Columnist Muriel Stevens: Lempert-Schwarz’s efforts command attention

Friday, March 22, 2002 | 9:24 a.m.

Muriel Stevens' dining column appears Fridays. Her shopping and travel columns appear Wednesday. Reach her at (702) 259-4080 or muriel@lasvegassun.com.

After a few years of intense campaigning, Wine Institute of Las Vegas founder Gil Lempert-Schwarz reached his goal. There is now a Commanderie de Bordeaux in Las Vegas.

The venerable organization attracts serious wine enthusiasts who enjoy the pomp and ceremony that goes with wines at this level.

The first induction of members, a black-tie event, took place at Emeril Lagasse's Delmonico restaurant at The Venetian. Officiating at the ceremony was guest of honor Angus Smith, who is grand master of the Commanderie de Bordeaux for the U.S. (Grand Maitre de la Commanderie de Bordeaux aux Etats-Unis).

Each candidate was introduced by the newly dubbed Commandeur Lempert-Schwarz, then Smith made it official by touching each one on the left shoulder with a magnificent hand-forged silver scepter, which has a gnarled vine design domed with a cluster of grapes. As Lempert-Schwarz said, "It was like being knighted."

Dr. William Boren, Steffan Cederquist, Dr. Luke Ceasaretti, former Sen. Chic Hecht, Michael Luce, George Manska, Edwin Prud'homme, Larry Ruvo, Per Skoldin, Dr. David Wasserman and Jeffrey Wyatt were pronounced worthy members. Commandeur Karl Brandmeir was already a member in Dallas. He transferred his membership to Las Vegas where he resides.

Also in attendance were Commandeurs Tony Cosentino (Phoenix), Scott Bailey (Miami), Larry Pitts (Palm Springs, Calif.) and Grant Esterling, who chairs the Commanderie Expansion Committee.

Of course, the Bordeaux wines were the stars. With the Louisiana lump crab cakes, Chateau Smith Haut-Lafitte 1998, Blanc, Pessac-Leognan; a rich saute of wild and exotic mushrooms with truffle cream in a tart shell was paired with Vieux Chateau Certan 1982, Pomeral. As the meal progressed, so did the wines. Chateau Palmer 1970 3eme Grand Cru Classe, Margaux with the bone-in ribeye; Chateau Canon La Gaffeliere 1961 St. Emilion Grand Cru Classe with the international cheese selection, toasted walnuts and pears.

Dessert was a passion fruit tart with a shortbread crust and apricot sauce paired well with Chateau Raymond Lafon 1989 Sauternes.

The Las Vegas Commanderie is off to a fine start.

New menu at La Provencal: La Provencal at Paris Las Vegas is giving its musical staff something new to sing about, a new menu of French-Italian specialties. Appetizers, soups and salads, sandwiches, pizza, pasta, entrees, desserts and specialty coffees are available daily from 10:30 a.m.-10:30 p.m.

Chef Ryan Fahey's signature rustic eggplant relish with grilled country bread is a delicious appetizer. Bouillabaisse is another excellent dish. Served from a cast-iron pot set in a table-height, wrought-iron stand, the stew remains hot to the last bite. This is a wonderful bouillabaisse.

Sandwiches are offered from 11:30 a.m.-5 p.m. There are 10 pasta dishes and 10 entrees. Each meal includes fresh vegetables and crusty bread from the Paris Las Vegas bakery. Reservation number: 946-4656.

Park Place resorts celebrate Easter: Lavish Easter weekend buffets and brunches will be featured at Bally's, Caesars Palace, Flamingo Las Vegas and Paris Las Vegas.

Caesars Palace will offer a champagne buffet in the Palatium from 8:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Breakfast foods, salads, smoked salmon and shrimp cocktail, a carving station with prime rib, roasted wild turkey, bone-in ham, seafood gumbo, many entrees (including grilled New York steak), garlic chicken and grilled swordfish. There's much more. Champagne served throughout the day. Prices: $21.99 adults; half-price for children ages 4-12; kids 3 and under free.

