Even off the Strip, food courts bountiful

Max Jacobson

Wednesday, June 26, 2002 | 8:29 a.m.

The growing diversity of what we eat is well-reflected in a number of food courts, which by and large are no longer limited as they once were.

Here are four good off-Strip examples. Next week, we'll take a look at food courts on the Strip, which are far more varied than their off-Strip counterparts:

Green Valley Ranch Station

There are lots of delicious choices at the food court at Green Valley Ranch Station Casino. The food court hasn't been as busy as anticipated; some speculate that the placement, toward the back of the casino, isn't favorable. Others say that the casino's excellent Feast Buffet somwhat cuts into business.

Stage Deli (11 a.m. to 10:30 p.m. Mondays through Thursdays, 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Fridays through Saturdays) has terrific brisket, corned beef and pastrami sandwiches for $5.99, served with cole slaw and a half sour Kosher pickle wedge. The matzo ball soup ($2.95) has a nice chicken broth and an enormous, fluffy matzo ball that takes up most of the bowl. Also on the menu is great New York cheesecake from New York's Carnegie Deli.

Pizza Luna (11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Mondays through Thursdays, 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Fridays through Saturdays) sells pies created by Wolfgang Puck's corporate chef David Robins. And they're extremely good, cheesy and chewy, and served piping hot. Just $2.55 buys a slice with a topping such as basil pesto with fresh tomato, or a nicely flavorful pepperoni.

Fatburger (open 24 hours) is a wildly successful chain that always seems to have a line, and why not? The Fatburger is a tasty, never-frozen patty for $3.49. Such add-ons as a fried egg or back bacon are only 50 cents each. Fries are cooked in 100-percent canola oil. Shakes are made from hand-scooped ice cream.

Panda Express (11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Fridays, 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Saturdays) offers good steam table Chinese, with meals beginning at $3.99 for combinations. Black pepper chicken, beef with broccoli and black pearl shrimp (mushrooms, asparagus and black bean sauce) are a few of the better options.

The Coffee Bean and Tea Leaf (7 a.m. to 11 p.m. Sundays through Thursdays, 7 a.m. to midnight Fridays through Saturdays) is a topnotch alternative to Starbucks, with great drinks from $1.65 and killer cookies from Selma's, a local bakery.

Palms

This comfortably situated food court between the casino and the entrance to the Brenden Cinemas complex has a handsome parquet floor and cheerful, bright-orange tables and chairs. Smack in the middle is a Ben & Jerry's concession.

Pizzeria Regina (11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Mondays through Thursdays, 11 a.m. to midnight Fridays through Saturdays), a Boston-based pizzeria that some say serves the city's best pizza -- thin, crisp and topped with a delicious marinara and lots of whole-milk mozzarella. Its deluxe pizza is called Giambotta, and it's loaded. Other possible toppings include pecorino cheese or roasted eggplant. Slices are from $2.75; whole pies are from $10.95.

Garduno's Fresh Express (noon to 10 p.m. daily) has close ties to the Maloof family, owners of the Palms. The Maloofs have a longtime relationship with Garduno's in New Mexico and they were able to open the first Garduno's at their first hotel and again at the Palms. Faithfully reproduced is Garduno's New Mexico-style cooking. Crispy, meat-filled taquitos are $4.95. Fajitas and tacos, steak or chicken served with rice and beans, are $5.75. The combo Mexi Sampler (three tacos, a half quesadilla and nachos) is $5.95.

Other vendors at this food court are Panda Express, (11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Mondays through Thursdays, 11 a.m. to midnight Fridays through Saturdays), Coffee Bean and Tea Leaf, (7 a.m. to 11 p.m. Sundays through Thursdays, 7 a.m. to midnight Fridays through Saturdays), and McDonald's, (7 a.m. to midnight Mondays through Thursdays, 6 a.m. to 3 a.m. Fridays through Sundays).

Neonopolis

The food court at this new downtown complex is a large space equipped with a huge seating area. There are four tenants for the court's nine spaces, but eventually all nine will be filled.

All properties operate from 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily. One of the four is the ubiquitous Panda Express, which needs no further description.

Three Boys Pizza is a one-of-a-kind operation that serves pizza, two kinds of chicken wings, honey barbecue and fire, and a few Italian dishes, such as baked ziti, served with garlic bread. The wings are six for $2.50; 12 for $3.49. Ziti is also $3.49.

Popolini's specialty is Italian gelato, and there is an attached espresso bar as well. Many of the gelati are made locally by Italcreme, nondairy ice creams and sorbets in a wide array of flavors: Cassata, Tiramisu and Cherries Jubilee being a few examples. The fresh fruit sorbets are especially good. One scoop is $3, two scoops, $4 and three scoops, $5.

Muscle Beach Lemonade and Hot Dogs has cool, pungent and sweet drinks that sell for $2.20 (20 ounces) or $2.50 (32 ounces). A Zacky Farms turkey hot dog on a stick is $2. A Black Angus all-beef hot dog, cooked on a roller grill and served on a bun, is $2.50.

Plaza

This is the only downtown casino that has a small food court. The choices may be limited, but it's the only game in town.

McDonald's (5 a.m. to 3 a.m. daily.) has a new grilled chicken sandwich, served on hot pita bread. Not bad at all.

Subway (9 a.m. to midnight Sundays through Thursdays, 9 a.m. to 2 a.m. Fridays through Saturdays) is another industry giant, selling 6-inch sandwiches from $2.99, and foot-longs from $4.19. When one considers the made-on-the-premises hot breads, myriad fillings and the choice of sauces such as dijon horseradish, red wine vinaigrette, southwest and honey mustard, the permutations can be astronomical.

Seattle's Best Coffee (6 a.m. to 8 p.m. Sundays through Thursdays, 6 a.m. to 9 p.m. Fridays through Saturdays) sells good coffee and espresso drinks from $1.45, tea from a company called Leaves and delicious pastries, one being the chocolate horn, a crisp, sugary thing that sells for $1.50. One of the chain's most luxurious summer refreshments is a white chocolate jaramilla shake, a hefty $4.25, but worth it.