Columnist Muriel Stevens: Chaine dinner at Le Cirque a winner

Friday, May 31, 2002 | 8:58 a.m.

Muriel Stevens' dining column appears Fridays. Her shopping and travel columns appear Wednesday. Reach her at (702) 259-4080 or muriel@lasvegassun.com.

Traveling will keep me from attending most of the restaurant openings and events written about here, but there is one splendid meal I've already enjoyed. Although I've been on the planning committee for the upcoming national conference of the Chaine des Rotisseurs gourmet society, I will not be here when the members meet.

For some months now, I and fellow Chaine members Jay James (wine director at Bellagio), Michael Severino and Rino Armeni (both, executives with Southern Wine & Spirits) have been tasting our way through the foods and wines that will be served during the special events. The conference will end with dinner at Le Cirque at Bellagio. The Le Cirque tasting took place before my departure -- pure serendipity.

It's not easy to critique these dinners. We are required to use Chaine standards. When courses are sometimes lacking we must, with great diplomacy, of course, do a little tweaking.

From the first course to the last, the tasting dinner at Le Cirque was superb. We changed not one thing. Here's what we ate: Australian spiny lobster with black truffle vinaigrette; a grilled John Dory filet surrounded with a broth made with smoked clams (the smokiness adding a new dimension to the delicate fish); roasted squab and foie gras in a "cartouche" of tender brioche -- the presentation was glorious; and tender, veal cheek braised in Merlot topped with a crusty sweetbread.

Guests will receive only one of the two luscious desserts, so they will have to share to taste both. The most eye-appealing was the roasted blood peach encased in a filo pouch that sat atop a bed of sangria granite. Set in a large martini glass, the pastry top was shaped like a rose and was so beautiful. It wasn't until I reached the center of the white chocolate mousse fantasy with a wild berry coulis that I realized that although the peach presentation was showier, this was the more complex. Inside was a discovery of flavors, a chocolate swath, another of the wild berries; the blend of flavors was marvelous, and surrounding it all, the fragrant wild berry sauce. We tasted one, then the other. We loved them both.

Chef Marc Poidevin, General Manager Antonella Paganuzzi and Managing Director Mario Macchioni accepted our evaluation, "perfect," with their usual aplomb. Why not? This is how food is prepared every night at Le Cirque and its sister, Circo.

More Las Vegas eateries: Las Vegas continues to bust out all over with new restaurants (what, you thought the restaurant scene was quieting down?).

Zax at Golden Nugget will open June 29 on the casino-level site formerly occupied by California Pizza Kitchen. Billed as "Contemporary Continental and Energetic Entertainment," Zax will seamlessly segue from lunch to dinner to become a late-night hangout offering light fare.

Prices are moderate; the menu incorporates the tastes and flavor of many cuisines, including American and Asian. Among the many signature dishes are: Mojo New York steak; Zax calamari, tender buttermilk-dipped and crumb-crusted, served with wasabi ranch dressing and roasted red pepper remoulade; a variety of oversized deli and speciality sandwiches; seared scallops chimichurri and many more. The menu is extensive at both lunch and dinner.

Many of these dishes were part of a tasting I attended and were my favorites.

Zax will be open daily for lunch, dinner and late-night appetizers. Lunch: 11 a.m. to 3:30 p.m.; dinner: 5 p.m. to 11 p.m. The bar will remain open way past midnight. Happy hour drink specials from 4:30 p.m. to 6 p.m. Reservations accepted. Call 386-8201.

Coming soon, J.W.'s Tavern: J.W.'s Tavern will open mid- August at The Rio with owner Joe Romano, formerly Aureole's executive chef. Romano will remain at Aureole until a replacement is found, saying, "My plan is to offer high-quality, casual food at affordable prices, in a comfortable tavern setting." Romano backed up his philosophy with a sample menu. Starters are $7 to $10; entrees $12 to $21; side dishes $4. The charred bone-in New York strip steak with onion rings is the most expensive dish at $21.

Pastry Chef Megan Romano will continue at Aureole. Romano follows in the footsteps of his friend and mentor, Aureole founder Charlie Palmer. Palmer worked in the kitchens of some illustrious restaurants before opening Aureole in New York City.

Food & Beverage Directors Kane and Peltyn: Chef Ed Kane, chairman of the Culinary Arts Department at Southern Nevada Vocational Technical Center and adjunct professor at University of Nevada, Las Vegas, receives the Culinary Achievement Award tonight at Caesars Palace; Sandy Colon Peltyn, vice president of business development and community affairs for Martin & Peltyn Inc., will receive the coveted Atrui Award. Proceeds from the event will benefit the Food & Beverage Directors Association scholarship program, as well as Opportunity Village, Share Our Strength, Life Line and D.A.R.E.

Since its beginning 11 years ago the association has contributed more than $200,000 to its charities.

Pie in the sky at Whiskey Sky: "Whiskey Sky has absolutely no intention of moving from Green Valley Ranch," Rande Gerber said in a letter to Green Valley Ranch Station Casino management. Gerber was responding to an erroneous item that appeared in another paper a few days ago. Gerber and partners own Whiskey Sky's parent company, Midnight Oil.

Gerber continued, "We are thrilled with the success of Whiskey Sky and Whiskey Beach and we have a great partnership with Station Casinos.

"Because of the overwhelming response to Whiskey Sky, several hotels in Las Vegas have contacted us and expressed an interest in working with Midnight Oil Company. However, we have not made any commitments at this time. We have had great success opening multiple locations in the same cities, such as Los Angeles, New York and Chicago, and see no reason to change in the dynamic and exciting city of Las Vegas."

Judging from the crowd (5,000 people) that attended Whiskey Sky's grand opening party May 18, the cool night spot is doing just fine.

Bar Alley at Epicurean Affair: A new feature this year at the Epicurean Affair is Bar Alley. Gathered together around the Venus Pool at Caesars Palace, where Epicurean Affair is taking place, will be a number of our town's coolest bars and night spots.

Epicurean Affair is the opening night event of the annual Las Vegas International Hotel & Restaurant Show, taking place at Caesars Palace June 19 and 20. This year's convention includes seminars, discussion groups and a number of culinary competitions.

Epicurean Affair is open to the public. Advance tickets are $100 per person or $850 for 10, so put together a table and save. Tickets purchased at the door are $125. For tickets call Nevada Restaurant Association, 878-2313, or Nevada Hotel and Lodging Association, 878-9272.