Columnist Muriel Stevens: Spirit of Piero’s continues to thrive

Friday, Sept. 21, 2001 | 8:37 a.m.

Muriel Stevens' dining column appears Fridays. Her shopping and travel columns appear Friday. Reach her at 259-4080 or muriel@lasvegassun.com.

It isn't often that a restaurant owner beams over losing a chef, but Piero's owner Freddie Glusman's loss was no ordinary one. Piero's Chef de Cuisine Sam Marvin is now the executive chef/partner at Piero's Trattoria (formerly Freddie G's Deli) in the Hughes Center. Managing the Trattoria are two of Freddie's offspring, Charlie Skinner and Evan Glusman. Both have grown up in the restaurant business, working every position from bus boy to parking attendant, under the watchful eye of papa Freddie.

The week before the trattoria opened I met with brothers Charlie and Evan for a tour of the completely revamped restaurant. What they've done to the exterior and interior is wonderful.

Gone are all of the windows facing the parking lot. Flower boxes ring the perimeter, a la Italia. All of the booths have been replaced with tables. Where the deli cases once were there is a handsome bar. The decor is relaxed and inviting.

The menu is a delicious mix of "New Italian" and popular Italian dishes, including terrific thin-crusted pizzas with both new and traditional toppings.

With a resume that includes studies at the Cordon Bleu (top of the class), and being chef at L' Esperante in Paris, Patina in Los Angeles, and Freddie G's and Piero's, Chef Sam has mastered a variety of cuisines.

Most impressive of all is how the trio have come up with a selection of dishes that are affordable and delicious. "Our price goal for dinner," Charlie said, "is to offer a salad, entree and one drink for $35, including tip. The average cost of lunch is $12.50."

Evan said, "I want our guests to be treated at all times as a friend, always welcome at our home."

Chimed in Charlie, "Considering the time we spend here, it is our home!"

There was a brief pause in our conversation when their mother, Jean, reminded Evan that it was his 23rd birthday. He'd been so involved with the service training program, he'd forgotten. At such a tender age Evan is passionate about the importance of good service (must be in the genes). He quoted an anonymous source who said, "A great server can overcome a less-than-perfect meal, a bad server can destroy a perfect meal."

I was to learn how well Evan had trained the staff, and how well the menu worked a few nights later when I returned for dinner with a group of friends. Since I was the only one that had sampled the food, they turned to me for suggestions. When I'd tasted the food there were just three of us to cook for. Now, barely open, the dining room was filled with demanding well wishers -- a whole different ball game. Not to worry. The team scored on every point.

While trying to decide what to order we munched on a crusty cheese pizza (my favorite is the rock shrimp).

Appetizers ($7-$12) are large enough to be a light meal. I'm already hooked, as were my friends once they tasted the scampi on a skewer atop a grilled slice of ciabatta bread with a memorable sauce of lemon, garlic, white wine and herbs.

We all like to graze, ordering a few appetizers as our dinner. Easy to do here. My friends ordered the scampi and the Tower of Parmesan -- chicken and eggplant layered with mozzarella and Reggiano Parmesan cheese on a pool of light marinara sauce.

I chose the mussels to start, a deep plateful large enough to be a meal, but I also wanted to see if the filet mignon salad, available only at dinner ($9), was as good as I remembered. It was even better. Thin slices of rare filet mignon are topped with a generous mound of baby spinach and shaved red onion, drizzled with horseradish creme fraiche and dressed with Worcestershire balsamic vinaigrette. An unbeatable combination. Salad prices range from $5-$9. A few of the starters and salads can be ordered in half portions.

Whole or half orders of pasta are offered at dinner; duck, chicken, steaks, chops and fish ($12-$23) are also available along with a chicken, rappini and sausage dish, and the traditional Italian sausage, peppers and onions.

The extensive lunch menu includes the scampi, risotta croquettes, chopped Italian salad, a number of panini (sandwiches), such Italian favorites as spaghetti and meatballs and lasagna, pizza and pasta and much more.

Piero's Trattoria prides itself on the food quality. Said Chef Sam, "We use the best products available, even importing our porcini mushrooms from Italy."

This delightful new eatery is a welcome addition to the dining scene.

Trattoria's menus will change with the seasons. Lunch hours are: Monday through Friday, 11 a.m.-3 p.m.; dinner nightly, 5:30-10 p.m. For dinner reservations call 892-9955.

Short orders

Correction: Excalibur's Roundtable buffet price changes do not go into effect until Nov. 1. The date of the price change was not included in last week's column.

An evening at Lawry's The Prime Rib: Lawry's The Prime Rib in the Hughes Center will present "An Evening With J.Lohr Estate Wines" Oct. 9. The J.Lohr Hilltop Paso Robles, Cabernet Sauvignon will be featured along with a special menu designed by Executive Chef Robert Maley. Dinner begins at 7 p.m. Price is $85, gratuity and tax included. For information or tickets call Nancy Marcellus, 993-2223.

Ortanique at Paris: Ortanique, offering "Cuisine of the Sun," has opened at Paris Las Vegas. This newer style of Caribbean cooking, "with a fresh, light attitude," is the co-creation of Executive Chef Cindy Hutson and Delius Shirley. For reservations call 946-4346.

More openings: Sammy's Woodfired Pizza has opened in Henderson at 4300 Sunset Road, making it the third location for the popular California chain. Menu choices range from pizzas to salads to pasta to such entrees as New Zealand grilled lamb chops. Open seven days, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. The West Sahara Avenue location is open 24 hours.

The Reserve has opened Fuego (formerly Tusk's Woodfire Grill), a steak and seafood restaurant. Dinner nightly 5-10 p.m. Fuego will be closed from 6:30-8 p.m. Wednesday for a private party. For reservations call 558-7000.

New owners at Golden Steer: The venerable Golden Steer restaurant, at 308 W. Sahara Blvd., has undergone a "subtle renovation" by new owners Chef David Slay, Sorkis Webbe Jr., and a local group of investors including Dr. Michael J. Signorelli. Recently reintroduced, tableside service for Caesar salad, Dover sole, Steak Diane, bananas Foster and cherries jubilee. I wonder if they'll bring back the pasta with chicken livers? No one ever made a better version. For reservations call 384-4470.

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