Friday, Feb. 14, 2003 | 9:03 a.m.
Muriel Stevens' dining column appears Fridays. Her shopping and travel columns appear Wednesday. Reach her at (702) 259-4080 or [email protected].
Monday evening while driving to Mandalay Bay to join friends for dinner at Charlie Palmer's Aureole, traffic going into the hotel was bumper-to-bumper. I had forgotten that the footwear convention was in town.
All three valet lines were full, but I'm happy to report the seasoned parking staff was courteous and efficient. I did have to wait, but everyone was so nice I didn't mind.
Inside the hotel the scene was the same. Hordes of people. Every restaurant was full. Whoever thought that going to a Strip hotel on a Monday night would take stamina and determination?
At Aureole, it was the same. Full dining rooms, a line of people (without reservations) waiting for tables. My friends were waiting for me in the Swan Court. We were all eager to test the new menu from Executive Chef Robert Kirschoff. This was the first time it was being offered.
Aureole offers a multicourse tasting dinner ($95 per person) and prix fixe dinners ($75) that include an amuse bouche (a special small starter from the chef), a choice of one of many first courses and a choice of main course. Also included are a "pre-dessert" and dessert and petits fours and house-made candies -- all created by pastry chef Megan Romano.
We chose as starters pan-seared Maine sea scallops with fresh fennel and mushrooms braised in Pernod; a smoked salmon roulade with osetra caviar, oysters on the half shell with a Granny Smith apple mignonette -- the mignonette the perfect accompaniment for the plump mollusks; and my choice, sauteed cod cakes with a tapenade of black olives that was an authentic taste of Provence.
The two small cod cakes were perched atop a nest of fennel salad and were drizzled with a touch of orange and basil oils. These were not the salty codfish cakes so dear to my Philadelphia memories. These small cakes were silken and lightly seasoned.
Choosing our main course was more difficult. Such an excellent selection. Two of us opted for the bouillabaisse with chunks of pan-roasted monkfish, tiny mussels, clams and lobster meat in a rich, flavorful broth. A satisfying and delicious version of the classic.
The others chose the seared block of ahi tuna, served rosy rare, with marinated tomatoes and sauteed chive potato cakes.
Among the selection of main courses were roast rack of venison with glazed chestnuts, beer-braised short rib and aged strip steak, butter-basted Maine lobster, gnocchi with black truffles and more.
Dessert posed no problems. We had sublime treats -- a Granny Smith Tart Tatin with apple cider sorbet, a cinnamon sugar doughnut and Apple Jack caramel sauce; a warm, liquid center chocolate torte served with chocolate-raspberry mousse and raspberry sorbet; an irresistible classic creme brulee and an upside down butterscotch pudding cake surrounded by batons of caramelized bananas.
And still there was more -- Chef Megan's elegant candies and petits fours.
When we left the Aureole there was still a line of guests waiting for a table. Come back soon, shoe convention.
More Aureole: Aureole Wine Director Andrew Bradbury has expanded the wine list to 4,500 selections. The complete list will be in effect by Feb. 28. A new wine cellar, soon to be completed, will increase the stock on hand to 50,000 bottles. Bradbury, who has gained international acclaim for his wine e-book recently gained more recognition from an unexpected source.
The 20th Anniversary Edition of Trivial Pursuit includes a card with this question -- "What U.S. city is home to Aureole of Mandalay Bay, the first eatery with an electronics wine list?" The answer, of course, is Las Vegas, thanks to Charlie Palmer's Aureole.
And more Aureole: Until recently it was tough being a tea drinker. I still remember my first tea-drinking experience in Las Vegas when an overzealous server topped off my tea cup with coffee! It happened more than once, so I reluctantly turned to the bean. But after many years tea has come into its own and now tea aficionados can get a decent cup of tea at most good restaurants.
Still, all is not perfect. Too many restaurants offer cups that are larger than the teapots. Some don't even fill one cup. Not Aureole. Its new ceramic teapots are terrific. Each beautiful teapot has a removable infuser basket and metal lid. Tea stops brewing when the first cup is poured and the tea level drops below the bottom of the infuser basket. The size of the infuser basket allows the tea to fully expand. This doesn't mean much with a tea bag, but it's essential with fine tea leaves.
