Columnist Muriel Stevens: For lovers of fine food, every day is ‘A New Day’

Friday, April 11, 2003 | 8:40 a.m.

Muriel Stevens' dining column appears Fridays. Her shopping and travel columns appear Wednesday. Reach her at (702) 259-4080 or muriel@lasvegassun.com.

Dinner at Bradley Ogden at Caesars Palace and then to the Celine Dion show, "A New Day ..." was a fine idea. But for the first time since the hotel opened, I almost lost my way.

I feel that way a lot recently. It's not easy keeping up with all the changes and additions at so many of the hotels.

However, once I accepted that the north valet entrance was gone, and that all I had to do was follow The Colosseum around to the new parking entrance, it was a cinch.

There's ample valet parking and plenty of attendants to take the car. There's also self-parking -- lots of it.

Bradley Ogden's namesake restaurant features fine American dining, so allow enough time to make the 8:30 p.m. show. It won't be long before a prix fixe three-course theater menu is available, making it easier for theatergoers.

Bradley Ogden at Caesars Palace is the ninth restaurant created by the chef/owner, and it is his first restaurant outside of California. In addition to the excellent cuisine, Bradley Ogden is a personal triumph for the chef. It is the first and only of his properties to feature his name, and it is the first restaurant in which his son, Bryan, joins him in the kitchen as chef tournant.

Working with the Ogdens is a cadre of Culinary Institute of America and Johnson & Wales graduates. Most are friends and colleagues of Bryan's. Some worked with him at Charlie Trotter's in Chicago. The celebrated chef/owner Trotter is a friend and former protege of Bradley Ogden.

Bradley Ogden restaurant had not yet opened officially the night friends and I dined there, but there were no glitches and the food was wonderful. The menu changes daily to take advantage of finest ingredients offered each day. Ogden has established keen relationships with ranchers, farmers and fisherman all along the West Coast. Those same sources supply the freshest ingredients to Bradley Ogden at Caesars Palace.

Dining at Bradley Ogden is relaxed and pleasant and busy. Even without any fanfare, there's a full house every night, so don't fail to make a reservation. Some signature items, such as the vintage Summerfield prime New York steak that is wood-grilled and glazed with a mix of red wine, onion and balsamic vinegar ($48), are always available.

It is served with chickpea fries and baby shiitake mushrooms. And I hope they continue to offer the Point Reyes blue cheese souffle, an outstanding appetizer that includes delicious cara cara oranges and delightful Sausalito Springs wild watercress. I'm mad about this dish; each element is so perfectly matched.

The three-beet salad with Carmody cheese is so beautiful. And we couldn't resist the seared hamachi with blood orange compote and tat soi salad. Velvety pan-roasted Hawaiian opah (my choice; $37), served with broccoli and cranberry beans, was excellent, and so was the tender black cod with baby fennel, artichoke and oyster mushrooms ($34).

We barely had time for dessert, but were tempted by a pool of warm tapioca pudding topped with navel orange sorbet and strawberry and rhubarb upside-down cake with strawberry creme fraiche ice cream. Scrumptious.

We dashed to the theater, making it to our seats with nary a minute to spare. Be aware that there is a full security check at the door that may delay getting into the theater. It's all very pleasant and done quickly, but if there's a long line you might be delayed for a few minutes. We managed to get to our seats before Dion made her dramatic entrance.

After dinner my visiting friend and I returned to Bradley Ogden for a nightcap and conversation in the comfortable lounge.

Starting April 21 Bradley Ogden will be open for lunch from 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Dinner service is from 5 p.m. to 11 p.m. Sunday through Thursday; 5 p.m. to midnight Fridays and Saturdays. A light menu is offered at the lounge and bar, which remains open until 1 a.m. or later.

Reservations are recommended. Call the reservation line between 7 a.m. and 11 p.m. at 731-7731.

Short orders

Passover Seder at Temple Beth Sholom: Gustav Mauler, one of two authorized caterers for the temple, will prepare the first night Seder April 16. This kosher Seder is priced at $65 per person for members; $90 for nonmembers; youngsters 5 to 12 years are $25; children 4 years and under are free. To reserve, call 804-1333.

Wine dinner at Craftsteak: Craftsteak at MGM Grand will present a winemaker's dinner showcasing wines from Alban, Au Bon Climat, Knox Alexander and Bien Nacido. Dinner includes assorted shellfish, roasted shrimp, roasted quail, grilled porterhouse steak, braised short ribs, roasted chicken, broccoli rabe, roasted fingerling potatoes, assorted mushrooms and a variety of pastries, ice cream and fruit. Wine dinner price is $95 per person plus gratuity and tax. For reservations, call 891-5576.

Andre's Bec Fin Society: Andre's Bec Fin Society at the original Andre's at 401 S. 6th St. was created more than 10 years ago. It was one of the first winemaker dinner concepts. A Bec Fin Society of Las Vegas dinner with wines from the Gundlach-Bundschu winery will take place May 16.

Ten Gundlach-Bundschu wines, rare and current releases, will be featured along with a multicourse dinner that includes a champagne cocktail hour, amuse-bouche, asparagus with lump crab meat, marinated rabbit loin timbale, braised squab breast, pomegranate sorbet, Colorado lamb trio and dessert. The price is $95 per person plus tax and gratuity. For reservations, call 385-5016.

Philly cheese steak pizza: Domino's Pizza is offering Philly cheese steak pizzas through April 27. The results of a taste test were strongly in favor of this wannabe pizza topped with onions, peppers and mushrooms, provolone cheese and thinly sliced pieces of beef. Philadelphia is my hometown, and I grew up with Pat's steak sandwiches. Domino's is not South Philly, but it is a pleasing pizza. As one fresser remarked, "I like that it doesn't have any gooey tomato sauce."

Creme brulee the chef's way: Meisermeister has introduced a new and improved Cheflamme food torch, a professional-style tool for home cooks. It features an improved lighting mechanism that makes it quick and easy to use. It can produce a pinpoint or flared flame.

This is a smaller version of the torch used by chefs to to create the crisp caramel crust on creme brulee, and it can also be used for browning meringues and roasting peppers. It takes a triple refined butane cartridge, good for 200 minutes of standard operating time.

The Cheflamme torch has a child safety lock and follows the Consumer Product Safety Requirements for child safety. The suggested retail price is $50. Cheflamme Food Torch, model FT-912, is available locally at Sur La Table at Desert Passage at the Aladdin.

Forum Shops restaurant: The new three-story addition to the Forum Shops at Caesars will include a number of new restaurants. Already signed is Joe's Seafood Prime Steaks & Stone Crab. This is the first Las Vegas venture for the nationally renowned Joe's Stone Crab in South Beach, Fla.

Bobby Flay in talks with Caesars: It's more than rumor that Caesars Palace is in negotiations with NYC Chef/restaurateur Bobby Flay, owner of the cool Bolo and Mesa Grill restaurants. Flay is also the host of a number of shows on the Food Network. My favorite is "Eat America." Flay's restaurants and TV shows are never boring.

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