Columnist Muriel Stevens: Ushering in new Neimans’ restaurants no small feat

Friday, April 12, 2002 | 9:43 a.m.

Muriel Stevens' dining column appears Fridays. Her shopping and travel columns appear Wednesday. Reach her at (702) 259-4080 or muriel@lasvegassun.com.

An intimate tasting dinner at Neiman Marcus at Fashion Show mall for Platinum InCircle members introduced guests to Executive Chef Jacques von Staton, who is already at work equipping the two restaurants (no names, yet) opening at the store in September. One restaurant will showcase fine dining. A bistro-style eatery will offer casual dining. Both restaurants will face the Strip; the bistro will have an added attraction -- patio dining.

The captivating InCircle event was hosted by Neiman Marcus Vice President and General Manager Terri Mansour. NM's design staff performed their usual magic, turning a yet-to-be-completed portion of the accessory department into an appealing al fresco setting for dining.

The entire area was draped in white. One long table in the center of the room was covered with white cloths. Down the center was a bounty of flower pots filled with real and faux greenery sitting on a runner of ribbon. The centers of fresh artichokes had been removed to accommodate slender votive candles that cast a warm glow on the table and the diners. It was another coup for the design department, the best illusionists outside of Sigfried and Roy.

It wasn't likely that a kitchen had been completed since my last visit a week ago. Could the intrepid Chef Jacques and his culinary staff do the impossible, cook without a kitchen? Of course. The chef has mastered a number of ethnic cuisines as well as the classics and has learned to create culinary masterpieces under any conditions. I'd seen him in action before and he'd always come through.

The first sign of the chef's ability was the presentation of the hors d'oeuvres during the cocktail hour: picture-perfect trays of sushi and sashimi rolls, Thai vegetable spring rolls were served with coconut curry sauce, smoked salmon tartare with osetra caviar atop thin triangles of dark bread and sauteed rock shrimp with black truffle.

Martinis and champagne were passed and the party was on.

"Where's the kitchen?" I asked. "There isn't one," our host said. "How is he cooking?" "He has refrigerator and a makeshift stove." Unbelievable, but true. Working under the most challenging conditions, Chef Jacques cooked and served a wonderful dinner.

A salad of chilled micro-greens and asparagus tips was dressed with truffled vinaigrette and topped with a freshly cooked, shelled lobster claw and a generous portion of lobster meat, still warm. While we were enjoying the hors d'oeuvres the lobsters were being cooked. They then had to be cracked and shelled.

Roasted loin of lamb and an herb-crusted loin chop were accompanied with a savory fricassee of morels and brilliant green fava beans and sauced with a Cabernet reduction.

Dessert was splendid. Each individual chocolate fondant cake on a pool of raspberry sauce had a secret. Inside the delicious cake were fragrant raspberries. Their delicate scent and distinctive flavor drenched every bite.

Serving 30 diners at one time is a coup under any circumstances, it was a miracle under the conditions Chef Jacques had to overcome. Just imagine what he'll do when he has a kitchen.

Ni9e Steakhouse at the Palms: It was a pleasant surprise to dine at Ni9e and to see how far the restaurant has come since the opening. I dined there recently with a visiting friend who is a steak-and-potato type and thoroughly enjoyed the experience.

Our order -- one filet mignon ($32), one bone-in ribeye ($34), one order of spinach sauteed with garlic ($8) and one order of steak fries ($7) -- was cooked exactly as ordered. We both wanted the meat cooked rare, but warm. The kitchen listened. The 12-ounce filet appeared to be larger; the $24-ounce ribeye was quite a slab of beef. There were enough fries for two more diners. We had to restrain ourselves from devouring all of the crispy, hot spuds. They had arrived straight from the frier to our table. The sauteed spinach beats the creamed spinach by a mile.

Good service, too. Only one complaint: My teacup was larger than the pot of water. It didn't make one cup. A second pot of water was rapidly dispatched as soon as I mentioned the shortage. A better solution -- get larger teapots (and a selection of teas).

Ni9e's dining room is so cool. Men love this place. My friend was impressed with the televisions in the men's room. I wondered why he was gone so long.

Short orders

More Ni9e: Ni9e owners do more than steak. They oversee Rain, ghostbar and the just-opened Skin, a poolside casual eatery that's open to the public. Breakfast specialties, starters (including the Ni9e steak fries), salads and sandwiches are served. Moderate prices -- steak fries at Skin are $5.

Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf adds fifth location: The Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf store opening tomorrow at 7291 W. Lake Mead Blvd. in Summerlin will celebrate with a ribbon cutting by Mayor Oscar Goodman, live music and free samples of cookies, pastries, coffees and teas throughout the day. One dollar from any purchase of food, drink or retail items on the grand opening day will be donated to the Andre Agassi Charitable Foundation, benefiting at-risk boys and girls.

The first free-standing store to open in a Las Vegas neighborhood community, it is also The Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf's first drive-through store. This is the fifth store for Jeffrey Fine, managing member of Las Vegas Coffee Investors LLC, The Coffee Bean & Tea Area Developer for Nevada. Green Valley Ranch Station Casino, Palms, McCarran International Airport C Gate and near the art gallery at Wynn Resorts (formerly Desert Inn) are the other locations.

Dinner and dancing at OXO: Gustav Mauler's OXO, a steak and seafood restaurant at J.W. Marriott, is offering dinner and dancing to the big-band sounds of The Mellowtones, Sundays 5-9 p.m.; $30 per person (tax and tip not included). To reserve call 869-2335.

New menu at Ping Pang Pong: Kevin Wu's Ping Pang Pong at the Gold Coast has revamped its menu, adding some new items and removing a few. Prices are pretty much the same. The Cantonese roast duck half is still an excellent value at $12.95; the chilled mango-tapioca soup with fruit cocktail is a refreshing new dessert.