Columnist Muriel Stevens: Pearl is a jewel in MGM Grand’s crown

Friday, Feb. 22, 2002 | 8:49 a.m.

Muriel Stevens' dining column appears Fridays. Her shopping and travel columns appear Wednesday. Reach her at (702) 259-4080 or muriel@lasvegassun.com.

As rare as its namesake, Pearl Chinese restaurant at MGM Grand is a sublime, authentic take on classic Cantonese cuisine. "Make no mistake, Pearl is not fusion, merged or blended Chinese fare," Tobias F. Mattstedt, MGM Grand vice president of food & beverage, said.

"Pearl is not just the visual elements, it's a tying together of all concepts of modern China," Mattstedt continued. "All of the design elements are reflected in the food, but with a modern approach to Cantonese cooking. It's not the usual, there's a bit of fun in the dishes. It is not fusion or East meets West. There are tastes of Shanghai and Hong Kong."

Having experienced the food at Pearl on two occasions I understand Mattstedt's passion for this splendid dining room. The design by New York architect and designer Tony Chi (who also designed Michael Mina's NOBHILL) is smashing. Entering the main dining room is akin to being embraced by a beautiful friend.

The main dining room seats 160, yet is intimate and serene. Credit the soft lighting, a Chi signature, for part of the effect. The Chi-designed booths are tall, providing privacy and a full view of the dining room.

In the rear of the dining room is a handsome wood-and-glass wine cellar. Guests may dine at any of the tables in front of the handsome wine wall. These tables are always in demand.

There are two private dining rooms. One is a breathtaking beauty with a massive round table, an exquisite expanse that can seat more than 20. It can be seen from the window facing Studio Walk and catches the attention of everyone who passes by. With its shimmering silver top, it is the most beautiful table I've ever seen.

Many of the kitchen's specialties come from the live fish and seafood tanks. These pricey denizens of the deep can be prepared in a variety of styles -- diners choice.

Pearl Executive Chef Kai-Wai Yau, who produces the exceptional food, began his culinary training at age 16 as a part-time kitchen staff member in his family's restaurant. With his innate talent and love of cooking he was later able to work in a number of fine Chinese restaurants in California. Yau was one of the "first-wave chefs" to move from Asia to Las Vegas in 1988. Among his credits: he trained the chefs for the upscale Empress Court that featured white-glove service.

Later Yau became the chef de cuisine at Dragon Court at MGM Grand. During the construction of Pearl he returned to China (Taipei and Hong Kong) with Executive Chef Kim Canteenwalla and F&B Director Tony Angotti, to research the type of food he would be preparing at Pearl.

During his time in China Yau worked in the kitchens of the grand Peninsula hotel in Hong Kong and the Grand Hyatt in Taipei. At the same time Agnotti was seeking the original accessories and serving pieces, such as the sleek dim sum servers, that distinguish Pearl.

Acting as the guide and China expert was Pearl restaurant manager Chiachi Kuo, a UNLV hotel school graduate who met the group in Taipei.

Both a la carte and family style dinners ($38, $48 and $68) are featured on Pearl's extensive carte. A tasting menu ($78 per person) includes Oregon Kobe beef and abalone carpaccio, shark fin spring roll and pigeon cannelloni, stone crab claw and chilled drunken chicken, double chicken essence with seafood dumpling, wok-fried beef tenderloin and steamed live garlic prawns, glutinous rice with Chinese sausage wrapped in a lotus leaf, stir-fried vegetables with fresh water chestnuts and a selection of French pastries.

At one meal my dining companion gave the chef free rein. Our dinner was an excellent blend of flavors, textures and food combinations.

Dim sum to begin, followed by Dungeness crab and sweet corn soup, a glorious mix with a generous amount of crab meat ($8). An appetizer of deep-fried shiitake mushrooms ($8) prepared with spicy black vinegar, Shanghainese-style, kept us guessing. Prepared Chef Laus' way the shiitake became an exotic stranger that immediately gained our affection with its rich flavor and reduced-vinegar glaze.

