com.

Ah Sin. No, that's not a comment on the return to the days when Las Vegas was affectionately known as Sin City, that's the name of a splendid new restaurant opening at Paris Las Vegas on March 13. And the catchy moniker has little to do with misbehaving. The restaurant is named after a 19th-century character created by writer Bret Harte.

Harte's Ah Sin is a Chinese gambler who outwits a pair of California miners who thought they could cheat him. It's the kind of a yarn only someone who knew the Wild West could spin.

This week I had a preview of this notably different, enticing Asian eatery. Featured at Ah Sin are a host of Pacific Rim specialties -- Thai satays, Korean barbecue, Chinese noodle dishes, Japanese sushi and Malaysian influences. What sets Ah Sin apart is the way the restaurant is designed and the innovative cooking stations.

Accompanied by Paris Senior Vice President of Food and Beverage Robert Zitto and Executive Chef Olivier Dubreuil, I was able to explore every area of Ah Sin and its titillating second-story night-spot, the oh-so-cool Risque.

Ah Sin's menu is extensive, featuring such appetizers as Indochine foie gras, Peking-style stuffed chicken wings and a variety of meal-size soups. Among the salad selection is Chinatown roasted duck salad, Laotian shredded papaya and shrimp salad and Malaysian lobster salad with mango.

Chicken is prepared Peking-style with crisp hoisin-lacquered skin and served with scallion pancakes as well as wok-charred chicken and more. Lamb, pork and vegetable dishes abound.

I'm wild about the satay, barbecue and mu shu station. In the center of the circular Malaysian satay bar is a stainless steel hot box for the barbecue items -- roast suckling pig, Hong Kong pork tenderloin, Barbecued pork ribs, Cantonese crispy roast duck and Siamese barbecued chicken.

Refrigerated glass display cases showcase the satays. Spaced evenly around the station are iron grills. Choose from the satay selection and then cook the satays on the grill.

Doilies (pancakes) for the mu shu are cooked to order on large iron griddles. A dim sum selection made by a dim sum chef from Hong Kong is available anywhere in the restaurant. All of the food is available regardless where you sit, even at the sleek sushi bar.

Service begins with a Zen-inspired hand-washing ceremony. The fountain on the patio supplies the pure water that is part of the ritual. Scented with jasmine oil, the water has a calming effect. So does the view of Bellagio's fountains and the music. Dine inside or on the spacious patio.

Ah Sin will offer lunch and dinner every day, 11 a.m. to midnight and caters on-premise parties. For reservations for parties of 12 or less call 967-7999. For parties of 12 or more call 967-4728.

Risque, above Ah Sin, is for guests 21 years and older. According to Zitto, "Risque is more of an ultralounge than a bar. It's a place to lounge and relax and even shoot pool. The dessert and coffee bar has a flambe station and also offers hot souffles and a variety of pastries from our award-winning pastry chef, Claude Canestrier."

Canestrier was named the 2002 Top Pastry Chef in the world at an international competition sponsored by Pastry Arts & Design magazine.

Risque will be open Wednesday through Sunday from 10 p.m. to 4 a.m. Guests may enter through the new center-Strip casino entrances or through the casino. A cover charge of $20 is applicable to males; the cover for femmes is $10. The cover charge for local men is $10.

Risque includes a private room for intimate parties, a lovely lounge for those who like to get away from the mainstream and more. For table reservations call 967-7999

Michael Mina to cook for 40: Chef Michael Mina, owner and consulting chef at NOBHILL at MGM Grand, will prepare a five-course dinner paired with a tasting of fine wines from Joseph Phelps on March 4.

The dinner at NOBHILL is limited to 40 diners. Included are: Osetra caviar, striped bass carpaccio and purple potato salad; foie gras Wellington with citrus duck salad and seared scallop; poached lobster, spinach mascarpone ravioli and scampi sauce; chicken-fried Kobe Flat Iron beef with truffled ptatoes and root vegetables; roasted rack of lamb and garlic-stuffed artichoke and for dessert, NOBHILL's divine banana Tarte Tatin. Dinner is at 7:30; the price is $195 per person (tax and tip not included).

Craftsteak introduces Craftwhiskey: Las Vegas first society devoted to whiskey, Craftwhiskey, is now accepting members. Craftsteak at MGM Grand is offering a club designed to please those who admire the flavor of spirits and would like to learn more about them. This first club of its kind is an opportunity to explore, in-depth, Craftsteak's extensive collection of world-class whiskeys.

Members of the Craftwhiskey club receive a tasting journal to record their experiences. A complimentary bottle of whiskey comes with the completion of each major whiskey region, including Scotland, Ireland, Canada and the United States. Membership includes private bottle storage at Craftsteak. As part of Craftwhiskey, Craftsteak will host a series of monthly dinners in a private dining room.

Each dinner includes a five-course tasting menu with whiskey and wine pairings and will focus on a specific whiskey region. Dinner price is $55 for members; $95 for nonmembers.

The first Craftwhiskey dinner will be March 10 with an exclusive tasting of whiskey from different barrels from the Old Rip Van Winkle distillery in Kentucky.

Guests will be invited to vote on the barrel they feel should carry the Craftwhiskey name. Once a decision is made the chosen barrel will be branded at the Van Winkle distillery. The goal of the club is to have the Craftwhiskey name on barrels in every major whiskey region of the world. Craftwhiskey membership is limited to 100. To join Craftwhiskey contact Alison Fisher, the club's director -- 891-7318.

Transitions

Four Seasons Executive Chef Wolfgang Von Weiser has been named the new executive chef at Bellagio. Chef Wolfgang will leave the Four Seasons on March 16 and join Bellagio March 24.

Four Seasons Las Vegas manager George Cordon will soon announce the appointment of a new executive chef. It appears that many of the Four Seasons most celebrated chefs would like to move to Las Vegas. Cordon will make his decision after interviewing three "Four Seasons culinary stars."

Short orders

Late night at Tre: Tre, Le Cirque's Maccioni family's newest dining venture in Summerlin, has joined forces with Ginard's Entertainment to present "000" at Tre -- triple zero is the highest grade of beluga caviar.

Beginning today Ginards Entertainment will feature music by DJ Create every Friday and DJ Five every Saturday from 11 p.m. to 3 a.m. Among the foods featured on Tre's late night menu are beluga caviar, a Chelsea seafood platter with clams, mussels, shrimp and oysters, lamb skewers, a variety of sausages and an assortment of tapas.

For the sweet tooth, creme brulee and sorbets. Also featured are Montecristo Rum cocktails. The Montecristo mojitas offered at Tre's grand opening won raves from all who had one, or two, or more. For more information and VIP reservations call 946-6200.

Siena Bistro names new chef and F&B director: Siena Bistro at the Siena Golf Club has named Reiner Sommer, a longtime member of the Las Vegas hospitality scene, executive chef and director of food and beverage. Chef Sommer has cooked for such luminaries as the Sultan of Brunei, Michael Eisner, Kerry Packer and Mike Tyson. In addition to creating new menus, Chef Sommer will launch "a distinctive catering program."

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