Bally's Big Kitchen Buffet will offer special holiday fare on Easter Sunday from noon-10 p.m. Snow crab legs, peeled shrimp and smoked salmon will be featured at the seafood station. Prime rib, roasted leg of lamb roast turkey breast are offered at the carving station. The Chinese, Italian and American stations will serve a wide variety of favorites, including lobster and shrimp with brandy sauce, rotisserie chicken, roasted duck and much more. Price: $19.95.

Cafe Lago at Caesars will serve an Easter Sunday breakfast buffet, 7-11 a.m.; champagne brunch, 11 a.m-5 p.m. Featured at the champagne brunch sushi, shrimp cocktail, crab claws, crab salad, hickory-smoked pork loin, Virginia baked ham, prime rib, macadamia-crusted sea bass and heaps more of everything from appetizers to desserts. Prices: $13.99, breakfast buffet; $19.99, champagne brunch.

Le Village Buffet at Paris will feature Easter buffets Saturday and Sunday. Both days, breakfast will be served 7-10 a.m.; a champagne brunch, 10 a.m.-4:30 p.m.; and a champagne dinner, 4:30-10 p.m. Dine in the Village Square or in one of the attractive themed dining rooms. Each of the five stations will offer regional specialties designed for the holiday: leg of lamb, prime rib, roasted ham, free-range chicken, veal Marengo and roasted duck -- the variety of foods is terrific. Price: breakfast, $11.95; champagne brunch or champagne dinner $23.95.

The Flamingo Paradise Garden Buffet will offer a $16.95 Easter buffet from 11:30 p.m.- 10 p.m. Special menus are offered in the Flamingo Room, Lindy's and Alta Villa restaurants. And just in case you're still celebrating St. Patrick's Day, O'Sheas casino next door to the Flamingo is offering Irish beer specials, coned beef sandwiches and an opportunity to win a trip to Ireland.

Short orders

Cooking for a Healthier Tomorrow: Restaurateur Gustav Mauler is one of just 54 certified master chefs in the U.S., owns four successful eateries and still finds time to participate in such important events as this free lecture with food. Cooking for a Healthier Tomorrow takes place Monday in the Sunrise Hospital auditorium at 7 p.m. Working with the affable entrepreneur will be Carolyn Leontos, Nevada Cooperative Extension nutrition specialist and professor. Leontos is a nationally recognized nutrition expert, author, registered dietician and certified diabetes educator. She will highlight the health benefits of the foods prepared by Chef Mauler.

Mauler's menu includes roasted salmon with sweet hot mustard and garlic spinach, orichette pasta (derby-shaped) with broccoli, cocktail tomatoes and arugula and a blueberry and apple crisp. Reservations are required. Call 731-8033.

Get ready for Tre: Building starts the first week in April for the first off-the-Strip venture for the Macchioni family, which owns Le Cirque and Circo in New York and Las Vegas. Tre is named for the three Macchioni brothers. Mario, who makes his home in Las Vegas, is certain to be a presence along with Circo and Le Cirque General Manager Antonello Paganuzzi. Both will continue to oversee the Strip properties. Tre will feature regional Mediterranean cooking from Italy (Tuscany), France and Spain. Tre is being built in Summerlin across from Boca Marketplace. A September opening is anticipated.

Kosher appliance parts: All of the bowls and other parts needed for a kosher kitchen with many small appliances are available by mail from Culinary Parts Unlimited. Order by phone (800) 543-7549 or online at culinaryparts.com any time. CPU stocks food processor parts for Cuisinart, Krups, KitchenAid and Brawn; bowls, beaters and whisks for KitchenAid, Cuisinart, Sunbeam, Krups and Oster; blender parts Oster, Hamilton Beach, Cuisinart, KitchenAid and Braun and coffee-maker parts for most popular brands. Orders are shipped within 24 hours. Air shipping is available for kosher cooks who discover they need replacements a few days befor Passover.

Lamb cookie cutters at Sur La Table: One of the handcrafted copper lamb cookie cutters from Sur La Table at Desert Passage would make a lovely Easter gift for a favorite cook. Bunny cutters, too, as well as a well-rounded assortment of decorative porcelain eggs and ceramic chick cups. One dozen fluffy yellow chicks in a basket will fill one of the wire crates. Fashioned from feathers, the little birds can stand on their own as a centerpiece.