Columnist Muriel Stevens: Star chefs offer celestial dishes at fund-raiser

Friday, Sept. 27, 2002 | 9:12 a.m.

Muriel Stevens' dining column appears Fridays. Her shopping and travel columns appear Wednesday. Reach her at (702) 259-4080 or muriel@lasvegassun.com.

An excellent turnout (more than 600) for March of Dimes Walk America annual Star Chefs fund-raiser Saturday at The Rio raised big bucks for the worthy charity.

Once again many of our town's leading chefs participated, offering a remarkable assortment of upscale edibles. Rio Executive Chef William Becker orchestrated the dining room setup and the food.

It was a very busy affair that began with cocktails and hors d'oeuvres during the silent auction, entertainment by Dreamcast, a live auction and ongoing food and drink.

Southern Wine & Spirits of Nevada provided a variety of stations offering spirited libations galore as well as other beverages.

Making the rounds of the many food stations took skill and stamina -- this was a really big show covering an extremely large area. I managed by using one (too small) plate for three samplings each time I made a pass. Of course I missed some divine dishes, but even sample size portions add up.

It was fun kibitzing with the chefs during their setup time. They've always got some buzz to share.

Among the many sublime foods I tasted were: delicate, crisp, mini-sesame cones filled with spicy tuna tartare from Chinois (Chef Joseph Bennett); New Orleans-style barbecue shrimp from Commander's Palace (Chef Carlos Guia); succulent, braised short ribs with Mediterranean couscous from Postrio (Chef John LaGrone); potato tortilla with Maine lobster and saffron Aioli from Emeril's New Orleans Fish House (Chef Jean Paul Labadie); tender, handcrafted gnocchi with wild mushroom and truffle ragout and pepper-crusted seared beef carpaccio from Speidini and OXO (Chef Emilio La Scala); quail pate crostini, warm piadina with ham, and wonderful cookies and chocolates from Valentino (Chef Luciano Pellegrini).

There was more: Beef tataki with cucumber relish from Spago (Chef Eduardo Perez); truffle essence-seared scallops from Malibu Chan (Chef Kevin Martinez); Hugo's Texas BBQ Shrimp with Maytag Blue Cheese Slaw, one of the signature dishes from Rosemary's Restaurants (Chefs Wendy and Michael Jordan); spareribs with honey balsamic glaze and sauteed new potatoes with bacon and onions from Ceres (Chef Arnauld Briand); house-smoked salmon rilette in a chive crepe with caviar cream from House of Blues Foundation Room (Chef Russell Grabe); a slice of marinated crab spring roll coiled in a porcelain spoon (easy to eat) from Cili Restaurant & Bar (Chef Patton Robertson); Hawaiian yellowfin tuna, poke style, served in a martini glass from Roy's (Chef Roy Potovsky); and smoked salmon and caviar on potato blini Aureole (Chef Robert Kirshoff); and delectable chocolates fr om Aureole Pastry (Chef Megan Romano).

The Rio restaurants -- Fiore, Antonio's, Buzios, Toscano's Bakery and VooDoo Cafe -- had a joint display that featured a splendid assortment of foods. The mini-hamburger bun filled with portobella mushroom was a delight.

My apologies to all the chefs I missed. Running shoes are required to get to all the nooks and corners.

One final note. The evening before, I'd dined at Aureole at Mandalay Bay and mentioned to Chef Robert that the small plates offered at such food walk-arounds were not my favorite. I didn't find Aureole until late in the game when I volunteered to bring dessert to my table. At some point my tablemates and I realized we could do better as a team.

Robert, remembering my gripe, had brought me a service-size plate! Now I was in business. I returned to the table with a gorgeous display of desserts gathered in just one trip to the tables. It was a super end to a lovely evening. Oh yes -- before departing I swept the crumbs from Aureole's beautiful plate and returned it.

Short orders

Chef and restaurant chat: Emeril Lagasse, peripatetic chef/restaurateur, has joined with Fetzer Vineyards and recently debuted Emeril's Classics wines. Initially, the line features two wines, a red and a white. Both retail for a suggested $12.99. Why a wine line?

"A lot of folks are intimidated by wine," Lagasse says. "They feel that there are lots of rules about choosing the right wines -- and enjoying them. I'm hoping to take some of the guesswork out of it for folks by introducing Emeril's Classics. Both are food-friendly wines that pair well with lots of your favorite dishes."

Emeril will once be again be part of the Andre Agassi Charitable Foundation fund-raiser taking place Saturday at MGM Grand.

Love is in the air: Aureole Executive Chef Robert Kirshoff extolling the virtues of marriage. He'll wed his beloved Dec. 5.

Ventano arriving: Ceres at the Regent Chef Arnauld Briand (formerly executive chef and vice president of Food and Beverage at the Desert Inn) will open Ventano, an Italian-style bistro (trattoria) and oyster bar located at Arroya Grande and Horizon Ridge Drive in late November.

Romano pleased: JW's Tavern at The Rio owner Joe Romano says, "The opening Saturday was terrific. The staff performed as if we'd been open for months and the customer comments were so complimentary." What more could a first-time restaurateur wish for?

Fast goings at Tre: Look for the Maccioni family's (Le Cirque and Circo at Bellagio) off-strip casual eatery, Tre at Boca Park in Summerlin to open sooner than expected. "Tre is going up so quickly, it's scary," says Antonello Paganuzzi, general manager for all Maccioni properties. A mid-December opening is expected.

Border Grill at Mandalay Bay: Border Grill at Mandalay Bay will celebrate Halloween in the traditional Mexican way with Dia de los Muertos (Day of the Dead). Border Grill restaurants in Pasadena and Santa Monica will celebrate as well.

Day of the Dead is a remembrance of departed loved ones celebrated with happy thoughts, music and good food. It will take place at Border Grill on Oct. 21 through Nov. 3. Special menus will feature foods typical of the holiday. For more information call Border Grill at Mandalay Bay, 632-7403.

Taste of Vegas: Now through Sunday, the fourth Taste of Las Vegas will take place at the Clark County outdoor amphitheater at the government center. Among the restaurants participating are Aureole at Mandalay Bay, Osteria del Circo at Bellagio, Memphis Championship Barbecue, Charlie Palmer Steak in the Four Seasons, Josef's Brasserie, The Tillerman and more. The Taste of Vegas features food, art and entertainment.

All food remaining after the event will be donated to Community Food Bank. According to sponsors, last year's donation topped five tons. Admission is $8; $4 for senior citizens on Sunday; bring a nonperishable food item and receive $1 off admission price.