Columnist Muriel Stevens: Bon Appetit event blows through Bellagio

Friday, May 3, 2002 | 8:55 a.m.

Muriel Stevens' dining column appears Fridays. Her shopping and travel columns appear Wednesday. Reach her at (702) 259-4080 or muriel@lasvegassun.com.

Our town's leading chefs turned out in full force for the 13th Annual Bon Appetit Wine and Spirits Focus at Bellagio. The walk-around dining festival was to have been an outdoor event, but Mother Nature confused March with April and sent winds strong enough to bowl over any food exhibit.

With little notice, Bellagio's resourceful culinary and catering teams turned a ballroom into a food wonderland that couldn't have been better. Working almost around the clock, the participating chefs set up and decorated exhibits and made it all look easy.

I arrived early to see the displays before the guests arrived, and was awed by what had been accomplished. The chefs were visiting with each other, posing for photographs and just having fun. They are the most hard-working, delightful people I've ever been privileged to know, but they know how to be cool when the work is done.

There is a well-known ploy to tasting as many items as possible -- circle the room looking for foods you don't want to miss tasting, take one or two bites, then go on to the next offering. Not easy to do when everything is so tempting. Just do your best, and when you weaken mark it up to research.

Among the many noted chefs and their foods, desserts and specialty items: Bellagio's irrepressible Executive Chef Grant MacPherson offered oblong food plates that included a freshly ground buffalo burger, a skewer of red snapper and a Bellagio ice cream sandwich I ate before I ate the burger; Border Grill's Susan Feniger and her chefs were having a hard time keeping up with the demand for her fava bean and spring onion tamales and the Dungeness crab and shrimp seviche (never did find out if these were available at the restaurants).

Andre Rochat and his partner, Mary Jane Jarvis, mingled with the guests while chefs from Alize at the Palms offered a plump, tasty macadamia-crusted sea scallops on a pool of citrus beurre blanc; Andre's French restaurant featured an assortment of mini pastries and chocolates.

Michael Mina's Aqua at Bellagio presented an utterly wonderful chilled asparagus soup with Dungeness crab and a drizzle of lemon oil; Aureole's barbecued quail with sweet potato hash was another winner. China Grill's Chinese braised beef short ribs with sweet black vinegar and Asian potato cake almost made me forget the two-bite rule. Craftsteak (opening in June at MGM Grand) starred spring lamb with fava bean puree, ramps (so young they were not odoriferous), hens of the woods mushrooms and natural juices.

Jean Joho of Eiffel Tower restaurant blew me away with a cold cream-of-sorrel soup. I'm wild about the tart flavor of sorrel (hard to grow here), but rarely find sorrel soup on any menu. Zesty pepper-seared filet mignon was offered by Emeril Lagasse's Delmonico Steakhouse at The Venetian. The Mirage featured crab rillettes and Bayonne ham with saffron aioli, garlicky mayonnaise. My cup of NOBHILL cioppino was gone before I could think "just two bites." Picasso's Julian Serrano prepared his famous seafood boudin, a sausage stuffed with chunks of lobster, scallops and shrimps -- unforgettable.

Olives creator Todd English tickled the taste buds with soy and brown sugar-marinated skirt steak and a delicate, savory Parmesan flan with sweet peas and morels.

Le Cirque and Circo, Lutece, Mon Ami Gabi, Nectar, Postrio, Pinot Brasserie, Nobu, Olio!, Onda, House of Blues, Lotus of Siam, Pearl, Prime Steakhouse, Rosemary's Restaurant, Renoir, Valentino, Verandah at Four Seasons, 8-0-8 at Caesars, Buccaneer Bay, Charlie Palmer Steak, Commander's Palace, Francesco's and Emeril's New Orleans Fish House were all delicious contributors.

I departed with a plethora of taste memories that will last until next year's event.

Cinco de Mayo

Cinco de Mayo is not to be confused with Mexican Independence Day, which takes place in September. Cinco de Mayo celebrates the Battle of Puebla, when a small band of Mexicans armed with little more than their passion defeated Napoleon's best militia. Cinco de Mayo is celebrated in American cities with large Mexican populations, such as Las Vegas.

Willy & Jose's Cantina at Sam's Town on Boulder Highway will celebrate today through Monday with drink and dinner specials. All-you-can eat beef fajitas are the special today ($10.99). While Willy is cooking up heaps of fajitas, Jose will be in the bar offering Los Taquitos for $2.99 with a purchase of a Cadillac Margarita. After 10 p.m. enjoy a free bowl of menudo with the purchase of a Cadillac Margarita or free taquitos with the purchase of a Grande Margarita.

More specials will able available throughout the weekend. Willy & Jose's Cantina offers dinner Sunday, Monday and Thursday, 5 p.m. to 10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 5 p.m. to 11 p.m.

Silverton puts a new twist on Cinco de Mayo with Corona de Mayo today through Sunday. Sponsored by KKLZ 96.3-FM, Corona de Mayo is a weekend of specials, including Coronas for 96 cents at any casino bar, live mariachis and all kinds of slot promotions.

Fireside Cafe has good food deals -- Tamale Oaxaqueno, chicken with a traditional Oaxaga Indian sauce covered in masa and wrapped in banana leaves ($10.95); Taco de Pescado Achiote, fresh mahi mahi with corn tortillas is the same price. New York Carne Asada con Chiliancho, ancho chili-rubbed New York strip steak, is $12.95. All specials include Spanish rice, Borracho beans and a choice of tortilla soup or the house salad. A Margarita Feast ($11.99) will be available Sunday at the All-American Buffet, 8 a.m. to 9 p.m. Many Mexican specialties, a tortilla chips and salsa bar and flan and sopapillas are included.

Since 1979 when the first Ricardo's opened, locals have shouted, "Ole!" There are two Ricardo's locations: MGM Grand, and 4930 W. Flamingo Road at Decatur Boulevard. Each locale has its own personality. Food prices are moderate. President and owner Bob Ansara credits the longevity of his restaurants to having "great team members working with us from the beginning."

"Our food, rooted in native and Spanish traditions, zaps taste buds with rich and rustic flavors and when matched with one of our Cuervo Especial margaritas, well, it's as close to Mexico as you can get," Ansara said. Vegetarian, American and children's meals are also available.

Ricardo's at MGM Grand includes a Hot Shop, featuring more than 300 hot sauces from around the world, gifts, housewares, candles and much more. For additional information or reservations call 736-4970 (MGM Grand) or 871-7119 (West Flamingo).

Ricardo's offers complete catering services in a wide range of prices. Call 876-9660, ext. 105.

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