Wednesday, Dec. 10, 2003 | 8:20 a.m.
It is never easy to choose the cookbooks for our annual holiday feature and this year was no exception. Cookbooks define our history, our traditions and our lifestyle. But that's only part of their value.
It was Brillat Savarin, an 18th-century French lawyer and devoted gastronome, who said, "Tell me what you eat and I will tell you what you are."
What would he think of the many ways we eat today?
We change our eating habits with each trendy new diet that comes along. You'll find few diet books among the books listed here, though the growing raw-food movement gets its due in a gorgeous new volume from Charlie Trotter and Roxanne Klein.
A number of other celebrated chefs and pastry chefs have written about their specialties. Emeril Lagasse shares recipes from his restaurants, while other chefs and food writers lovingly remember learning to cook with their grandmothers and other family members.
Among the new trends is "Convenience Cuisine," combining scratch cooking with convenience foods, making it a cinch for those who would have little time to entertain at home without such shortcuts. There's more.
So read on. There's something for everyone in this year's bumper crop of cookery books:
"The Maccioni Family Cookbook," Egi Maccioni with Peter Kaminsky (Stewart, Tabori & Chang, $32.50): Earth mother Maccioni shares cherished family recipes and tales of a Tuscan childhood cooking with her grandmother. Egi's sons Mario, Marco and Mauro celebrate their mother in the introduction. Her approach to food is relaxed, easy and wonderful. The recipe for her ravioli with sage and brown butter is a delight. Call any of the Maccioni's Las Vegas restaurants for the date of her book signing.
"The Secrets of Baking," Sherry Yard (Houghton Mifflin, $35.95): I'm always suspicious when a pastry chef is a pretty and petite person, but Sherry Yard, pastry chef at Spago Beverly Hills, is the real thing. Master her brioche recipe and you've got the makings of many other breads and coffee cakes. Her recipes are literate and easy to follow. Whatever the recipe, be it for simple snickerdoodles or an elaborate croquembouche, the recipe will work. An ideal gift for any home baker who aspires to be a star.
"Almost From Scratch," Andrew Schloss (Simon & Schuster, $25): Schloss, the author of "Fifty Ways to Cook Almost Everything," offers 600 recipes for what he calls "The new convenience cuisine." All it takes is a pantry stocked with high-quality staples, ready-made sauces and mixes and Schloss as your guide. Need convincing? Try the dark chocolate souffle made with brownie mix.
"Bistro Cooking at Home," Gordon Hammersley with Joanne McAllister Smart (Broadway Books, $35): Bistro food. Just the thought conjures visions of tasty, slow-cooked foods simmering on the stove. Hammersley is the award-winning chef/owner of Boston's renowned Hammersley's Bistro. He's dubbed dishes that are braised, simmered or roasted "walk-away cooking." After some preliminary prepping, "Just walk away and tend to the rest of your life." Never mind, this is a terrific cookbook with terrific recipes, even if you decide to stay home to adjust the seasoning on the savory Parmesan-crusted lamb shanks.
"The Palm Restaurant Cookbook," Brigit Legere Binns (Running Press, $29.95): I do love it when restaurants share their recipes, but The Palm is a steakhouse, so what's to share? Plenty. How about the shrimp Bruno or the original Monday Night Salad? And did you know the secret of the broiled (not fried) crab cakes, or how to cure a cold with Jeff Phillips' hot blueberry "tea"? Great gift for a guy who likes steakhouses and cooking.
"Lost Recipes: Meals to Share With Friends and Family," Marion Cunningham (Alfred A. Knopf, $22): A charming collection of homespun recipes from America's most gracious cook. Cunningham supplies all the know-how needed "to lure our families, friends and neighbors back to the table, to sit down and eat together." Please pass the shepherd's pie.
"A Passion for Desserts," Emily Luchetti (Chronicle Books, $35): In her third dessert book, Luchetti continues her quest to help home cooks discover a passion for baking. Luchetti, pastry chef at Farallon in San Francisco, shows wit and humor in her creations, turning baked apples into a mock banana split and embellishing a simple cupcake into a sophisticated dessert with milk chocolate ganache and a generous swirl of white chocolate frosting. Yummy.
"Craft of Cooking," Tom Colicchio with Catherine Young and Lori Silverbush (Potter, $37.50): Colicchio is the chef/owner of Craft, Craftbar, Wichcraft and Gramercy Tavern in New York and Craftsteak at MGM Grand in Las Vegas. All of Colicchio's restaurants celebrate his philosophy -- to serve only the freshest foods, prepared simple to preserve the integrity of the ingredients. In "Craft of Cooking," he guides readers through the process of how to find the finest raw ingredients and how to transform them into the pure elegant dishes that define his style -- delicious, down-to-earth food without pretense.