The pure flavor of poached soya-infused chicken atop crusty rice ($18), served room temperature, was almost a letdown after the intense flavor of the shiitake. But after a few sips of wine to cleanse the palate the appeal of this delicate classic Cantonese dish came through.

Stir-fried Chinese green beans ($9) prepared with spicy XO sauce (seafood and flavorings in chili oil) was another attention getter. The boldness of the XO was a fine counterpoint to the crisp beans. We also enjoyed the lotus leaf-wrapped rice and sausage and crisp salt and pepper squid ($19), one of my favorite mollusks. Low in calories and highly nutritious, the fragrant squid was a fine choice.

Throughout our dinner we were served a variety of special teas. The tea selection is described in a charming small pamphlet. A warmer on the table kept the teapot hot. Our expert tea butler kept us well-informed as to what we were drinking. The art of tea is a serious subject at Pearl. During an intense training period for the staff, a San Francisco Asian tea authority provided classes in the fine art of tea. It was obvious that our tea butler had learned his lessons well. As a constant tea drinker I appreciated the service, the delightful tea selection and the information imparted.

Our dessert was a sampler plate that included a small baba au rum, a delectable tarte de citron and a chocolate creme brulee. We also tasted small portions of the house-made sorbets served with berries and melon. Pastry Chef Carlos Salazar has a large repertoire of luscious desserts.

The wine pairings were excellent. I fully intended to share with you the wines that complemented each course, but wine pairing depends on the foods ordered, so it's best to have Pearl Sommelier Andrea Herron and her staff assist. Pearl has a small, but well-chosen wine list and a selection of wines by the glass ($7-$13).

There is much pleasure in a meal at Pearl. Be it as extravagant as was our meal or as simple as appetizers and dessert the service and quality remain the same. Dinner service nightly, 5:30-11 p.m. Reservation number: 891-7380.

Short orders

Wine dinners at OXO and BullShrimp: Restaurateur Gustav Mauler is playing East Side/West Side with winners at OXO at J.W.Marriott, Summerlin (formerly the Regent Las Vegas) and his hot new property, BullShrimp at Green Valley Ranch Station Casino. BullShrimp's Winemaker dinner, on Wednesday, will feature Ferrari Carano California wines. OXO's dinner, on Thursday, will showcase Penfolds Winery from Australia. These monthly six-course wine pairing dinners ($65 per person) are very popular. Price does not include tax or tip. Reservations are requested. BullShrimp reservation number: 942-4110. OXO number: 869-8500.

Cryptic invite from M&M's: Since the sugar shell that surrounds the chocolate core of an M&M isn't flavored, it really doesn't make a difference to most of us what color candy we pop into our maws, but it does make a good marketing ploy for the candy company. So here's the deal: If you're an M&M's fan who likes Nascar racer Ken Schrader, who drives M&M's race car and who also likes beauty queens such as Denise M. Quinones, Miss Universe 2001, here's an opportunity to meet both -- March 1 at M&M's World in Showcase mall on the Strip next to MGM Grand -- and to cast a vote for a new M&M color.

A replica of Schrader's car has been redecorated and dubbed "Global Color Vote Car." Said car will be unveiled at the event. There will be an autograph session, free posters and photo ops for all who attend. Show up at M&M's World, 6-8 p.m. One final question: Does anyone ever pass up an M&M because they don't like the color?

Santa Fe Station fund-raiser: Santa Fe Station will donate all beverage revenue collected today in the Lizard Lounge between 7-11 p.m. Funds raised will help pay some of the enormous medical expenses confronting the family of Michael Foley, the 11-year-old who was mauled recently by four Great Danes. The sixth-grader is faced with several more skin grafts as well as rehabilitation. Michael's mother, Las Vegas entertainer Denise Clemente, is performing in the lounge. Donations will also be taken at the door during Clemente's show.10"Pearl is not just the visual elements, it's a tying together of all concepts of modern China."

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