Friday, Aug. 1, 2003 | 8:43 a.m.
Muriel Stevens' dining column appears Fridays. Her shopping and travel columns appear Wednesday. Reach her at (702) 259-4080 or [email protected].
Get ready for the next round of new restaurants to open, including Hofbrahaus Las Vegas, a replica of the historic original Hofbrahaus Munich the royal court brewery built in 1589.
Centuries later, after more history and venue changes than can be recounted here, the government owns Munich's Hofbrahaus and Brewery, and kings and commoners can sit side-by-side and clink steins of frosty brews, just as they soon will be able to in Las Vegas.
Here's how it happened:
To open a Hofbrahaus in Las Vegas, managing partners Stefan Gastager, Klaus Gastager, Franz Krondorfer and Anton Sinzger had to convince the German authorities to grant them a license to duplicate the property and find a Las Vegas location that could accommodate a beer garden (biergarten) and restaurant (schwemme -- beer hall). And their wives had to agree to move to Las Vegas. They did.
This intriguing tale was shared with me this week I met with the appealing group of men who masterminded the enterprise. It is an extraordinary saga of grit, determination and talent.
Hofbrauhaus Las Vegas will not open until early December, so why am I writing about it now? Because there's never been an Oktoberfest celebration such as the one these entrepreneurs are creating in a 1,000-seat tent going up in the parking lot at Terrible's Hotel and Casino at Paradise and Flamingo roads.
The word "authentic" has been bandied about until it's lost its meaning -- until now. There will be sit-down service from a wait staff that is newly arrived from Germany. All the food is being imported from Germany; a 40-foot container with 75,000 frozen pretzels is on its way. These yeasty classics will be baked fresh and served warm during Oktoberfest, Oct. 10 to Oct. 26, and at the grand opening in December.
The Oktoberfest menu will feature such Bavarian specialties as schweinbraten (roasted pork), Weiner schnitzel, sausages of every description, including a giant bratwurst dog on crisp bread served with Bavarian fries and the Hofbrauhaus onion mustard, side dishes and apple strudel.
Even the entertainment will be from Germany. Rotating oompah bands (yes, from Germany) will perform at lunch and dinner. The acclaimed Zurich oompah players will appear whenever they are available.
Oktoberfest hours are 11 a.m. to midnight Monday through Thursday and Sunday; and 11 a.m. to 2 a.m. Friday and Saturday. For more information about Hofbrahaus Oktoberfest call 256-5500.
A walk through Fiamma on Studio Walk: New York Restaurateur Steve Hanson thrives on a schedule that would defeat lesser mortals. Intense and passionate about his restaurants, he surrounds himself with young experts (already in place) who share his vision and passion. Joining them on a tour of Fiamma Italian restaurant at MGM Grand gave me an opportunity to watch them putting together the final pieces.
Fiamma's executive staff is an illustrious one with peerless credits. General Manager Clinton Claussen and Assistant General Manager Alex Taylor have intimate knowledge of Las Vegas restaurants with stints at Aqua and NOBHILL.
Michael White, the acclaimed corporate executive chef of Fiamma New York and Las Vegas, will be a frequent presence in the kitchen. Fiamma LV Executive Chef Anthony Amoroso is a gifted young chef who will surely make his mark here; Executive Pastry Chef Elizabeth Katz is another young talent.
Directing the wine programs for Hanson's parent company, B.R. Guest, is Wine Director Greg Harrington, who was the youngest master sommelier ever to be certified. Harrington was previously with Wolfgang Puck's restaurant group.
Lana Trevisan, another Puck alumna, is the director of operations of the Fish Division of B.R. Guest. Trevisan will be assisting with the dining room training for Fiamma's grand opening.
There's much to be learned from Hanson and his team. They're curious, enthusiastic and unflappable. And they know how to relax and party -- oh, do they know how to party.
Fiamma's menu is well-priced and original. First courses put a new spin on a number of classic Italian starters. A choice list of pastas will be featured, including the seldom-seen, low-carb buckwheat pasta. All pastas will be made in-house. The Italian pasta machine is humongous. Fresh fish and seafood and a variety of meats cooked in classic Italian-style are among the main courses priced from $23 to market price; pastas are priced from $14 to market price.
Pizzas will be served only at the bar.
Look for some unexpected pleasures from the pastry kitchen. Pastry Chef Elizabeth Katz's repertoire includes the obligatory tiramisu and some glorious originals. Her version of tartufo is reminiscent of the delectable ones I ate in Rome in St. Marks Square, right down to the dark sweet cherry in the middle.
Fiamma's elegant design is the work of the noted architectural design firm of Yabu Pushelberg. It was still a work in progress when I visited, but the rich zebra wood, warm copper and espresso tones and use of maple and antique brown granite and other natural elements were impressive.
Fiamma's bar will open at 5 p.m.; restaurant hours are 5:30 p.m. to 10:30 p.m. -- hours will be flexible.
From Soho to the Strip, here comes Fiamma.
Short orders
Soooo many wine dinners:
August is wine month at Gustav Mauler's BullShrimp, Spiedini and Sazio restaurants. Every Monday during August wine prices by the bottle or glass are reduced 50 percent.
Bonny Doon wines will be featured at Roy's at 620 E. Flamingo Road Aug. 5. A five-course dinner includes chilled Kumamoto oysters with yazu granita (Bonny Doon "Big House" White), roasted peach and foie gras terrine with strawberry balsamic reduction (Bonny Doon Euro-Asian Riesling), Hong Kong-style scallops and mussels with scallion butter mashed potatoes (Bonny Doon Clos du Roy, Roy's newest private label wine selection), Kalbi-style quail with pearl onions and baby bok choy (Bonny Doon Le Cigar Volant) and for dessert, Lilikoi pudding cake and Bonny Doon Muscat Vin de Glaciere. Dinner price is $65. Does not include tax and tip.
For reservations call 691-2053 or e-mail -- flamingo@roy'srestaurant.com.
Doing the pokey at Malibu Chan's -- Malibu Chan's will host the first Poke Tournament and Taste of Aloha Festival Sunday from 3 p.m. to 7 p.m.; $35 includes samplings of Malibu Chan's menu items, live Hawaiian entertainment, cooking demos and a brief (one-minute) California roll-eating contest.
Among the notable chefs participating in the Poke (pronounced Po-keh) are Wendy and Michael Jordan of Rosemary's, Spago's David Robins, Ming See Woo of Mayflower Cuisinier, William Becker of The Rio, Jeanie Turcato of the MGM Grand, Brandon Konishi of Roy's East Flamingo, Ernest Park of Wasabi Cafe and Russell Uyehara of Nozomi restaurant.
The winner will get to participate in noted Hawaiian restaurateur Sam Choy's annual Poke contest at the Hapuna Prince Beach Hotel in Kona, Hawaii, in September. The contest will begin at 1:45 p.m. Judging is at 3 p.m.
For more information call 312-4267.
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