"Neiman Marcus Cookbook," Kevin Garvin with John Harrisson (Potter, $45): Garvin is the corporate chef for all Neiman Marcus restaurants and is involved with all food-related efforts, including cookbooks. There have been other NM cookbooks, but they were collections of recipes from customers. This is then the first "official" Neiman Marcus cookbook. It is a celebration of the 50 years that NM restaurants have been pleasing customers. Chances are that your favorite recipe is among the many favorites that were chosen.
"Modern Mexican Flavors," Richard Sandoval with David Ricketts (Stewart, Tabori & Chang, $35): It won't be long before Sandoval opens Isla, a new Mexican restaurant at Treasure Island. To understand what sets apart Sandoval's Mexican cooking from mainstream Mexican eateries, check out "Modern Mexican Flavors." Sandoval's food is sensational.
"The New American Chef: Cooking with the Best of Flavors and Techniques from Around the World," Andrew Dornenburg and Karen Page (Wiley, $29.95): Who is the new American chef? James Beard Award-winning authors, Dornenburg and Page provide the first reference to fill this information void. Our kitchens are filled with global flavors and techniques. Are we using them correctly? This expert husband-and-wife team has interviewed a bevy of respected culinary experts to get the answers. Includes 100 recipes.
"The Golden Door Cooks Light & Easy," Michael Stroot (Gibbs Smith, Publisher, $29.95): The Golden Door, a posh California spa, offers divine cuisine (small, medium or large portions, your choice) created by Chef Stroot, the first spa chef ever nominated for a James Beard Foundation Award. Stroot has been lauded for his imaginative spa food and presentation. In this new Golden Door cookbook, many of the recipes served during a stay at the luxurious retreat are included, as well as recipes from Rancho La Puerta, a more casual sister property. The book has lovely full-color photos.
"Winning Styles Cookbook: Recipes from The James Beard Foundation Award-Winning Chefs," (Feeding Frenzy, Inc., $42): To celebrate the 2003 anniversary of the birth of the American culinary icon James Beard, 21 of our nation's top chefs, all James Beard Foundation Award-winners, have contributed recipes to this handsome coffee table-size volume. They also share the stories behind their rise to fame. Stunning full-color photographs add more pizzazz. Among the notable chefs featured are some with local ties: Michael Mina, Julian Serrano, Alessandro Stratta, Joachim Spichal and Trotter.
"Sweets: A Collection of Soul Food Desserts and Memories," Patty Pinner (Ten Speed Press, $24.95): Pinner grew up in a large, loving family where the women were known as the queens of soul food. You'll meet them all in this sweet story of an African-American family in a small town in Michigan. From sweet potato cheesecake to peach cobbler made with fresh (not canned) peaches, "Sweets" is as sweet as they come.
"The Vineyard Kitchen: Menus Inspired by the Seasons," Maria Helm Sinskey (HarperCollins, $32.50): "Home cooking is a disappearing craft," writes Sinskey. She aims to encourage readers with seasonal recipes and treasured family recipes that are fresh and appealing. This celebrated chef and vintner is known for forging a rare link between earth and table. Formerly the chef of PlumpJack Cafe in San Francisco, she now offers cooking classes at Robert Sinskey Vineyards in Napa Valley, which she owns with her husband. A lovely collection of recipes.
"Tom's Big Dinners: Big-Time Home Cooking for Family and Friends," Tom Douglas and Jackie Cross (William Morrow, $32.50): A most appealing collection of recipes and reminiscing from a restaurateur/chef whose cooking is adding new sizzle to Seattle's restaurant scene. Included are comforting foods and stories about memorable family meals. With his wife, Cross, Douglas gives us menus and a view of life with his favorite cooks and his mother and grandmother. Every night was a party.
"New World Kitchen: Latin American and Caribbean Cuisine," Norman Van Aken (Ecco Press, $34.95): Crossing new borders, Van Aken, owner of the award-winning Norman's restaurant in Miami, explores the influence of Latin-American cuisine on the American palate. His glorious melange includes the African-influenced Creole cuisines of Cuba, Puerto Rico and Jamaica, as well as South American flavors from Brazil, Peru and Argentina, and the distinct tastes of Mexico. A zesty collection of interesting recipes from a masterful chef.
