Columnist Muriel Stevens: Time to clear up confusion behind ratings

Friday, April 5, 2002 | 9:50 a.m.

Muriel Stevens' dining column appears Fridays. Her shopping and travel columns appear Wednesday. Reach her at (702) 259-4080 or muriel@lasvegassun.com.

Who rates the ratings? That question came to mind after reading the recent news release about AAA's Four Diamond Awards in Nevada for restaurants. There was no mention of any AAA Five Diamond Awards recipients. How could that be? For the answer(s) I turned to AAA spokeswoman Lisa Foster, who had sent the release.

What I learned was surprising, but it explained why the release was so perplexing. Unlike most ratings of this kind, where restaurants do not know they have been rated until the information is released, a restaurant (or hotel) that wants to be included applies to AAA for an evaluation.

It then receives an AAA Restaurant Requirements & Diamond Rating Guidelines booklet that walks it through the process.

Foster, upon request, sent me one. It thoroughly explains the process and even includes how to appeal if a restaurant is turned down. It's an interesting twist on the usual rating process, but AAA has been doing it since 1937 when the first field reps were hired to check out lodgings and restaurants.

The diamond rating system was put into effect in 1977 as part of AAA's 75th anniversary celebration.

How much clout does a rating of this kind have? Perfect or not, plenty. No one I spoke to at various restaurants would go on record, but as one food and beverage director said, "In all honesty, it's a matter of marketing. Over time it does tend to have flaws, but it does have impact."

Not for everyone. Some hotels request not to be included. I only know of two in Las Vegas, but was not able to confirm this by deadline.

Much of the confusion about AAA's rating system comes from the company's own business structure. Each region (using the guidelines) is more or less able to do its own thing. Why weren't AAA Five Diamond Awards recipients listed? Four Diamond and Five Diamond Awards are separate entities, given out at different times of the year. "National does the Five Diamond Awards; Four Diamond Awards are made by each region," Foster said.

My thanks to Foster for sending the official guidelines so that I could better understand AAA's rating process.

More Four and Five Star Awards: Mobil Travel Guides do not invite participation by restaurants. Working independently, a national network of culinary and hospitality "experts" do their best to choose the best.

I doubt there is such a thing as a perfect rating process. It takes a year for most travel guides to get into print. By the time a restaurant review is read the chef could have left or management could have changed. Restaurant reviews are, at best, an imperfect way to get information, since many food writers have little or no background for the work they are doing.

So this delicious, but highly controversial field of food writing continues to titillate even as it raises the eyebrows of expectant diners.

Bon appetit!

Soy moving up: Who would have believed that soy milk sales would soar past cow's milk? But that's what's happening. According to a retail tracking source, Resources Inc., during the 52-week period ending Feb. 17, the dairy milk category grew by 2.9 percent while refrigerated soy milk grew by 93.4 percent. Not bad for a category formerly the butt of bad jokes.

As a longtime tofu devotee I've watched the significant changes in the tofu market taking place. No longer do health food buffs have to shop separately for tofu products. These healthier options can be found side-by-side with traditional choices.

I use the reduced-fat soy milk with cereal and it imparts a richness that no low-fat milk can match. If only soy could moo. And, yes, real men do eat soy.

Short orders

Java and art at Jitters: Jitters Gourmet Coffee & Cafes will celebrate it's 11th anniversary in May with a celebration of art. Jitters Director of Operations Chris Beeson is inviting artists to submit work that can be featured on the special coffee product, T-shirts and posters. The winner will receive coffee for the year and the celebrity that comes with being named Jitters artist of 2002.

Submit artwork to Beeson at Jitters, 6000 S. Eastern, Suite 14B. Remember, if you win, the art becomes the property of Jitters.

World's largest charity wine event: 22nd Annual Napa Valley Wine Auction will be held at the luxe Meadowood, June 6-9. This is always a grand event with many exciting events. Vintner Robert Pecota and his daughters Kara and Andrea will chair the historic event. Pecota has participated in every auction since its inception in 1981.

Opening-day festivities begin at Sterling Vineyards recently renovated hilltop site, with a preview look at more than 130 live-auction lots, the private donor-auction lots and a traditional barrel tasting from some of Napa Valley's finest works in progress followed by one of the auction's coolest events, the barrel-lot auction -- all accompanied by the Marketplace tasting of Napa's fine fare.

For additional information email monsan@aol.com or tafuller@pacbell.net.

New Whopper at Burger King: Would you believe a Chicken Whopper has been added to Burger King's selection of burgers? The Chicken Whopper is a flame-broiled boneless chicken breast topped with tomatoes and lettuce, dill pickles and mayo. There's a Chicken Whopper Jr., too.

Also new is the veggie burger. Will wonders never cease?

New location for El Pollo Loco: Just opened, El Pollo Loco at 2400 E. Lake Mead Blvd. on the corner of Lake Mead and Civic Center Drive. That makes seven local outlets for El Pollo Loco. The grand opening included free chips and salsa, churros and soft drinks and many 'oles!' from happy diners.