Friday, Nov. 1, 2002 | 8:10 a.m.
Muriel Stevens' dining column appears Fridays. Her shopping and travel columns appear Wednesday. Reach her at (702) 259-4080 or [email protected].
For some years now I have attended the annual Rebuilding Together with Christmas in April fund-raisers at Four Seasons. Rebuilding Together with Christmas in April is a nationwide home repair and rehabilitation organization dedicated to helping low-income elderly or disabled homeowners live in a "safe and healthy environment."
The last Saturday in April of every year, volunteers of all ages and backgrounds come together to help their less-fortunate neighbors. The fund-raisers usually take place on a Sunday during the fall, and the most recent was Sunday at Four Seasons.
Inspired by the American tradition of barn-raising, RTCA provides a vitally needed service.
This year's honoree was Las Vegas Sun Vice President Sandy Thompson, who was a former board president and was deeply involved with this program until her untimely death in August. It was her kind of a grass roots volunteer organization.
As the program said, "She was the glue that held this organization together during a very challenging time in our history." It was Sandy who introduced me to Christmas in April and when she asked for my help I was happy to give it.
So are the chefs and restaurants who volunteer their talent to make each dinner so memorable. The Four Seasons hotel and Executive Chef Wolfgang von Wieser and his staff opens their hearts and their kitchen to make the dinner possible, welcoming all outside chefs who participate.
During the silent auction and reception guests munched on bite-size savory hors d'oeuvres. Chef Torsten Schulz of Charlie Palmer Steak offered seared salmon on herb crisps and European-style air-dried beef with portobella mushroom;
Chef Wes Kendrick of Wild Sage Cafe presented tiny, tasty roasted lamb sandwiches on focaccia bread and chicken and herbed sausage tucked into profiteroles; Chef Wolfgang prepared his lovely version of the custardy Japanese soup, chawan mushi. Presented in small cups, the warm custard was enriched with shellfish.
Dinner was a heady melange of flavors and textures. Chef Mark Reed of the Stirling Club at Turnberry Place offered a marvelous citrus-marinated salmon mold (almost a tartare), garnished with a quail egg topped with osetra caviar; Chefs Michael and Wendy Jordan, owners of Rosemary's, captivated diners with their creamy chestnut bisque served French style -- a glazed crouton topped with duck rilettes and one plump chestnut placed in the soup dish -- a server ladled the hot soup around it.
The crouton bobbed in the creamy chestnut sea as we attempted to sink the raft of rilettes and chestnut.
Three tasting-size entrees followed: a Kaui shrimp terrine on fennel salad offered by Chef David Kellaway of Mandalay Bay; Chef Bernard Ibarra of The Mirage featured a partridge breast confit atop a round of black bean cassoulet accented with crisps of Bayonne ham; and Craftsteak at MGM Grand Chef Chris Albrecht presented roasted strip of beef accompanied with his signature braised short rib and a glorious Hen of the Woods mushroom, all on a pool of soft polenta.
What a sensational ending. Craftsteak is the newest restaurant at MGM Grand and this was Chef Albrecht's first appearance at Christmas in April.
Lori Steed, owner of Granello Bakery provided all of the tempting small breads, brioche, buns, whole wheat rolls and cracker breads. The herb rolls were irresistible.
Four Seasons Pastry Chef Jean-Luc Daul created the sweet conclusion -- warm chocolate hazelnut cake with cranberry sabayon and honey-lavender ice cream.
In between courses brief messages were delivered by President Al O'Neal; soiree chairwoman Barbara Helgren spoke of her relationship with Sandy and her importance to the program and presented the award to Sandy's husband Gary Thompson and daughter Kelly. Their comments about Sandy as a wife and mother were poignant reminders of the loss so many of us felt.
As always, Emcee Mark Pfister, KLAS Channel 8's irrepressible weatherman, kept us smiling with his irreverent banter.
An additional bit of tenderness was added when it was announced that one of the recipients of home repairs was so touched by her good fortune that she gave up her only possession of value -- an heirloom necklace with a garnet pendant -- to be raffled off. Her offer was immediately countered by entrepreneur and philanthropist, Jim Rogers, who offered to refund the price of the winning ticket to the winner, so the necklace could be returned to the elderly owner. He sweetened the pot with an additional $2,500. What a lovely ending to this tribute to Sandy.
Short orders
Bordeaux dinner at Spago: On Nov. 8, Wolfgang Puck's Spago at the Forum will present a five-course dinner designed to be enjoyed with a tasting of Bordeaux fine wines, especially the highly touted 2000 vintages.
Reservations are required for this business-attire event, which will begin at 7 p.m. with a champagne reception featuring Comte Audoin de Dampiere's Brut Rose Cru (one of my personal favorites). Illustrious guests of honor from the great chateaus of Bordeaux and more. The cost is $250. Seating is limited and reservations are strongly advised.
Call Madeline Benito at 369-0360 for reservations and additional information.
Las Vegas Odyssey: Five teams of outstanding chefs presenting a five-course "Masters Dinner" will be a highlight of the food and wine Las Vegas Odyssey, taking place Nov. 14 through Nov. 17 at JW Marriott.
Participating chefs are: Wolfgang von Wieser and Terence Fong (Osaka), first course; Michael Jordan and Carlos Guia (Commander's Palace at Aladdin), second course; Luciano Pellegrini (Valentino at The Venetian) and John LaGrone (Postrio at The Venetian), third course; Joe Romano (JW's Tavern at The Rio) and Russell Grabe (House of Blues Foundation Room at Mandalay Bay), fourth course; Arnauld Briand (Ventano, Henderson, opening in December) and Gustav Mauler (owner of Spiedini and OXO at JW Marriott, Sazio at The Orleans and BullShrimp at Green Valley Ranch Station Casino) fifth course.
Tickets to the Masters Dinner are $300 per person. A variety of events will be offered as a package or individually. All events have limited seating.
For a full schedule of events or reservations call Odyssey at 257-2345 or access their website: lasvegasodyssey.com.
Ortanique opens for lunch and brunch: Cindy Hutson's Ortanique in South Florida is an award winner. Ortanique at Paris Las Vegas offers the same delicious island cuisine with Hutson's fabulous spin. This is a lady who believes in doing things her way, and her way is special.
Now diners can sample this innovative cuisine at lunch and Sunday brunch. Lunch service is 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Mondays through Saturdays; Sunday brunch is from 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.
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