Friday, Dec. 5, 2003 | 8:25 a.m.
'Tis the season to be merry, and there's plenty of merriment right here in Sin City.
Wine dinners galore, festive feasts for the holidays and more grand dining than royalty of yore ever imagined. And while all of this is happening, small, just-a-step-above-fast-food eateries are struggling to survive.
Recently my mind was on Thanksgiving and chestnut dressing as prepared by my culinary soul mate, Harriett Shapiro, from Cambridge, Mass., and on the traditional dishes my family and I easily prepare from memory.
In the midst of my Thanksgiving preparations, the son of my friend introduced me to Chalow Kabob Mediterranean Express at 6420 S. Pecos Road at Sunset Road. Carl didn't have to drag me to Chalow Kabob, but almost. So, along with Harriett and her spouse, Seymour, we set off for this small Afghani eatery tucked away in the corner of a strip shopping center.
I had been told that Chalow Kabob was a modest place, with little decor, but that the food was excellent.
It turned out to be all that I had been promised and more. It certainly is a modest place, yet there is a white wall with a painted band of colorful flowers. On the opposite wall is a hanging of artificial flowers, a sweet touch in this simple, store-front restaurant. Much of the long, narrow table space is taken up by the special grill needed to cook the kabobs over an open fire. The aroma of spices, garlic and grilled meats whetted our taste buds.
Owner Naseem Azar is a gracious man. He welcomed us and explained some of the differences between Afghani and other foods of the region. At this first meal we let Carl and Naseem do the ordering. First came hummus redolent of garlic and warm pita bread ($2.99), then barely warm ground chicken patties (almost like hamburgers) followed by dishes of chicken curry ($5.99), barrani badejaan (an addictive eggplant dish swirled with lebni), Middle-Eastern sour cream ($5.99) and, finally, the kabobs.
We ordered soltani kabob, a sampler of three kabobs ($12.99), and the lamb kabob (a personal favorite) of marinated lamb chunks ($10.99).
Between Thanksgiving and the few days after, we managed to eat at Chalow Kabob four times. We had ordered the braised lamb shanks (not on the menu) ahead. By then we knew some restraint was called for, so we ordered only the eggplant and hummus as starters. Not even the draft of cold air that breezed by our table each time the door opened dampened our enthusiasm for this delicious food.
Chalow Kabob serves the same menu at lunch and dinner. Everything is available for takeout. All combo plates ($5.99) include two sides. Since most of the food is cooked to order, it's wise to call ahead -- 433-8517.
Chalow Kabob is open from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Monday through Saturday. Catering is available daily. Naseem shared with us a story that gave him hope that word is getting out about the delicious food. He recently catered a private party for 150 people at a major hotel. A call from the person who had ordered the dinner was so complimentary that the proud owner is hopeful that Chalow Kabob will survive and prosper.
Five Diamond dinner at Le Cirque: Le Cirque at Bellagio is celebrating winning a AAA Five Diamond Award by offering a Five Diamond tasting menu designed by celebrated Le Cirque Chef Marc Poidevin and Restaurant Director Mario Maccioni. This special menu will be available through Dec. 24.
Included are hot and cold foie gras, a duo of soups -- white asparagus with crispy duck and sweet pea with prawns, seared sea scallops on oxtail braised in red wine and butternut squash puree, grilled lobster with roasted winter vegetables and a rabbit "martini" with white truffles.
For a sweet conclusion, pastry chef Frederic Larre has created a scrumptious dessert -- bitter chocolate mousse with caramel custard, hazelnut gateau and a praline glaze. Diners can experience this delectable repast for $115 per person (two person minimum).
Le Cirque is open nightly from 5:30 p.m. to 10:30 p.m. Reservations are requested. Call 891-7838.
Bellagio takeout a knockout: Friends who ordered Bellagio's take-away Thanksgiving dinner are still talking about the terrific meal they had. Everything from the way it was packed to the instructions for pickup and the variety of food was lauded.
I even had requests for the recipe for the exceptional butternut squash soup and the gorgeous version of pumpkin pie. I'm working on the soup recipe, but it's nix on the pie. Few home bakers could pull this one off. The unusual pumpkin pie was the work of Bellagio Head Pastry Chef Jean-Philippe Maury and his band of bakers.
I was impressed with the teamwork I encountered when I ordered a dinner for out-of-town friends who were dining on their own on Thanksgiving. Luz Lopez, the assistant to Bellagio Executive Chef Wolfgang von Wieser, walked me through the process. And it was a process, but with each detail explained, right down to where to park, it was simple to relate to the person picking it up.
Analia Polidora, who is the manager of the Gelato-Palio Cafe, took the orders and arranged the pickup times. Executive Sous Chef Edmond Wong, who assists Chef von Wieser, prepared a record number of meals. It appears that most of us want to dine at home, but don't always have the time or space to cook Thanksgiving dinner.
Other Bellagio chefs pitched in, including Stephen Arata, executive chef of the main kitchen, and kitchen coordinator Nori Diaz.
One person who called me was coming to town to have dinner with his son, who is a student at UNLV, and was happy to be able to pick up the dinner the day he arrived. Good dad.
Short orders
McGettigan promoted: Declan McGettigan, previously general manager/publican of J.C. Wooloughan's Irish pub at JW Marriott, has been promoted to food and beverage director.
McGettigan is a personable gentleman with more than a touch of Irish charm and wit. He is a graduate of hotel school in Galway and has enjoyed a career in the hospitality industry since 1979. JW Marriott Director of Operations Stephen Roughley said, "With his vast knowledge of the industry, coupled with his historical presence having been part of the resort's opening team in June 1999, Declan will help us bring the level of service and food and beverage to an even higher level."
Poidevin cooks at Bloomingdale's: Poidevin will share his secrets of cooking French cuisine at home at a demonstration at Bloomingdale's Home Store in the Fashion Show mall on Saturday. Poidevin will be in the demo kitchen of the store in the cookware section from 1 p.m. to 3 p.m.
Pretty in pink: Dan Shannon, executive chef of the Charlie Palmer Group at the Stirling Club at Turnberry Place, and his wife, Laura, welcomed their new daughter, Caroline, last week. Older brother Patrick is as gaga as his mom and dad about this beautiful new addition to the Shannon clan. Chef Dan was previously the executive chef at Astra NY and Astra West in Los Angeles, the catering divisions of the Charlie Palmer Group.
Caffe Giorgio and Children's Miracle Network: Piero Selvaggio will host the official opening of Caffe Giorgio at Mandalay Place on Dec. 11 as a benefit for the Southern Nevada chapter of the Children's Miracle Network. Tickets are $75 per person. All of the proceeds will go to CMN. Included are food, music and a chance to bid on some excellent auction packages. There are many parts to this delightful cafe and the food is wonderful. For tickets call 383-2326.
Wild Truffles now open: Wild Truffles, a European-style sandwich and candy shop, has opened at 7905 W. Sahara Ave. Owned by executive chef Georg Paulussen, Wild Truffles offers gourmet gifts, German chocolates and marzipan specialties. Sandwiches are made with a variety of meats on freshly baked breads. Your choice. Wild Truffles hours are 10 a.m. to 7 p.m. Monday through Friday and 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Saturday. For additional info call 242-1542.
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