Columnist Muriel Stevens: Bootlegger Bistro still a shoo-in for fun, food

Friday, Aug. 9, 2002 | 8:46 a.m.

Vintage Vegas, entertainment and all, is alive and well at the Bootlegger Bistro. And what fun it is.

The combination of family style Italian cooking and lounge-style spontaneous entertainment is a super way to spend an evening. Even for someone like me, who long ago gave up late night dining and night life.

With me was Jim Proser, son of the late night club impresario, Monte Proser, who owned the famed Copacabana in New York City. Jim is writing a book about the life and times of his father, and what better place to go to gather material than the Bootlegger Bistro? Monte was a presence in Las Vegas, too, producing shows at the Tropicana and the Thunderbird.

Friday and Saturday nights feature "Off the Cuff" performances with Sonny King and Blackie Hunt and many guest artists, old and new.

Open 24/7, the Bootlegger offers breakfast 11 a.m. to 11 p.m.; lunch 11 a.m. to 3 p.m.; dinner 3 p.m. to whenever; late night specials and more.

The Perri family (Blackie is married to Lt. Gov. Lorraine Hunt) has been dishing up delicious Italian food since 1949 (check out the family photos on the walls). Faithful diners have followed the family (and Maria's cooking) from location to location. It is now at 7700 Las Vegas Blvd. South at Robindale.

American and Italian breakfast dishes are offered from 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. The Gold Club late night specials (reduced prices) are available 11 p.m. to 6 a.m. Featured at lunch are appetizers, salads, sandwiches, pasta and many specials, all reasonably priced. Fish and seafood, pasta and Italian specialties, chicken and a variety of meats, pizzas and calzones are featured at dinner.

There are nightly specials. The one I chose, calamari steak, was tender and sweet and generously portioned -- the squid hood covered my dinner plate. It was terrific. All entrees are served with Maria's panetti bread (warm squares of homemade bread served with a rich tomato dipping sauce), pasta of the day or potato and seasonal vegetables.

Our reservation was for 8 p.m. The show starts at approximately 9:30 p.m. Our timing was perfect. I wish I could remember all of the players, but I was too busy laughing to keep track. Sonny and Blackie play off each other with humor and skill. Sonny was in great voice; I'd forgotten what a fine musician Blackie is. Always the straight man, he's at his best when he's playing one of the many instruments he's adapted -- what sweet sounds he gets from the harmonica-sized "piano."

Musical backup and kibitzing by such talents as Tommy Deering on piano and Gus Mancuso on bass was another delicious feature. Lezlie Anders did a sensational song from her upcoming show, "Fever," a tribute to Peggy Lee (hubby Buddy Greco was away). Veteran funny man Bernie Allen threw a few Copacabana stories Jim's way in between the jokes. Enjoying along with the rest of us was Peggy King, Sonny's wife.

There's more -- jazz on Mondays, and on Wednesdays and Thursdays Tommy Deering plays from 7 to 11 p.m.

The Bootlegger Bistro isn't the only thing that's vintage Vegas. I arrived home well after 1 a.m. just like I used to do.

Short orders

Wine tasting for Nathan Adelson Hospice: The Nathan Adelson Hospice Golden Monarch Council will host its third annual wine tasting Aug. 22 (5:30 p.m. to 8 p.m.) at Gaudin Jaguar/Porsche, 7200 W. Sahara Ave. Tickets are $35 per person. All monies raised go directly to NAH to support terminally ill patients who receive compassionate care, regardless of ability to pay. A new program, Silk Butterflies, is an outreach program offering supportive services to terminally ill children and their families. For tickets to the wine tasting call 733-0320.

Old Time Reunion Party: Longtime Las Vegans will gather at the Stardust for the 7th Annual Old Time Reunion Party on Sept. 29. Tickets are still $35 per person. Included are cocktails, dinner (a choice of prime rib or chicken) and entertainment. For reservations or more info call Ken or Carolyne at 382-6336.

Buffet opens at Rampart Casino: Rampart Casino at The Resort at Summerlin has opened for lunch and dinner. Menus will change daily and will include Asian, American and Italian stations, plus four special buffet meals: Sunday champagne brunch, prime rib night, T-bone steak night and a Friday seafood buffet. Pizzas are cooked in a wood-burning oven; poultry and meats are cooked on a rotisserie. Additional restaurants will open shortly.

Palio Pronto at Bellagio: Palio Pronto, an offshoot of Bellagio's stylish Palio espresso cafe, will open at the Las Vegas Boulevard Bellagio entrance (lower level) on Aug. 12. Featured are coffees; a variety of espressos; iced beverages, including Italian sodas and granitas in a Bellagio souvenir cup; domestic and imported beers; gelati and a small menu of sandwiches.

Wine dinners

Paris Las Vegas Les Artistes Steakhouse and Georges Duboef (Monsieur Beaujolais) will present dinner and the wines of Georges Duboef on Aug. 16. The all-inclusive dinner ($95) features a reception, four-course dinner and wines. The entree is a grilled beef filet with a Gamay and morel sauce. Following dinner Duboef will be signing bottles of the featured wines at La Cave wine cellar where they can be purchased. For reservations: 967-7999.

A Raymond Winery dinner at New York-New York's Gallagher's steakhouse Aug. 21 will be $99 per person. Included are a reception with a large variety of appetizers, a four-course dinner and dessert. The entree is a duo of hickory-smoked New York sirloin and stuffed rock lobster tail. Seating is limited. For reservations: 740-6450.

Charlie Palmer Steak and The Verandah at Four Seasons will join forces to present A Taste of Jazz, an evening of progressive dining and dancing, Aug. 22. A cocktail reception will take place at the Four Seasons, dinner at Charlie Palmer Steak and a scrumptious dessert finale at Four Seasons. The entree: a choice of crisp salmon with lobster or seared beef filet with wild mushrooms.

Music throughout and other innovations costs $125 per person, all-inclusive. For reservations: 632-5120. A portion of the evening's proceeds will benefit the University of Nevada, Las Vegas Cancer Research Fund.