"Lobster Rolls & Blueberry Pie: Three Generations of Recipes and Stories from Summers on the Coast of Maine," Rebecca Charles of Pearl Oyster Bar and Deborah DiClementi (Harper Collins, $27.95): Maine memories from a family who appreciated every moment on the beach. Treasured memories and recipes to dream about.
"My French Kitchen," Joanne Harris & Fran Warde (William Morrow, $24.95): If you're a foodie, chances are you've read Harris' novels celebrating the joys of food; "Chocolat," "Blackberry Wine," "Five Quarters" of the orange and more. Now Harris shares her collection of treasured family recipes. Beguiling photographs of food and some of the architectural features of homes in small towns. A lovely cookbook and memoir.
"Hawaii Cooks: Flavors from Roy's Pacific Rim Kitchen," Roy Yamaguchi with Joan Namkoong (Ten Speed Press, $32.50): Yamaguchi, founder of the Roy's Restaurant chain, is one of Hawaii's most celebrated chefs. There are more than 30 Roy's Restaurants around the world. Two are in Las Vegas. "Hawaii Cooks" is a companion piece to Yamaguchi's new PBS cooking series, "Hawaii Cooks With Roy Yamaguchi." Beautiful full-color photographs and wonderful recipes.
"How to Cook Everything: The Basics," Mark Bittman (Wiley, $20): "How to Cook Everything" is the perfect gift for a neophyte. Bittman cuts right to the chase with the key elements of cooking -- time, ingredients, equipment and technique. There are no mysteries, no long discourses, just the simple facts of food prep. After mastering the basics novice cooks should be ready to tackle any of the 100 recipes that are included.
"The Metropolitan Bakery Cookbook, Artisan Breads, Pastries and Desserts From Philadelphia's Premier Bakery," James Barrett and Wendy Smith Born (Rodale, $29.95): As a native Philadelphian I admit to some bias when it comes to sticky buns and crumb cakes, but the recipes and anecdotes from the founders of The Metropolitan Bakery are irresistible. The first bakery/cafe was a small one; there are now six locations, a wholesale division, mail order customers and more. You don't have to be a transplanted Phillie to love this book.
"Mastering Simplicity: A Life in the Kitchen," Christian Delouvier (Wiley, $34.85): Delouvier was formerly the executive chef of the Four-Star Lespinasse restaurant at the St. Regis hotel in New York. His passion to become a chef was birthed in his grandmother's kitchen in Gascony, France. His professional career started when he entered in Toulouse at age 14. "Mastering Simplicity" includes many family recipes. Tarte aux pommes, his mother's apple tart recipe, is wonderful. It is not difficult to make. Just follow the step-by-step instructions.
"A Cook's Tour of Italy," Joe Famularo (HP Books, $25.95): Almost as good as the real thing, "A Cook's Tour of Italy" includes more than 300 recipes from the regions of Italy, plus many full-course menus. Famularo traveled every region, seeking out the best dishes each offered. A fine collection of recipes for any level cook.
"Cooking From the Heart: 100 American Chefs Share Recipes They Cherish," Michael J. Rosen (Broadway Books, $29.95): Share Our Strength, one of the nation's leading anti-hunger organizations, will benefit from a portion of the proceeds from book sales. The buyer will benefit from the wonderful recipes and stories contributed by 100 of our nation's most beloved and well-known chefs. For more information about SOS and the cookbook, visit www.strength.org.
"Meze: Small Plates to Savor and Share from the Mediterranean Table," Diane Kochilas (William Morrow, $24.95): Meze is the Greek name for small savory dishes that can turn any meal into a party (think tapas). They fill the pages of this delightful book. Kochilas is an award-winning author ("The Glorious Foods of Greece"), chef, restaurateur and cooking teacher. The recipes are easy to prepare and run the gamut from Greek fries to Ouzo-flavored shrimp.
"Cesar: Recipes From A Tapas Bar," Olivier Said and James Mellgren With Maggie Pond (Ten Speed Press, $29.95): What do you get when three former alum of Alice Water's Chez Panisse restaurant in Berkeley, Calif., open a tapas bar? A super book that includes a collection of 50 tapas and 50 heady cocktails. Eating a variety of small dishes as a meal has become a hip way to dine. It's a fun way to entertain. Most of the dishes can be made in advance. "Cesar" makes it easy.
"A Thousand Years Over A Hot Stove," Laura Schenone (W.W. Norton, $35): Not a cookbook, but this fascinating recounting of the impact women have had on food and eating in America is a compelling read. Schenone segues into her subject by sharing some poignant family history. Today's young women will have a difficult time understanding what was expected of females just a few generations ago. All the more reason to put this extraordinary journey on a shopping list.
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