Columnist Muriel Stevens: ESPNZone hits a home run for comfort food

Friday, Feb. 8, 2002 | 9:45 a.m.

Muriel Stevens' dining column appears Fridays. Her shopping and travel columns appear Wednesday. Reach her at (702) 259-4080 or muriel@lasvegassun.com.

Pigging out at ESPNZone at New York-New York is not something I normally do, but friends kept telling me I was missing the best kind of comfort food. They also reminded me that I should go hungry, that portions were enormous. Right on all counts.

Let's face it, the food served in sports bars is known not for quality, but for quantity, and the food is rarely made from scratch. ESPNZone is a delicious exception.

Nothing remains to indicate the previous occupant, Motown Cafe, was ever there. Owned by the Walt Disney Company, the first ESPNZone opened in 1996. Each Zone is designed to be "the ultimate sports-themed dining experience in metropolitan markets in the U.S. and abroad."

I'm no expert on sports bars, but ESPNZone is terrific for non-sports fans, too. The Studio Grill where I dined features American grill food and is decorated with sports-themed artwork. Booths have table-attached TV monitors. The separate Screening Room is a sports fan's dream with state-of-the-art technology that allows multigame viewing, direct audio control for all televised games and other electronic features. Food service is here, too.

There's much more: private dining rooms, all wired for viewing; a huge sports arcade, and a Sports Center Studio Store jam-packed with official ESPN and ESPNZone merchandise.

But it's as much the food as the sports that is bringing in the crowds. My odyssey began with a singular corn chowder (the soup of the day, $4.99) with wedges of roasted potatoes and a topping of roasted parched corn.

My tasting was an introduction to Chef Ken Krampert's favorite dishes. Who knew he had so many? An order of Zone nachos arrived straight from the oven in a cast-iron baking dish filled from the bottom to the brim with tri-colored tortilla chips with a spicy queso sauce, melted pepper Jack cheese, smoked bacon and sour cream. It could easily serve three to four ($9.99). As many as 220 nachos are ordered on a Saturday night.

Next, a creamy spinach and artichoke dip and the house-fried chips ($8.29). A chicken-tender salad ($11.29) -- panko-crusted chicken tenders atop a mountain of mixed greens with avocado, tomato, grated cheddar cheese and bacon had been tossed with peppercorn ranch dressing and drizzled with Zone's own barbecue ketchup.

It was quite a sight, and delicious.

My dining buddy and I also tasted the apple, walnut, raisin and blue cheese salad, another tasty mix, but it paled by comparison to the zesty chicken-tender salad. We should have tasted this more delicate salad first.

By this time we were barely making a dent in the beautifully presented dishes, and there was still more to come. Very spicy and very good was the Cajun fettuccine with blackened chicken and sauteed andouille sausage in a spicy Creole sauce ($11.79). Under the spicy topping was perfectly al dente pasta.

A 2-pound slab of slow-roasted baby back ribs double-basted with the house special barbecue sauce ($19.99) and the two center-cut grilled pork chops ($16.99) marinated in a slightly sweet bourbon-maple glaze were so good. All entrees include a seasonal vegetable and a beautiful baked potato.

With the moderately zesty fare we drank tall glasses of homemade lemonade ($2.79). I wanted to skip dessert, but it was on its way before I could say "uncle." My favorite? The chocolate-chip cookie sundae ($6.49) baked and served in a cast-iron skillet.

The cookie, baked just long enough to leave the center soft and slightly gooey, covers the bottom of the pan. Two large scoops of Haagen Dazs vanilla ice cream are sandwiched with a hearty portion of whipped cream and topped with hot fudge and caramel sauces and the obligatory cherry. The cookie remains warm until the last bite. What a wicked, wonderful treat.

A Krispy Kreme doughnut sundae, three glazed doughnuts topped with hot fudge and caramel sauces and served with sliced strawberries and ice cream on the side, arrived too late to be appreciated. By now our sated palates were satisfied beyond reason, so I'll have just have to return for some additional research.

The leftovers I carried home lasted three days. The baked potatoes were reheated briefly in the microwave so that they retained their wonderful mealy texture.

All of the Zone's food is made from scratch. Salad dressings are made fresh daily. As Chef Ken said, "We serve simple items, but we put a lot of effort into each dish so, whatever you order, you can't go wrong."

ESPNZone does not accept reservations, except for the party rooms. Breakfast is served Saturday and Sunday, 9-11 a.m. ESPNZone opens at 11 a.m. weekdays. Closing hours vary. Call 933-3776 for information about the special programs offered weekly.

Short orders

New version of ewinebook at Aureole: The latest version of the ewinebook created by Aureole Wine Director Andrew Bradberry is up and running. This completely Internet-based wine list is available on line for patrons to browse or reserve their wines in advance -- ewinetower.com.

New features include online surveys, guests may request the electronic wine newsletter via email -- service begins in April, and view step-by-step Aureole recipes. Also featured, monthly wineries, and wines of the month featured in local wine stores. Armed with a printout everyone can become an instant wine maven.

To receive Aureole's lists and notices send your email address to: info@ewinetower.com. Andrew anticipates having a list of 5,000 email corespondents by year's end.

More Valentine's Day dining:

Fleming's Prime Steakhouse and Wine Bar will offer fine champagnes by the glass Thursday through Feb. 17. Veuve Cliquot ($17 per glass) and Dom Perignon ($35 per glass) are among those featured. Of course, the regular wine by the glass program will be available. Dinner served nightly. Reservation number: 838-4774.

Roy Yamaguchi's Roy's offers romantic Asian fare along with a wine selection "chosen strictly by textural harmony with the restaurant's food." Translation, the wines complement the savory dishes. Reservation number: 838-3620.

Sammy's Woodfired Pizza offers Sweetheart Dinner for Two: A crusty pizza, a jug of wine and thou. No. Better than that. Sammy's Valentine's Day Dinner for Two ($60 per couple) includes garlic cheese bread, house salad and a choice of of Norwegian salmon, roast duck, shrimp and angel hair pasta or petite filet mignon and a signature Messy Sundae and champagne. Reservations are suggested. Call any of the Sammy's locations.

Mount Charleston Lodge is offering a Valentine package through Feb. 17 that includes dinner for two, Godiva chocolates, and a red rose upon the pillow of the bed in your cozy log cabin (call for rates). Dinner is only $70 person and does not include tax or tip. For more information call 872-5408.

Checkout the Valentine's Day Gift With Purchase at the Canal Shoppes at the Venetian. Through Valentine's Day exchange $250 or more same day receipts from mall restaurants or shops for a $50 gift certificate that can be applied to a couples side-by-side massage at Canyon Ranch Spa Club at the Venetian.

Now that's romantic togetherness.