Friday, Nov. 29, 2002 | 9:15 a.m.
Muriel Stevens' dining column appears Fridays. Her shopping and travel columns appear Wednesday. Reach her at (702) 259-4080 or [email protected].
A Friends of James Beard Dinner in memory of Chef Jean-Louis Palladin took place Monday at Alize at the Palms. Chef Jean-Louis, who dazzled diners at his Napa restaurant at The Rio, died Nov. 25, 2001.
Andre Rochat and Mary Jane Jarvis, who own Alize, were close friends of the chef as were many of the guests and all of the chefs who prepared the sumptuous feast in his memory.
The evening began with a reception at Rain, the Palms' electrifying nightclub. The splendid hors d'oeuvres -- ahi tuna with cucumber and seaweed salad, smoked whitefish and potato with quail egg, smoked salmon atop blinis and duck proscuitto and pear terrine -- were conceived by Chefs Jean Joho and Joung Sohn of the Eiffel Tower Restaurant at Paris Las Vegas.
All of the chefs participating in the dinner mingled with guests and signed copies of Jean-Louis's cookbook. Jean-Louis had signed the books long before his passing.
Dinner was a glorious stream of tantalizing flavors and textures beginning with Chef Luciano Pellegrini's (Valentino at The Venetian) Insalata de Granchio con Fichi Freschi e Salsa Balsamica, colossal blue crab salad with fresh figs and balsamic sauce.
Generous lumps of blue crab were arranged, flowerlike, atop thin slices of fresh figs. The combination was exceptional. Wine: Domaine Albert BelleCrozes-Hermitage Blanc 1999.
Confit Quail with Chestnut Stuffed Artichoke, Sauteed Foie Gras and Verjus Reduction was a triumph for Chef Marc Poidevin (Le Cirque At Bellagio).
The small pieces of tender quail and foie gras were irresistible; the savory artichoke stuffed with chestnuts was the perfect counterpoint. Wine: Chateau d'Aqueria Tavel Rose 2000.
It must be the Scottish heritage of Chef Grant McPherson (Bellagio executive chef) that inspires him to create such bold combinations as his Grey Goose cured Opaka-Opaka (Hawaiian fish) with oxtail Parmentier and Bouillabaisse emulsion.
The fish was a small package wrapped with spinach and rock shrimp mousse. Under the wrapping a bit of green spinach flashed through. It sat atop a crisp potato galette -- the long, pastalike shreds of potato had been woven into a lacy disc before being fried. Under the crisp disc were tender shreds of oxtail, moistened by the emulsion. Wine: Domaine Henri Boillot, Savigny-Les Vergelesses Blanc 1999.
There were memories galore in the main course, Jean-Louis' Crepinette of Colorado Lamb with Wild Mushrooms and Sweetbreads and Ragout of Young Carrots and Rice Beans. Prepared by Chef Andre and Chef Michael Demers of Alize, it was a poignant reminder of Jean-Louis' creativity. This was one of the dishes he conceived for Napa. Chef Michael, who worked side-by-side with him, was his protege, almost a son. Chef Andre was a dear friend.
When Napa closed Chef Andre invited Chef Michael to join him at Alize. By preparing one of his favorite dishes they honored not only Chef Palladin's memory, they captured the essence of the lamb dish he created. Wine: Domaine Robert Arnoux Las Hauts Mazieres, Vosne-Romanee 1998.
Chefs Michael and Wendy Jordan (Rosemary's) presented a lovely salad with many elements. It was a beautiful sight with mixed baby greens tossed in a foie gras-enhanced mixed-berry vinaigrette. Tucked, but visible, under the greens were tender slices of rare Magret duck breast.
Thin slices of Hudson Valley Camembert cheese emitted a wonderful aroma. Sprinkled throughout the greens, crunchy candied pistachios added another dimension.
Dessert, prepared by Chef Michael Mina and Pastry Chef, JJ Stith (Aqua at Bellagio) was a delicious ending. A sleek Grand Marnier Creme Caramel with a dramatic curl of Amaranth Nougatine was topped with divine candied tangerine segments. It was a scrumptious marriage, joining the caramel sauce with basil essence. Wine: Champagne Paul George Brut Rose NV.
