Columnist Muriel Stevens: Rosemary’s at The Rio finally rarin’ to go

Friday, May 24, 2002 | 9:01 a.m.

Muriel Stevens' dining column appears Fridays. Her shopping and travel columns appear Wednesday. Reach her at (702) 259-4080 or muriel@lasvegassun.com.

After many weeks of negotiation, Rosemary's Restaurant owners Wendy and Michael Jordan have signed on the dotted line and will open Rosemary's at The Rio (formerly Napa). This is a good move for both the Jordans and The Rio.

"A bigger kitchen will give us the opportunity to create new dishes," Michael Jordan said. "We're excited by the opportunities this town has given us."

It wasn't too many years ago when Jordan moved to Las Vegas from New Orleans to oversee the kitchens at Emeril's New Orleans Fish House at MGM Grand.

With the Jordans aboard and more local restaurants (new and old) soon to move in -- a New York-style tavern; Hamada will open where Mask used to be -- The Rio may see the return of the locals.

Food policy at Rosemary's at The Rio will be closely related to Rosemary's on West Sahara Avenue: "American fine dining with French influence." Many of the signature dishes, such as the barbecued shrimp and the most-requested rack of lamb, will be featured. The Jordans said they will bring to Rosemary's at The Rio the same kind of caring service and style of food prevalent at the West Sahara Rosemary's.

How will they manage to be in two places at the same time and manage family time, too? They've got quite an ambitious plan, so expect to see one or the other when dining at a Jordan restaurant. Fortunately they have an ace in the hole: Wendy's mother, Maggie Bock, a professional marketing expert.

Bock moved "temporarily" from her home in Texas to help establish the first restaurant and is now a longtime Las Vegan. Listening to Bock explain how it was all going to be was beautiful. When will this intrepid team sleep? I don't think much down time is included in the plan.

Only minor changes will be made in Rosemary's at The Rio. The heritage left behind by the late Jean-Louis Palladin will always be honored. Jean-Louis was a frequent visitor to Rosemary's. He and Michael would sit at the bar and chat.

As part of the decor at Rosemary's at The Rio, Michael has commissioned a portrait of Jean-Louis by the the artist whose works hang at the restaurant. It's an honor that Jean-Louis would have loved.

Peruvian grill a treat: Can the third time (maybe the fourth) be the charm? Inka, Si Senor, a colorful, moderately priced Peruvian eatery, has opened at 2797 S. Maryland Parkway. Formerly the Elephant Bar (and other incarnations that rapidly failed), I expected more of the same old, same old.

Not this time. This is a very friendly place, and the food is interesting and affordable.

This time could be the charm. Don't worry if you don't know anything about this cuisine. Inka's menu is easy to understand. Most of the dishes are authentic, but will not shock the taste buds. Don't expect blue potatoes or Quinoa, but there's a lot of adventure in the small menu.

And there's whimsy and humor. There's something to be said for a fun dining experience. Inka is not a chain; it's the only one in America. There are two in Peru. All of the staff comes from Peru. Much of the food is shipped from Peru. Where else could you find the purple (almost black) corn used to make the soft drink Chicha, a sweet, lovely flavored beverage redolent of cinnamon and clove? I wish they had a sugar-free version.

The decor is pure Peruvian. Every tapestry painting, every photograph, every punched-tin accent, and the humor is an import. The menu reads like a comedy act -- a corny one. It certainly sets the mood for the food.

Some dishes are large enough to share, others are appetizer size. Most of the dishes are pleasant variations on the same theme -- seafood, salads, fish and meat. Most of the meats are on a skewer, including the well-done, grilled tenderloin pieces marinated in Inka's own sauce ($12.95).

Inka's paella is a tasty, generous plateful, studded with scallops, fish, shrimp and calamari. Fresh fish ceviche appetizer was good, but the baked scallops covered with a crisp layer of Parmesan cheese were wonderful.

Sometimes there are specials. And sometimes there are surprises. The restaurant boasts that, "Our food is so homemade it never tastes the same." OK, Inka, I got the message, just don't mess around with the paella.

Inka is open daily from 11 a.m. Except for the specials, the same menu is in effect all day. Dine three times at Inka and guests get to dance with the waiters in the bar. The cool bar is a good hangout. Appetizers are available.

Everyone speaks Spanish and makes a stab at English; some do better than others. Free Spanish "classes" are offered at dinner time. Inka is a fine place for free spirits who like some laughs along with their Peruvian food and brews. I had a ball.

Sweet times at The Rio: For the first time the World Pastry Team Championship will take place in the United States, at The Rio on July 5 and 6. Best of all, this exciting professional event is available to the public.

There are two price options: $250 includes reserved seats for both days of the competition; admission to all demonstrations; a private breakfast on Friday; and the gala awards dinner and ceremony Saturday evening with a one-year complimentary subscription to Chocolatier or Pastry Art and Design Magazine; $150 is the cost to view the competition only, both days. For tickets or additional information call (212) 239-0855 (extension 29 or 34) or check the Internet at worldpastryforum.com.

Commanderie de Bordeaux Las Vegas: Bordeaux, toujours Bordeaux. Members of the newly formed chapter of the Commanderie de Bordeaux Las Vegas will meet at Valentino's at The Venetian for a spring dinner and Bordeaux tasting on Thursday. A six-course repast designed by Chef Luciano Pellegrini will be paired with a range of exceptional wines in large-format bottles.

Potential members are welcome, but be aware that space is limited to 45 people. Jacket and tie are required for men. Dinner price is $175 for members; $200 for potential members. To reserve call Gil Lempert-Schwarz, Le Maitre -- 898-7928.