Columnist Muriel Stevens: Chefs honor their own at annual dinner

Friday, July 19, 2002 | 9:14 a.m.

Muriel Stevens' dining column appears Fridays. Her shopping and travel columns appear Wednesday. Reach her at (702) 259-4080 or muriel@lasvegassun.com.

Congratulations to Caesars Palace Executive Pastry Chef John Hui. He was named ACF 2002 Chef of the Year by The Fraternity of Executive Chefs Las Vegas at the annual dinner held at The Orleans in June.

The Orleans Executive Chef Christopher Johns and his culinary staff -- Philip Bonanno, Jesus Aguirre, Mark J. Rogers, Jose M. Antes, Tony DeAnda and Pete Sugameli -- prepared a memorable meal. The New Orleans-themed menu paid tribute to the "Always Mardi Gras" atmosphere at The Orleans.

The chef of the year is an honor bestowed on an FEC member who makes a major contribution to the organization as well as to the community. It's always a tough call. This year's nominees were Hui and restaurateur Gustav Mauler of Gustav International. Gustav International owns Spiedini and OXO at JW Marriott, Bull- Shrimp at Green Valley Ranch Station Casino and Sazio at The Orleans.

John Connolly, owner of Linco Sales, was named Associate of the Year; Lillian Lazaro was named Junior Member of the Year.

During the Cajun-style cocktail reception guests enjoyed small cups of chicken and smoked-sausage gumbo, shrimp and andouille sausage jambalaya, a variety of canapes, and a "rainbow" of fresh fruits.

Dinner included potato-wrapped Pacific salmon with a lime-ginger beurre blanc; a salad of enoki mushrooms, Belgian endive and tomato served in a footed glass; and a trio of medallions -- beef with a Merlot reduction, veal with wild mushrooms and chicken with fine herbs. With the medallions, classic potatoes Dauphine (croquettes).

Dessert was a crowd pleaser -- Peach Melba Orleans. As Chef Hui said, "Dessert is the finishing compliment to any meal. It is the final accent, and therefore the most important. It's what diners remember."

There were many nostalgic remembrances in this year's program book. Chef Ed Kane, who directs the culinary programs at Vo-Tech high school and is a longtime member of FEC, chronicled the beginning of the Fraternity of Executive Chefs. It was a different Las Vegas in 1968 when the chapter was born, he recalled.

The population was less than 100,000 and a hotel with 250 rooms was considered "quite large," he writes. Dime beer, nickel hot dogs and 40-cent breakfasts were the norm. In the off-season buffets were free.

After much networking and many meetings the Fraternity of Executive Chefs was born. "In 1977 the FEC became a chapter of the American Culinary Federation, which linked the organization to the World Association of Chefs," Kane said. Now Las Vegas had ties to international culinary events.

FEC Las Vegas continues to make contributions to our community through sponsorship of the Chefs for Kids programs and numerous other innovations to help educate and nourish at-risk children.

Kane ended his history of FEC saying, "As the Fraternity enjoys another anniversary of Chef of the Year, we can reflect on the group's humble beginning and continue to achieve its goals of fraternalism, professionalism and education."

The photo of the founding chefs was a poignant reminder of the Las Vegas that was and the chefs who led the way to making a difference not only in the kitchens of our first hotels, but in the lives of many children.

More chefs: The Fraternity of Executive Chefs has hosted a number of national American Culinary Federation conventions and will participate in the 2002 convention taking place at MGM Grand Sunday through Thursday.

Dozens of acclaimed chefs will present culinary seminars designed to rekindle a passion for cooking. Among the many chefs and presenters are Martin Yan (Techniques of the East), John Folse (The Evolution of Cajun and Creole Cuisine) and Paul Prudhomme (Culinary Magic with Paul Prudhomme).

The Culinary Institute of America will participate and so will representatives from other important culinary schools and institutes. Everything from Dutch cookery to ice carving will be covered, as well as the cuisines of Mexico, Costa Rico, Guatemala, Germany, Peru and Italy. Global Snackology -- A Plunge into Global Snacks brings snacking to a new level.

It won't be possible to cover it all, but Im going to try!

Short orders

Transitions:

Robert Kirchoff, formerly the chef at Lutece Las Vegas, has been named executive chef at Aureole at Mandalay Bay.

After barely three months The Rio has closed the Sunday Shipwrecked brunch at Buzio's.

Kerry Simon has left Prime at Bellagio and is taking a breather while he awaits final negotiations to be completed for a restaurant at Hard Rock Hotel.

Michael Mina, owner of Aqua at Bellagio and NOBHILL at MGM Grand, is doing the cooking at Aqua while Chef Mark LoRusso recovers from back surgery.

More pizza lessons at Metro Pizza: Metro Pizza at 1395 E. Tropicana continues to delight, offering two-hour pizza classes the last Tuesday of each month. To learn more about the class taking place Tuesday and for reservations, call John Arena at 736-1955.

The price ($18.95 per person) includes the seminar, a meal with wine and recipes. Bring the family and friends for this homespun cooking session.

Cafe Michele returns: Reincarnated as an American bistro, Cafe Michele (minus one L) in the Mission Center at 1350 E. Flamingo Road is hoping to recapture its former place in the culinary sun. The previous Cafe Michelle was a favorite hangout for local power brokers for 15 years before closing.

This new Cafe Michele has a publicity-shy owner, a canopied entrance, a contemporary menu that also features such classic dishes as Steak Diane and an expert maitre d', Adam Carmer, who is determined to make Cafe Michele "The new, old hangout."

Cafe Michele offers lunch 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Mondays through Fridays; dinner 5 p.m. to 3 a.m. nightly; and live entertainment Thursdays through Saturdays. Among the many features are tableside cooking and flaming dishes and desserts.

The original bar and lounge have been completely redone. The popular patio has been updated. For dinner reservations or additional information call 699-9989.

Lunch at Memphis Championship Barbecue: Good lunch deals at Memphis Championship Barbecue. Served daily from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. are such specialties as St. Louis style ribs, brisket sandwich, a king sandwich, and a lunch combo -- a choice of two meats and two sides ($9.99). All lunch meals (except the Beale Street Potato and Memphis Salad) include two sides ($5.99 to $9.50).

Happy birthday to the Burger King Whopper: Shaquille O'Neal's favorite mouthful, the Burger King Whopper recently celebrated its 45th year. New at Burger King is the Chicken Whopper and the BK Veggie Burger, the first veggie burger to be offered nationally, says Burger King.

Quote of the week: Bellagio's award-winning pastry chef Jean-Philippe Maury talking about his barely 3-month-old son, Alexandre, "He's my master showpiece." Assisting Maury with his masterpiece was Alexandre's mother, Celine.