Columnist Muriel Stevens: Wedding bells ringing at Four Seasons

Friday, Jan. 25, 2002 | 8:55 a.m.

Muriel Stevens' dining column appears Fridays. Her shopping and travel columns appear Wednesday. Reach her at (702) 259-4080 or muriel@lasvegassun.com.

Love continues to bloom at Four Seasons, one of the city's most in-demand settings for weddings. At least 20 to 30 weddings take place at Four Seasons each month. With Valentine's Day coming up that number is certain to increase.

The wedding of Dena Duboef, the daughter of Lovee Arum and Larry Duboef, to Mark Chatfield took place at the Four Seasons on Nov. 11, 2000. It was a fantasy in white with masses of glorious white flowers, spectacular appointments and a wonderful meal presented by Four Seasons Executive Chef Wolfgang Von Weiser and his staff.

Four Seasons was the also the choice for Alyson Fine, the daughter of Susan Greenspun Fine and Mark Fine, when she wed Ori Marmur on Dec. 9, 2000. Once again, the flowers were captivating, the appointments exceptional and the dinner excellent.

Each wedding was a brilliant departure from the norm, with entertainment and design elements that set it apart. Four Seasons Director of Catering and Conference Services Dawn Woodhouse worked closely with the brides, their mothers and their wedding planners, answering questions and offering suggestions.

Chef Wolfgang, a most agreeable man, produced delicious, original dishes that pleased the brides, their parents and the guests.

On Jan. 22 Dana Epstein, the daughter of Donna Epstein and Kenneth Epstein, married Dr. Ron Hofflander at Four Seasons. The bride, an executive at the Plaza hotel downtown, chose a Russian winter scene as the theme for her wedding. Russian Red (deep Burgundy) rose topiaries lined the wedding aisle. The wedding canopy, made of bent willow, was ablaze with flowers. Wedding attendants wore gowns of the same rich color.

The only thing missing was snow. The bride's bouquet was composed of deep red roses and ribbons of lush green leaves. A perfect foil for her ivory Vera Wang wedding gown.

The champagne reception that followed the ceremony featured an abundance of hors d'oeuvres and a smoked salmon station with hand-carved service reminiscent of the zakuski service at elegant Russian restaurants.

Dinner began with a savory wild mushroom risotto followed by a spinach and arugula salad with pine nuts, cranberries and shaved Parmesan. Guests had a choice of whole-grain mustard-crusted seabass or sliced tenderloin of beef. Asparagus spears, carrot batons, and celery root whipped potatoes accompanied.

The piece de resistance, a lavish dessert buffet in the adjacent room, was orchestrated by Four Seasons Pastry Chef Jean Luc Daul. An ice cream station where guests indulged in make-your-own sundaes tempted everyone. For those who could resist the allure of assorted cakes and tortes, lemon Pavlova and mini-sized creme brulees and rice puddings, fruit tartlets and chocolate eclairs, there were bowls of fresh berries and a variety of jewel-like fruits.

A scrumptious white chocolate raspberry wedding cake was a gorgeous finale.

A final note: All of the brides written about are friends who grew up together in Las Vegas. These young women have distinctly different styles that were reflected in their weddings. Thanks to their mothers, such party planners as Mindy Weiss of Beverly Hills and the ability of the Four Seasons culinary staff to come up with exclusive menus for each event, all of their wishes came true.

Ping Pang Pong a small treasure: Kevin Wu's newest venture, Ping Pang Pong at Gold Coast, is another winner for the owner of Royal Star at The Venetian. I've tasted almost the entire menu since its opening a few weeks ago and am delighted with the menu and the moderate prices.

Expect the unexpected at this small pagoda-like, open-sided restaurant in the round. Wor won ton soup, a bowl large enough for two ($4.95), was filled with shrimp, roast pork, vegetables and a different kind of pleated wonton. Two rice-paper hand rolls filled with crispy soft shell crab ($8.95) were so good I've ordered them each time I've eaten here.

Delicate tea-smoked duck, a large half ($15.95), was gently smoked and served with pancakes, hoisin sauce and shredded scallions. My friend and I had no idea the portion would be so generous. One appetizer, a rice dish and the duck would make a satisfying meal. On our next visit we ordered the Cantonese roast duck half -- same generous portion. I'm hooked on the wrinkled green beans ($8.25), long, plump, seasoned Chinese green beans that are wok-cooked over high heat.

A whole cracked crab ($19.95) is steamed over a bed of seasoned rice. The juices from the crab drip and season the rice. It takes a little work to eat this dish, but small, moist cloths are provided as needed.

There are many more live seafood offerings (market price), including steamed whole fish, lobster Macao-style and lobster and vermicelli cooked in a clay pot. It is worth noting that live seafood delivery days are Tuesdays and Fridays. Tofu dishes are healthy and wonderful, but you have to be a fan (I am) of authentic Chinese tofu dishes to appreciate the delicate and sometimes unusual flavors.

All of the traditional Chinese desserts are made at the restaurant. On two occasions we were there when the sesame buns and the small custard tarts had just been baked. The custard tart with its delicate custard and flaky crust is terrific; the plump sesame buns every bit as good.

Plan to dine early before the rush that comes after 7 p.m. No matter what time you dine at Ping Pang Pong the service will be caring and the food delightful. Manager Karrie will be happy to explain any of dishes. Ping Pang Pong's menu is a good mix of familiar Chinese fare and Wu-created dishes.

Ping Pang Pong is open daily for dinner only.

Short orders

Luau nights at the Palms: Every Wednesday in February Fantasy Market buffet at the Palms will present a Luau seafood dinner ($15.99). Among the many Hawaiian and seafood specialties are: steamed clams and crab legs, raw oysters and little neck clams, assorted sushi, lomi lomi salmon, a variety of fish dishes, poi (an acquired taste), teriyaki chicken and beef, oxtail stew, beef and chicken curries, mahi mahi, island-inspired desserts and more. Buffet dinner hours are 4-10 p.m.

More Hawaii: Cheeseburger at the Oasis, a spinoff of Hawaii's noted Cheeseburger in Paradise, opened today at Desert Passage at Aladdin in the Lost City section. A little bit more than hamburgers is offered -- try the coconut shrimp and the from-scratch smoothies and drinks. Hours are 10 a.m.-11 p.m Sunday through Thursday; 10 a.m.-midnight Saturday and Sunday.