With coffee came petit fours and candies from Chef Charlie Palmer and Pastry Chef Megan Romano (Aureole at Mandalay Bay).
James Beard Foundation spokesman Andy Harris, who had come from Los Angeles to attend the tribute to Jean-Louis, spoke on behalf of the Foundation and recognized all of the chefs.
There were no tears, just warm memories and excellent food. Just the way Jean-Louis would have wanted it.
Puck celebrates Spago: Wolfgang Puck was no stranger to Las Vegas when he opened Spago at the Forum Shops at Caesars 10 years ago. Puck was a frequent visitor to Las Vegas, attending every major boxing contest. When a boxing fan sees a championship bout, maybe even has a few bucks on the winner, he wants a good meal.
There weren't too many restaurants offering the kind of food he and his friends hungered for; the kind of casual, spunky, flavorful food that had made Spago in Los Angeles such a favorite.
There was only one answer -- open a Spago in Las Vegas.
The resounding success of Spago Las Vegas was the first step on the road to making a city formerly known only for gaming and entertainment a dining destination.
The 10th anniversary celebration of Spago begins Thursday when Puck welcomes fans and signs copies of his latest cookbook, "Live! Love! Eat!" at the Wolfgang Puck Cafe at MGM Grand from 4 p.m. to 6 p.m. On Dec. 6, he will sign books at his Postrio at the Canal Shoppes at the Venetian from 2 to 3 p.m., and then at Spago from 4 p.m. to 6 p.m.
Then Puck will go into the Spago kitchen to personally create and prepare a special anniversary tasting menu. The prix fixe anniversary meal will feature seven courses for $70 per person. Add $20 per person for wine pairings selected by Puck's Master Sommelier Luis Santos.
Puck manages to make every event a personal statement, including this one-night only dining experience. The menu is still a work in progress, so a final version might not be in place until the day of the dinner. Puck will be available throughout the dinner to sign cookbooks and to greet and thank his many local friends and guests.
The cookbook will cost $24.95, a special introductory price. Spago dining room will open at 6 p.m.; the cafe will be open from 11 a.m. Advance dinner reservations are advised. For more information about Puck's 10th anniversary visit, call Madeline Benito at 369-0360.
UNLV Hotel College escapes to the Caribbean: The Food and Beverage Department of the William F. Harrah College of Hotel Administration recently held its 6th Annual Industry Appreciation Lunch. Lunch, presented by FAB 467 -- Quantity Food Management class, supervised by Chef Jean Hertzman, CCF and Chef Scott Raimin, took place in the newly refurbished and redecorated Boyd Dining Room.
The theme was a Caribbean escape artfully carried through the menu: tropical fruit salad, spicy butternut squash soup, beef and chicken kebabs with red beans and rice and for dessert, Jamaican rum bananas over vanilla bean ice cream.
Professor Andy Feinstein presented the "Best Friends of CAMP" (Culinary Arts Management Program), award to the Nevada Beef Council. Accepting the award for the beef council were Rachel Buzzetti and Bob Butler of Wolf Pack Meats. The Beef Council and Wolf Pack Meats have" worked with UNLV students for the past five years, performing demonstrations in purchasing and food science classes."
They also donated products and were sponsors of the department's dinner to benefit the Poverello House homeless shelter held on Nov. 2.
Among the Food and Beverage Industry Leaders in attendance were Ralph Durgin and Tony Goitia (Southern Wine & Spirits of Nevada), Bob Borg (Anderson Dairy), Kitti Sanderson (U.S. Food Service), Doug Walker (Bellagio), Todd Clore (Bally's) Laurie Davidson (Southwest Gas), Michael De La Piazza (Sanborn Bakery), Holly Mae Sparks (Emeril's), Hotel College dean Stuart Mann and founding dean Jerry Vallen and his wife Flossie.
One sad note -- the mood of the event changed as the guests remembered Chef Ed Kane who recently died. Chef Kane an adjunct instructor for the Food and Beverage department and was a dear friend and colleague of the food service industry. Father Bernie Fried led the group in a prayer of remembrance for Chef Kane.
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