Columnist Muriel Stevens: Faberge art a prelude to delicious Bellagio dinner

Friday, Sept. 13, 2002 | 9:14 a.m.

Muriel Stevens' dining column appears Fridays. Her shopping and travel columns appear Wednesday. Reach her at (702) 259-4080 or muriel@lasvegassun.com.

A glimpse of the glory that was an integral part of Imperial Russia is on display at the Bellagio Gallery of Fine Art.

"Faberge: Treasures From the Kremlin," includes 200 Faberge treasures on loan from Moscow Kremlin State Museums and from several private American collections. Beautifully showcased, the exhibit was a delicious prelude to the reception and dinner that followed this "by invitation" event.

Andrea Bundonis, who is the president of the Bellagio Gallery of Fine Art, and who conceived the idea for the event said, "The whole idea in celebrating the opening of this wonderful exhibit was to capture the essence of Russia, specifically Moscow. And so on this evening, while it was 100 degrees in Las Vegas, we wanted to entertain our guests in a winter Russian setting."

The reception on the Grand Patio followed the Russian theme. One station dispensed an "800" vodka named in honor of Moscow's 800th anniversary. Smooth but powerful, it was a fitting accompaniment to the fine Petrossian caviar and smoked salmon offered by white gloved servers. At the caviar and Faberge champagne station generous mounds of the costly roe were placed upon blinis or small potato pancakes. Glorious fare.

From the patio to the dining room was just a short walk, but the illusion of a Russian winter palace included "snow" falling gently as we walked through a frosty white birch "forest" to our elegantly set tables. On the tables a variety of flowers were massed in white birch logs; elegant and stunning.

Dinner began with a savory butternut squash soup with wild mushrooms and bits of chestnuts served in an acorn squash shell. Entree choices included rack of lamb, a roasted duck leg confit or a spicy melange of vegetables and grains.

Dessert was a luscious candied lingonberry tart, topped with a chilled raspberry souffle atop a pool of mango sauce. On the side, delicate vanilla bean gelato.

Such inspired meals are always offered at Bellagio's catered events; the Faberge exhibit can be seen only through Jan. 26.

Truffles at Circo: Something light was called for when I joined visiting relatives for a late supper at Circo at Bellagio. When Circo General Manager Antonello Taganuzzi, who knows well my passion for truffles, advised that a few truffles were on hand, the decision was made. I would have the dish that Antonello had introduced me to some time ago -- poached egg atop fresh asparagus, in a delicate butter sauce, covered with thin shavings of truffle.

The pleasure to be found in such a simple (albeit costly) dish is endless. The unctuous egg yolk flows over the asparagus, coating it like molten gold. Bits of the truffle fall into the mix. The asparagus adds crunch and flavor. Unmindful of table etiquette, I mopped up all of the remaining sauce with bits of crusty bread.

There are new menus in place at both Circo and its elegant sister restaurant, Le Cirque.

Circo serves lunch and dinner. For lunch a salad and one of the thin-crusted pizzas baked in a clay oven is just fine. And there's a good selection of antipasto, pasta, seafood, fish and meats. Pastas are available in half or full orders.

Circo's rack of lamb is excellent and I'd never turn down the traditional Tuscan stew of mussels, clams, calamari, octopus and monkfish.

Desserts are scrumptious works of art created by Chef Patissier Gregory Gourreau for both Circo and Le Cirque. Chef de Cuisine is Brian Konopke. Executive chef for both restaurants is Marc Poidevin.

Mirage restaurants: Cafe Caribe and The Noodle Kitchen at The Mirage have a new look and smashing new menus. Both restaurants have been completely redone by noted restaurant designer Adam Tihany.

And there's more to come, said Bart Mahoney, vice president of food and beverage. Lagoon Saloon will be getting a redesign and "will be given its own entertainment venue rather than be a reflection of the casino." Live entertainment, of course, and more.

The Noodle Kitchen's menu is much broader. There are many wok items and clay pot cookery. Dim sum service is 11 a.m. to 3:30 p.m. Thursday through Sunday. The Noodle Kitchen is open daily 11 a.m. to 2 a.m.

Breakfast, lunch and dinner are featured at Caribe Cafe. The variety of foods served at lunch and dinner ranges from matzo ball soup to rasta pasta salad to shepherd's pie and veal schnitzel. Irish oatmeal at breakfast is a fine way to start the day.

Short orders

Luau benefit at Lake Las Vegas: Saturday and Sunday from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. the Lake Las Vegas Resort in Henderson will host a Polynesian Feast to benefit Ronald McDonald House of Greater Las Vegas. Among the many features are outrigger races, Polynesian food and arts and crafts demonstrations.

For more info call 584-1600.

Conrad's at the Flamingo: Conrad's at the Flamingo Las Vegas has a new menu and a new name, Conrad's Steakhouse. The elegant Conrad's is now open for dinner 5:30 to 10 p.m. nightly. Featured are Chef Ronald Sonson's signature dishes, prime rib, a variety of steaks, seafood and fish, lamb chops, pork chops and chicken. Conrad's chopped salad always wins raves.

Head for Conrad's Cocktail Bar for light bites and appetizers.

Romano to open at The Rio: Chef Joe Romano, formerly executive chef at Aureole at Mandalay Bay will open JW's Tavern at The Rio on Sept. 20. This award-winning chef has created a menu of pub favorites designed to comfort and please. Among the classic American foods being featured are "Mom's" cheddar baked macaroni, fish and chips, grilled soy-marinated flank steak with onion rings, roasted chicken, chicken pot pie and a number of dishes not usually featured at a tavern -- shrimp paella, oven-baked crab cakes, wild mushroom Strogonoff and smoked chicken and sausages. There's much more, including more than 100 beers from around the world.

Chin Chin Offers breakfast: Chin Chin Chinese restaurant at New York-New York is now offering a breakfast buffet 8 am. to 11 a.m. Monday through Friday; 8 a.m. to 1 p.m. Saturday and Sunday. Among the breakfast foods are scrambled eggs, bacon and sausage, waffles, French toast, cold cereals, blintzes, fruits and breakfast pastries along with fresh juices and Seattle coffee. There is no omelet station, but requests for omelets will be filled.

Chin Chin's popular handmade Dim Sum and Then Sum menus will be available during breakfast buffet hours.

Star Chefs for March of Dimes: The fifth annual Star Chefs of Las Vegas will take place Sept 21 at The Rio. Starring is a large cast of star chefs and restaurants, including Rosemary's, Cili, JW's Tavern, Olio!, Valentino, Spiedini, OXO and much more.

This year's event will honor Jay Kornmayer, president of the Las Vegas Chamber of Commerce. For tickets ($175) call Matt Gormley, 732-9234.