Local eateries breaking out of chain mentality

Max Jacobson

Wednesday, Feb. 6, 2002 | 8:25 a.m.

When most of us think about chain restaurants, we think about fast food, burgers and kids. That's a limited view, it turns out.

Las Vegas has a growing number and wide variety of upscale chains highlighted by sophisticated, often surprisingly high-quality fare. The range is impressive at these places, the portions usually trencherman, and the prices generally such that most people can afford them, at least once in a while. The following are a few examples:

Cozymel's Coastal Mexican Grill, 355 Hughes Center Drive: The best reason for beginning with this upbeat Mexican restaurant is that the Las Vegas outlet serves as the benchmark for the other 14 restaurants in the chain. General Manager Mike Donovan says it was "designed to look like a coastal hacienda." It's an attractive place, too, with lots of antique wood, stonework and fossilized sea shells embedded in the walls.

The chain is owned by industry giant Brinker International (Chili's, Macaroni Grill), and the first thing one gets as he or she walks through the door is a whiff of fresh tortillas being made on the comal, a traditional Mexican griddle. Fresh seafood is the specialty here; a huge display of fish sits in a glass case by the open kitchen.

Just a few of the dishes worth ordering here include paella, shrimp, scallops, mussels, calamari and chicken in an iron pan scented with saffron, grilled salmon with langostino and black beans, and Chilean sea bass steamed in a banana leaf.

Despite the luxurious sound of these items, Cozymel's keeps the prices within most people's range. Donovan says lunch averages under $10 per person and dinner comes in at around $15.

The Cheesecake Factory, Forum Shops at Caesars: There are more than 51 of these huge, wildly successful restaurants, from a concept begun by Oscar and Evelyn Overton in 1972, in Beverly Hills, Calif. Consistency is a large part of the chain's success. The menu is exactly the same at every location.

The clientele differs, however. The Cheesecake Factory in Las Vegas deals largely with tourists, who spend around $12 per person at lunch, and $17 at dinner -- a bit less than at other locations, according to an employee (who wished to remain anonymous).

One big seller is the turkey club sandwich for $8.95, a humongous thing that two can easily share. Cajun jambalaya, Thai lettuce wrap and the chain's signature avocado egg roll are just three of the more popular items here.

Let's not forget the cheesecake. There are 34 varieties, ranging from the modest plain, at around 630 calories, to a whopping 1,140 calories for a slice of the chocolate peanut butter cookie dough cheesecake. The cheesecake is delicious, but the payback is a bear.

T.G.I. Friday's, several locations: T.G.I. Friday's is one of the biggest roadhouse-style chains in the country, with 273 locations and plans under way for more.

It's a festive-looking place, with red-and-white striped tables and rough wooden walls with lots of neon beer signs on them. Friday's aims to be fun and generally, it succeeds.

The menu is huge and constantly changing. Just a few of the newer items include 100 percent Angus beef burgers, the meatloaf stack, also made from Angus beef, orange chicken and an excellent, full-flavored vanilla bean cheesecake.

Some of the more popular signature items are a nine-layer dip, a refried bean dip layered with sour cream, guacamole, olives and more, and the Jack Daniels Trio, featuring baby back ribs, chicken and fried shrimp served with a bourbon-flavored dipping sauce.

The menu ranges from $4.95-$15.95, and there is a special menu of lunch deals, with everything priced around $5.

Claim Jumper, 1100 S. Fort Apache Road: Near the corner of West Charleston Boulevard and Fort Apache Road, there are chain restaurants to burn: P.F. Chang's, Mimi's Cafe, two high-priced imports, Roy's and Fleming's Steak House, and this branch of a California-based dinner house.

The local Claim Jumper is one of only two in Nevada, the other being in Reno. But it does a land-office business, so prepare yourself for a wait if you plan to dine during peak hours. Claim Jumper, similar to most chains, has a no-reservations policy.

The only difference between this Claim Jumper and most of the outlets in California is that there is no salad bar. The design is that of a rustic hunting lodge, with Tiffany lamps and other attractive features.

Portions are especially immense -- something to keep in mind if one tends to grouse about prices here being a bit higher than other chains. The Ore Cart ($23.95), for instance, is a massive plate of chicken and two types of ribs -- enough to serve four. Prime rib, when available, comes in a heart-stopping 24-ounce cut.

Among a few don't-miss dishes are cheese potato cakes, fire-roasted artichokes and a great grilled Cobb sandwich.

Mimi's Cafe, 1121 S. Fort Apache Road: Across the street from Claim Jumper, is this pleasant French-country house, a lively place filled with posters, French objets d'art and a happy crowd at all three mealtimes. This is one of the few upscale chains that serves breakfast, lunch and dinner, and the room always seems full, no matter what time of day you come.

Perhaps that is because this chain has a very low price point. The most expensive item on the dinner menu is a rib eye steak at $12.95, and it's a complete dinner, to boot.

There are more than 50 Mimi's Cafe outlets, each of them exactly the same, and the average person spends around $8 on a meal here.

Soups are a big seller: French onion, corn chowder and a variety of homey soups that change daily are available, each one served with a giant muffin. The stuffed French toast is one of the specialties at breakfast, and dinners include hearty fare such as pot roast, pork loin and Cajun jambalaya. The chain publishes a few of its popular recipes at its website, mimiscafe.com.