Columnist Muriel Stevens: Fanny’s Bistro helps diners take a load off

Friday, Aug. 8, 2003 | 8:17 a.m.

It was pure serendipity that I discovered Fanny's Bistro, Bakery & Deli. I'd spent a fruitless hour searching for two new restaurants that friends had told me about.

It was hot, I was hungry and Fanny's at 80 N. Pecos Road (at Wigwam Parkway) in Henderson was on my way back to the office. And there was parking space right in front.

Fanny's is small, with simple decor. The only decoration is the bakery showcase. When I walked to the counter to read the menu board I learned it was for takeout, and that I could have table service.

Fanny's has limited hours and a small menu, but after one sandwich I'm a fan of this modest eatery. Fanny's serves breakfast and lunch Monday through Friday from 8 a.m. to 3 p.m. Brunch is offered on Saturday from 8 a.m. to 2 p.m.

I was the only one in the dining room, so I couldn't get an idea of what was popular by looking at what others were eating. A well-informed, polite server answered all of my questions. Finally I chose a sandwich -- albacore tuna salad made with apples and celery ($4.95) on whole wheat bread.

It arrived on a dinner-size plate, and was so large it took up most of the dish. With it came a small portion of pasta salad and two chunks of watermelon. It was topped with dark green lettuce leaves, not the usual crisp (but nutrition-free) iceberg lettuce. The bread was wonderful, yeasty and flavorful. It was visually appealing and so inviting.

My sandwich was as delicious as it looked. I savored every mouthful. Even the iced tea was home-brewed.

By now there there others dining, so I could see that what I was enjoying was the norm for this tiny bistro. I later learned that the filling I admired in the over-stuffed pita sandwich was a special request.

When I called Fanny's the next day I talked to chef/partner Robert Sweeney. It was, he said, the restaurant's policy to attempt to fill all requests. "If we have the ingredients available, we'll make it for you."

Fanny's offers sandwiches ($4.95-$7), salads, quiches and a soup of the day served with a salad ($5.50-$6.50); a few smoothies ($3.50-$3.95); and a variety of omelets and egg dishes ($3.95-$8.95), including eggs Benedict, a croissant sandwich with eggs, bacon and cheddar cheese and a frittata. Daily specials are listed on a reader board.

Fanny's takeout deli selection changes frequently, but typically includes the albacore tuna salad, chicken Waldorf salad, a selection of fancy cheeses, such side salads as potato, fruit, Greek and coleslaw and whole quiches. The in-house bakery makes 50 percent of the bakery items -- cookies, croissants, scones and muffins -- and some of the chocolate desserts.

Don't expect fancy surroundings at Fanny's. It's as basic as a cafe can be, but the food is a reminder of life before fast food. Call Fanny's Bistro at 269-1699 for delivery or carry-out or more information.

Short orders

Chef Grady Spears at newest Roadrunner Saloon: Yippee-ai-o, Roadrunner Saloon co-owner Michael Corrigan has lassoed celebrity Chef Grady Spears and convinced him that life in Las Vegas is mighty fine.

Spears, a former cowhand, had been developing restaurants in Texas. He'd never been to Las Vegas and couldn't imagine living here. But Corrigan persisted, inviting the reluctant cowhand to visit and get the lay of the land.

As Spears tells it, "Michael showed me a different city than what I thought it might be like." No expense was spared to give this new kind of Roadrunner an authentic cowboy menu with surroundings to match. This Roadrunner Saloon, at 9820 W. Flamingo Road, is filled with one-of-a-kind Western artifacts and is authentically Old West down to the smallest detail.

Among the menu items recently added by Spears: pan del campo, a cowboy-style pizza; enchiladas with green rice; one-pot ranch hand meat loaf; oven-roasted chicken; and braised pork shank. Sounds good to this tenderfoot.

Lunch is served from 11 a.m. daily; dinner from 5 p.m. to 11 p.m. The bar and lounge is open 24/7. For additional info call 243-5329.

Mucho Grande meals: Family style meals are now available at Willy & Jose's Cantina inside Sam's Town on Boulder Highway. Available from 5 p.m. until closing, these specials are offered to parties of four or more.

Four dinners are featured. Willy's Selection ($9.99 per person) includes nachos, chile rellenos, tamales and chicken flautas. Jose's family meal ($10.99 per person) includes quesadillas with sour cream and guacamole, beef enchiladas, chicken tacos and chicken flautas. The Willy & Jose's selection ($11.99 per person) features beef and chicken taquitos, cheese enchiladas, chicken tacos and chile rellenos. Kiko's selection ($12.99 per person) includes cheese crisps, beef and cheese enchiladas, chili rellenos, tamales and beef and chicken fajitas. All meals include salsa and chips, refried beans and Valencian rice.

Blue Ribbon eClub debuts at Memphis Championship Barbecue: MCB has launched its first program designed to reward online customers. Membership is free and includes a number of membership benefits.

An e-mail newsletter includes information on upcoming events, cooking classes and free entrees for member anniversaries and birthdays. Kicking off this new program is a contest to win two tickets to anywhere Southwest Airlines flies.

MCB customers may sign up anytime to become a Blue Ribbon eMember at all three MCB locations. Enter the contest Monday through Sept. 29.

Whole Foods Market readying to open: Whole Foods Market will premiere its Summerlin store at 8855 W. Charleston Blvd. on Aug. 27. This is the first Whole Foods Market to open in Las Vegas, but it probably won't be the last.

Whole Foods Market has 145 stores in the United States and Canada. Among the many features that make Whole Foods such an exceptional source for natural and organic products is its commitment to providing fresh seafood delivered every day; dry-aged beef; an extensive selection of wine and beer, including organic wines; and offering its own artisanal food line along with as 250 different kinds of artisanal cheeses.

Hernando Fairfoot will be the store team leader.

JW Marriott Las Vegas wine dinner: A winemaker dinner showcasing Sonoma County La Crema wines will take place at JW Marriott Aug. 26.

Chef Peter Sherlock, previously with the Stirling Club at Turnberry Place, has created an ambitious menu: chilled tomato "water" with diver scallops; apple wood smoked quail salad; pan-seared filet mignon topped with Hudson Valley foie gras and a black truffle glaze; and for dessert, the chef's signature Cassis souffle served with a star anise creme Anglaise (English cream).

Ticket price is $95 per person, all-inclusive. Call 869-7777 for reservations.

Red White and Blue at Mandalay Bay: These are crazy times, so the French-themed bistro and brasserie at Mandalay Bay has become an American eatery, offering "three distinct American dining experiences" under one roof.

Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, Red White and Blue's Red menu features regional American cuisine and its signature oyster bar with a selection of bivalves and crustaceans, including oysters, clams, mussels, jumbo shrimp, Dungeness crab and lobster. Blue is the place for deli fare and celebrity-inspired, triple-decker sandwiches. The appealing White counter dispenses an array of pastries and cookies and ice cream.

Dine on the patio, in the cafe or the upscale ambience of Red. Breakfast hours are daily, 8 to 11 a.m.; lunch and dinner hours are Sunday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to midnight, and Friday and Saturday, 11 a.m. to 1 a.m. For reservations call 632-7405.

Dreaming of becoming a restaurant owner?: New York's French Culinary Institute, in conjunction with Cornell University's School of Hotel Administration, is offering a 90-hour course, "The Essentials of Restaurant Management," beginning Sept. 10.

The program addresses the business side of operating a restaurant. Both weekend and evening classes are offered. Tuition for the 90-hour course is $6,300.

For information and enrollment details call (888) 324-2433 or log onto frenchculinary.com/mgmt.

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