Friday, March 8, 2002 | 9:48 a.m.
Muriel Stevens' dining column appears Fridays. Her shopping and travel columns appear Wednesday. Reach her at (702) 259-4080 or [email protected].
A Sardinian dining experience created by Chef Marco Porceddu for the Las Vegas chapter of the Chaine des Rotisseurs was a delicious introduction to the kind of food Chef Marco has been cooking at Francesco's at Treasure Island since his arrival four years ago.
Sardinians farm and fish for their edibles. Being surrounded by water gives them access to a large variety of seafood. The Chaine dinner reflected the chef's heritage.
Our first course, crab and langoustine mousse topped with beluga caviar, was accompanied with two ribbons of Sardinian bottarga (pressed roe). The jerky-like, slightly briny flavor of the colorful bottarga was a new taste for most of us, but it was wonderful. Wine: Pacific Echo Vintage Brut Rose, 1997.
Grilled calamari with dried olives, oven-roasted tomatoes, artichokes and a drizzle of spicy chili oil was a challenge to pair with wine. The sweet, tender calamari was paired with the rich strong flavors of the artichokes, olives and chili oil. Delightful on its own; a bear to pair. Wine: Moscato D'Asti, I Vignaioli Di S. Stefano, 2001.
A square of Orata, a Sardinian bass found in only one part of the Adriatic sea, sat atop a golden saffron potato and was garnished with warm red grapes and champagne vinegar; a lovely merging of flavors. Wine: Arneis Blange, Ceretto, Piedmont, 2000.
Creamy risotto studded with fines herbes, a mix of many herbs, with shavings of Parmigiana Reggiano, was perfect. There is no cream in a classic risotto. The creaminess comes from arborio, short-grained Italian rice, and the expertise of the chef. A fine risotto is cooked to order, as ours was. Easy to do for three or four diners; a tad tricky when doing it for a group of 60. Wine: Barco Reale, Tenuta di Capezzana, Tuscany, 2000.
We left the sea for the shore with the chef's savory "Oxtail Candy," tri-colored pasta twisted to resemble paper-wrapped candy. One touch of the fork and the plump oxtail-and-sauce-filled pasta burst with juice and strands of tender oxtail. How did the chef encase the sauce? He shared his secret with me, but I'm honor bound not to blab it. Wine: Chianti Classico Reserva, Castello di Monsanto, Tuscany, 1998.
Veal loin roulade, rolled with a profusion of black truffles and fresh porcini mushrooms was a splendid finale. Veal loin had been sliced and pounded, then filled with the luxurious truffles and porcini mushrooms. Centered on a stark white plate, it was a beautiful sight. The flavor was rich and robust; the portion just right. Wine: Barolo Zonchera, Ceretto, Piedmont, 1997.
Dessert was deceptively light. A small pastry horn baked by the chef (he does all of his own baking), was filled with lemon-flavored pastry cream and surrounded with fresh berries. Offered with this luscious dessert were Mirto-Sardinian Berry Liqueur and Villa Massa Crema di Lemoncello and assorted Sardinian cookies baked, of course, by Chef Marco.
During the cocktail hour Francesco Lafranconi, who directs the Southern Wine & Spirits Wine Academy, offered a new cocktail he dubbed Cosmitalian -- Due Chardonnay Italian Vodka, Toschi Fresh Sweet 'n Sour, lime juice and cranberry juice. And a new Americano -- Campari Aperitif, Cinzano Sweet Vermouth and soda.
With dinner came baskets of Carta di Musica (sheets of music) aka Pane Carassau, crisp Sardinian flat breads. Available only for special occasions. We devoured stacks of these unusual flat breads. Chef Marco had added his own touch, sprinkling the tops with dried olives and pepper and a sprinkle of olive oil.
The Chaine menu was designed by Chef Marco and Treasure Island Food and Beverage Director Adam Odegard and members of the culinary team.
As a parting gift everyone received a small bag of Sardinian cookies. Mine were gone before I reached home.
More Francesco's: Francesco's menu is mostly regional Italian. Guests in the know can request a meal of Sardinian specialities. For me it's the only way to go. Francesco's at Treasure Island offers dinner Friday through Tuesday, 5:30-11 p.m. Prices are moderate to expensive. A five-course tasting dinner is $65 per person; $80 with wines. Chef Marco's Sardinian specialties, mostly seafood, are a bit more.
New Orleans brunch at Mayflower: One of New Orleans' best known chefs, John Folse, brought more than a touch of New Orleans to Las Vegas when he prepared a Jazz Brunch for 60 at Mayflower Cuisinier Chinese restaurant.
Dr. Randy and Jill Colquitt, Scott and Kathy Dugan, Dr. Richard and Sherry Colquitt, Dr. Shelby Wilbourne and Jeff Richards bid for and won the brunch package that Folse was kind enough to donate at a Chef For Kids fund-raiser (Folse will participate in this year's Chef For Kids event, too).
When Mayflower's owner, Ming See Woo, offered her kitchen and restaurant for the festive brunch, everyone was delighted. Balloons, beads and other baubles decorated the tables. Everyone was in the mood for the hot beignets, biscuits and dark, rich French-roast coffee that are a tradition at any New Orleans brunch.
Chef John is a charming man. We'd met in New Orleans some years ago and renewed our acquaintance in Mayflower's kitchen. Talk about chefs being adaptable. A Chinese kitchen is filled with woks, not skillets, but brunch couldn't have been better, even if, as the chef said, "This was the first time I cooked a Cajun omelet in a wok. The crawfish were so confused they tried to jump out."
It's a good thing the chef prevailed. The Eggs a la Creme omelet was a winning dish -- lightly scrambled eggs with Louisiana crawfish tails and basil, thyme and green onions were folded into bechamel sauce and topped with Cajun caviar (from a centuries-old sturgeon that still thrives in Louisiana).
As Chef John said when discussing the combination of Cajun and Creole foods that he cooks, "In Louisiana we may die early, but we die with a smile on our face."
With great wit and good humor and some food history, Folse held his audience captive. Brunch continued with grillades and grits Cabildo -- thin cuts of round steak, braised until fork tender and served over creamed garlic grits; deadly, but so delicious. Dessert was an embellished version of French toast, Pain Perdu (lost bread) Count Pontchartrain -- French bread soaked in vanilla custard, sauteed and topped with fruit-infused champagne syrup.
It was a super meal served expertly by the staff and Woo's son, Tony, and daughter, Teresa, who is the restaurant manager.
After brunch those who were swift enough managed to purchase a copy of Holse's latest cookbook, "Hot Beignets & Warm Boudoirs," an adjunct to his PBS series featuring the bed and breakfasts of Louisiana. The books sold quickly, disappearing like the hot beignets at our table. This is Folse's sixth cookbook. If not available locally it can be ordered directly by calling (225) 644-6000.
More Chefs For Kids:
Bidding for the chef packages at this year's Chefs for Kids event should be a hoot. Before the hosts of the New Orleans brunch departed they convinced Ming See to offer a Chinese New Year's brunch package. Of course they want to bid on it, but so will many others who want to support such a good cause and dine well.
The Chefs For Kids dinner will take place May 10 at the Four Seasons. After a lavish reception at 6 p.m. Chef Folse and his staff will join with Four Seasons Executive Chef Wolfgang von Weiser and his staff to prepare a special dinner. Tickets are $150 per person or $1,200 for a table of eight. The bidding on the special dining packages offered by a host of outstanding Las Vegas chefs make for an exciting event.
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