Columnist Muriel Stevens: Flavors of the islands explode at 8-0-8

Friday, March 1, 2002 | 9:12 a.m.

Muriel Stevens' dining column appears Fridays. Her shopping and travel columns appear Wednesday. Reach her at (702) 259-4080 or muriel@lasvegassun.com.

Dinner at Jean Marie Josselin's 8-0-8 restaurant at Caesars Palace is always exciting. New menu choices have increased the pleasure of dining at this Hawaii-inspired eatery.

I was happy to be with two friends who share my enthusiasm for food and enjoy sharing as much as I do: Clark Wolf is an internationally recognized restaurant consultant and food maven who is consulting with Caesars Palace on all things culinary, and Nancy Fletcher represents the California Milk Advisory Board.

We adored the New Wave bento box appetizer ($17), a lunchbox-like basket filled with assorted 8-0-8 appetizers. Each cubbyhole held a delicious surprize. We carefully cut each one into three almost-equal portions -- chopsticks are not quite as good as a knife -- oohing and aahing over each one. There is a certain protocol to sharing, but we had all mastered the art.

Another appetizer, a poke sampler of three different seafoods, had us poking our chopsticks into each seafood packet.

Choosing entrees was more difficult; we wanted all of the new seafood dishes, but managed, finally, to order seabass with a citrus ponzu reduction, wok-charred mahi mahi with a delicate lime-ginger beurre blanc and pan-seared turbot. The fish had arrived that day. They were fresh and sweet and, as prepared by Chef de Cuisine Wesley Coffel, simply wonderful. Coffel came to Caesars from Josselin's Hawaii restaurant, so he is well prepared to represent Josselin.

Maitre d' John Sarabia's wine suggestion was glorious: Flowers Pinot Noir from California. Caught up in the spirit of the marvelous food and wine we toasted the chef, the wine and the good fortune that had brought us together.

We shared one dessert -- even passionate foodies have their limits -- a house-made sorbet sampler ($7.50). Sorbets of coconut, pineapple and Hawaiian papaya filled a crisp cookie bowl perched atop more sorbet that acted as ballast, preventing the cookie bowl from listing into the surrounding chilled cantaloupe soup. A delectable finish.

Dinner hours are Thursday through Monday, 6-11 p.m. Reservations are suggested. Call 731-7110.

Bellagio's O'Shields honored: Bellagio's Vice President of Food & Beverage Bryan O'Shields has been selected as the Silver Plate recipient in the Hotels & Lodging category by the International Foodservice Manufacturers Association. He'll be formally acknowledged during the awards ceremony taking place in Chicago in May, the week before the National Restaurant Show.

On May 17 all Silver Plate winners will be introduced to members of the trade press at a luncheon in their honor. Only one among the eight Silver Plate winners will be the recipient of the Gold Plate. The singular honor, voted on by secret ballot, will be announced at the Gold Plate banquet at the Chicago Hilton and Towers May 20.

One of the many benefits of being awarded a Silver Plate is membership in IFMA's International Gold & Silver Plate Society, made up of past award recipients. Whether O'Shields wins the gold, he has already garnered a singular honor.

Viva la Champagne Bar at Paris: Once a male bastion with a cigar mentality, the Champagne Bar at Napoleon's at Paris Las Vegas is a welcome change from the original. I recently had the opportunity to sample some the new fare and bubbly during a private party.

Napoleon's is a beautiful setting with comfortable seating and luxurious appointments. More than 100 champagnes and sparkling wines are available by the bottle or by the glass and there are many cocktails that include a base of champagne along with a variety of other ingredients. Be aware that these concoctions are more for those who like the idea of champagne rather than the champagne itself. Some were as thick as smoothies.

Food selections are prepared in the room by the Champagne Bar chef -- a friendly touch. The selection is small, well-chosen and reasonably priced. A seafood ceviche ($8, here called a salad) included shrimp, scallops and whitefish marinated with blood orange juice, extra virgin olive oil and lemon thyme; four slices of seared foie gras atop brioche toast ($14) with some fig compote on the side; caviar (1-ounce beluga, $135; 1-ounce domestic, $45); jumbo shrimp cocktail ($8) and a variety of rillettes ($7) are offered. Order a bottle of champagne and the rillettes price is reduced by half.

Desserts are lovely: chocolate fondue (per person, $6), an assortment of petits fours ($8.50), assorted chocolates ($12) and a lovely conceit -- chocolate-covered fruit served on a "tree"; included are strawberries, pineapple, bananas and dried apricots -- 8 pieces $9, 16 pieces $17. The price drops by half when a bottle of wine or champagne is ordered. A jazz trio entertains.

Sommelier Bruno Bonnet does a trick with a saber and a bottle of champagne that is a kick (only done on special occasions). An interesting way to pull a cork.

The Champagne Bar is open Sunday through Thursday, 6 p.m.-2 a.m.; Friday and Saturday 6 p.m.-3 a.m. Food service nightly, 6 p.m.-1 a.m.

Short orders

Bellagio garde-manger chef wins top award: "There's more to competition than cooking," Martin Heierlinge, Bellagio's chief of garde-mangers, said. He was talking about Chef Avelino Miranda, who recently won top honors in the Boursin "Chef of the Year" contest in Honolulu, walking away with the $5,000 grand prize and the title. "He's a great team player in his environment," continued Heierlinge, "and dedicated and committed to whatever he does.

"His success at the Boursin competition, where he worked alone, confirms his organization and culinary talents."

Chef Miranda was one of six finalists from across the country who vied for the title by preparing their original recipes for a panel of judges. Chef Miranda's imaginative creation, Boursin Trilogy, included Boursin Spiced Gournay Cheese in salmon cannelloni, proscuitto ravioli and baked stuffed figs. The contest recognized food service professionals from around the country.

George Markantonis named chairman: George Markantonis, senior vice president of operations at Caesars Palace, has been appointed Chairman of the Board to the Nevada Hotel and Lodging Association. Markantonis is a charming gentleman who has been with Caesars Palace since 1995. As SVPO, he is also involved with food operations.

It's A Grind coffeehouses to open: Entrepreneur Darell Lucy has joined forces with Kinko's founders Gerry and Tom Alesia, to open 27 It's A Grind coffeehouses around Las Vegas. No word yet on where the first It's A Grind will be located.

Castaways opens San Brisas Buffet: Asian, Hawaiian, barbecue, Italian, Mexican and American specialties are offered at the all-new San Brisas Buffet at the Castaways. Monday night is Hawaiian night ($10.95), Tuesday through Thursday are regular dinner nights ($8.95), Friday and Saturday it's Seafood Spectacular time ($14.95), Sunday night dinner features prime rib. Dinner hours are from 4:30 p.m. Champagne brunch is offered Saturday and Sunday ($8.95) from 9 a.m.-3 p.m. Checkout the specials at the breakfast buffet ($2.50) offered Sunday through Thursday from 10:30 p.m.-7 a.m.

Free knife sharpening: Raley's markets are offering free knife sharpening. Stop at any checkstand, ask for a knife holder and use it to bring the knives to the meat counter. The sharpened knives will be ready the next day. Buck knives, scissors and serrated blades are not accepted. There's a limit of three knives each visit.

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