Columnist Muriel Stevens: Wu family strengthens Las Vegas ties

Friday, April 19, 2002 | 8:38 a.m.

Muriel Stevens' dining column appears Fridays. Her shopping and travel columns appear Wednesday. Reach her at (702) 259-4080 or muriel@lasvegassun.com.

Restaurateur Kevin Wu recently honored his mother and father, Ming Wing and Chien Hsiung Wu, at a private dinner at his Royal Star restaurant at The Venetian. Joining the Wus were a small group of Las Vegas friends. Although the Wu family still lives in California, they have developed an extended family in Las Vegas.

This special dinner included dishes not on Royal Star's menu, but Royal Star Manager Tom Chan, with advance notice, might be able to duplicate some of the exceptional fare. Of course, Kevin Wu, who created and personally cooked the dinner, might not be in the kitchen. The peripatetic Wu is always on the go.

Wu's parents speak some English and only one of the non-Chinese guests spoke Chinese, yet we had a wonderful time and even managed to converse in our own way.

What an exotic and flavorful meal it was. Lobster Yue Z'nen, carpaccio of Pacific lobster with a julienne of daikon radish and pickled pear onions was laced with a savory honey-horseradish dressing (memo to myself -- must wheedle that recipe from Kevin); Pei Par Squab, so pink, so tender and crisp, was slow-roasted and basted with a five wine ginger marinade.

Could it get any better than this? Yes.

Slightly chunky baby-green pea soup was enhanced with pieces of fresh cuttlefish. Conversation stopped as we sipped the delicate soup. Next, warm snow crab terrine with mixed purple rice relish was another coup for Chef Wu.

Only minutes before, the snow crab had been taken from the live tank that offers a seemingly endless variety of live fish and shellfish.

There was more. Oregon Kobe tenderloin, complemented with papaya slices and a bitter melon sauce. Oregon Kobe beef is a safe replacement for Japanese Kobe beef. Thick, rolled slices of tofu were stuffed with snow pea leaves. This light, delicate vegetarian dish was so enjoyable.

Hor Tien Bowl -- a soup made of egg whites steamed until firm. Similar to the Japanese steamed soup, shuwan mushi, Wu's creation included baby clams and jumbo prawns. Since this was a celebration of Wu's parents it was only fitting that our dinner would end with a symbolic dish -- Six Fortune Clay Pot.

And the dish was served according to our individual tastes. I opted out for the thorny sea cucumber (sea slug), but enjoyed the abalone, braised scallops, fish maw, stewed goose feet, Long Life noodles and the richly flavored broth.

A soup of chilled bird's nest, fresh coconut and aromatic melon puree was a satisfying finale. Throughout dinner we consumed never-ending pots of fragrant tea. With wine glasses high we toasted our host, his parents and the good fortune of sharing such a convivial dinner.

Culture and food on a Sunday afternoon: Gallery P in Henderson was a perfect setting for a musical afternoon, with munchies, hosted by gallery owners Lotty and Jerry Polis and Gallery P Director Joe Palermo. The Polis scions, David and Eric, brought their own coterie of friends.

Comfy seating, a view of the art, piano and harp selections by award-winning harpists, Caryn Gott and Michelle Gott, made for a swell afternoon. Add food by Rainbow Catering, one of Las Vegas' first important catering companies, and you've got the makings for a delicious event.

Rainbow Catering owners Tom Gehringer, Ed Baba and Sherry Burnett have been catering for Las Vegas Old Guard families for 24-years. It was a bold move when they left secure jobs to form their catering company, but they knew what their clients liked to eat and they were willing to travel to get to wherever the party was. Long before home catering was cool, this trio was the coolest.

They still know what makes people happy. Sitting among friends I hadn't seen in a while, watching them devour the international assortment of hors d'oeuvres set on each table was like old times.

There was a break in the entertainment for the buffet dinner -- cooked-to-order scampi, pasta, assorted vegetables, carved filet and herb-crusted lamb chops, all cooked without a kitchen. Rainbow has the ability to cook on a mountain top or outside an art gallery. Never ruffled, they quietly do what they do so well -- please their clients. They never missed a beat as I followed them around.

A dessert buffet included a galaxy of fresh berries and chocolate covered strawberries placed among the large array of miniature pastries, no doubt, to give the illusion that eating berries would balance all of the dessert-heaped plates being carried to the tables. A sweet deception.

Of course, everyone walked the gallery areas. Gallery P is open to the public, but does not have regular gallery hours, so call before going -- 568-5429.

Ruth's Chris founder loses cancer battle: Ruth Fertel became a steakhouse owner through necessity. Newly divorced, with two kids to support, she mortgaged her home to buy the Chris steakhouse in New Orleans. Chris' was one of those restaurants that was always for sale. The owner would get a sizeable down payment from a green buyer who didn't have clue about running a restaurant. When the buyer went bust, the restaurant was again for sale.

Fertel didn't know anything about restaurants, but she was a quick study with good business sense and a drive to succeed. This was one time the deal stuck. Just in case you've ever wondered about the unusual name, that's how it came about. Ruth related this story over dinner one night when she was still trying to decide if Las Vegas needed a Ruth's Chris. She was impressed with Marcel Taylor, who wanted the Las Vegas outlet but worried that a town that (in those days) gave everything away would not have a market for a high-end steakhouse.

Taylor was persuasive and charming and Fertel loved Las Vegas. It was a good marriage with mutual respect and friendship.

The statement after her passing from Steven C. Anderson, president and chief executive officer of the National Restaurant Association, included this: "Ruth Fertel's legendary work ethic and innovative ideas embodied the quintessential values and entrepreneurial spirit of the restaurant industry. Ruth's golden rule was that she treated her customers and associates as she wanted to be treated. Her contribution to the industry is immeasurable and she will be sorely missed by all of us."

Short orders

John Mariani names Bally's Best Steakhouse: Bally's Steakhouse has been named the Best Steakhouse in Las Vegas. John Mariani, writing in the May issue of Town & Country (on newstands Tuesday), includes Bally's as one of America's Ten Best Steak Houses.

Taste of Henderson: Lake Las Vegas MiraLago Executive Chef Roland August will participate in Henderson's Taste of Henderson, part of the community's Heritage Days, Saturday, 11 a.m.-8 p.m. at Morrell Park. A chili cook-off will take place Sunday at Timet Park. August will offer samplings of a MiraLago signature dish, Chardonnay Chicken Melrose with portabello mushrooms. Chef Roland will also prepare a chocolate creme brulee. More than 20 local restaurants and vendors will offer food samples and beverages for $1 per taste. Check with the Henderson Chamber of Commerce for additional info.

Brewfest at Barley's: Barley's Casino & Brewing Co. will offer its annual Barley's Brewfest April 27. Microbreweries from around the valley, including Gordon Biersch Brewery, Monte Carlo Hotel & Casino Brew Pub, the Chicago Brewing Co. and the Tenaya Creek Brewery, will participate. Tickets for the outdoor event are $15. Guests must be 21 or older. Entertainment and food. For more info call 458-2739.

Pizza lessons at Metro Pizza: Pizza tossing, anyone? April 30, at 6:30 p.m., learn from third-generation pizza makers (and cousins) Sam Facchini and John Arena the satisfying art of pizza. Included are the history of pizza in the U.S., dough prep, hearth baking and pairing wine with pizza. Price of the two-hour seminar is $18.95. Included are the lesson, recipes, Italian wine tasting and dinner. Reservations required. Call John at 736-1955.

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