These marvelous pots and the fine loose teas are available from In Pursuit of Tea in Brooklyn. Owners Sebastian Beckwith and Alexander Scott travel all over Asia buying mostly hand-harvested teas from small farms. To learn more about this interesting tea and teapot source call (718) 302-0780 or inpursuitoftea.com.
Transitions
Bellagio Executive Chef Grant MacPherson will leave the resort Feb. 28, "after five wonderful years." After spending some time at home with his family, MacPherson will take off for a cutting-edge adventure with Wynn Resorts in Macau.
Chef Joe Romano has departed from J.W.'s Tavern at The Rio. J.W.'s has closed for renovation after less than four months in business to make way for a bar.
MGM Grand has entered into an agreement with Chef Michael Mina (Aqua, NOBHILL) to create a new concept seafood restaurant in the space formerly Neyla Middle Eastern restaurant. Architect and designer Adam Tihany will work with Mina to create the proper setting for Mina's fabulous seafood fancy. During a recent dinner at NOBHILL Michael shared his innovative idea (still being refined) for a seafood house like no other. It's scheduled for completion in 2004.
Wako Japanese Bistro: Wako Japanese Bistro from the owners of Blue Wave sushi restaurant in Green Valley has opened at 2680 S. Maryland Parkway. Prices are remarkably low. Combination teriyaki dinners -- chicken ($5.50), beef or salmon ($6.50) -- are served with miso soup, salad and steamed rice.
Tempura combination plates are $7.50 or $8.50; a sushi special (steamed rice not included) is $15.50. Included are tuna, shrimp, salmon, freshwater eel, yellowtail with shrimp and vegetable tempura and four special cut sushi rolls. A sashimi special ($16.50) includes three pieces each of salmon, yellowtail and tuna and shrimp and vegetable tempura.
A friend and I happened upon Wako three days after it opened and it was not quite ready, but we stayed and were happy we did. Upon request they turned off the TV. The radio was being tested full-blast. They turned that off, too. Our server was a delight. Not much English, but he really wanted to please us and he succeeded.
In addition to the combination plates Wako offers a la carte salads ($2.50-$5.50), a host of appetizers ($2.50-$4.75), noodle and rice bowls ($5-$6.50), pork and chicken katsu ($6.50-$7) and donburi (Japanese fast food), rice bowls with various additions ($5.95-$7.50).
Worth a try even if they're still working out the kinks.
Short orders
Sazio Wine dinner: Sazio Italian restaurant at The Orleans will host a Chilean wine dinner on Wednesday. Four wines and a four-course dinner for $35 per person. On Feb. 25 Sazio will feature its first beer pairing dinner and tasting for $30 per person. Included are Ayringer Hefeweizen and German veal sausage, Samuel Smith Oatmeal Stout spinach salad, Samuel Smith Winter Ale and spit-roasted pork loin. Dessert is a warm chocolate cake. For reservations to either dinner call 948-9500.
Gourmet Grazer: Alliance of Black Culinarians will recognize Black History Month with its annual Gourmet Grazer at Sam's Town, Feb. 23. From 4 p.m. to 8 p.m. dine on a variety of dishes expertly prepared by some of Las Vegas' finest black hotel and restaurant chefs. The Alliance of Black Culinarians is a non-profit charitable organization that was formed in 1991 to promote education, training and recognition and advancement of black culinarians. Proceeds from last year's Grazer were used for scholarships for needy graduating seniors. For tickets call Chef Datron Green -- 437-2935 or Chef T.E. Williams -- 799-7528.
Wines of the Bible: Wines of the Bible, a tasting event sponsored by the Episcopal Diocese of Nevada, will take place Feb. 23 at the Alexander Dawson School in Summerlin. The event is a fundraiser for the Galilee Camp and Conference Center at Lake Tahoe.
Coordinating the exotic wine selections is Carolyn Prusa, a certified wine instructor with Southern Wine & Spirits of Nevada. According to Galilee Foundation chair, "While Carolyn and her husband Robert Boyd have been on many journeys, she said Wines of the Bible have been the most fascinating and one they are eager to share by offering wines with a truly historical significance." Former Sen. Richard Bryan and his wife Bonnie are honorary co-chairs. For more information call Margaret Kolar, 293-5290.10A new wine cellar (in Aureole), soon to be completed, will increase the stock on hand to 50,000 bottles.
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