Greece is the word: Greek Food Festival returns to St. John’s

Wednesday, Sept. 19, 2001 | 8:41 a.m.

Eventually, the festival settled at the Sahara Space Center, where after years of successful fund-raisers the dream of building a new complex came true. Every member of St. John's, regardless of age, contributed endless hours to preparing the foods, orchestrating the entertainment and contributing whatever they could to make the vision of a church and social hall large enough for the fast-growing Greek community come true.

It took many years after the acreage for the church was acquired before the building was completed. The day the church was dedicated the Greek community, along with its many non-Greek friends, joined in celebration. But that was just the beginning. A social hall and community center would be built when additional funds were raised. After many more festivals the vision became reality.

Now the handsome complex stands as a tribute to the members of St. John's Greek Orthodox Church, and the food festival has become part of the culinary fabric of the community at large. The 29th Greek Food Festival begins Friday and runs through Sunday on the church grounds.

"All of Las Vegas will shout Yia Sou,' the Hellenic greeting for good health," event chairman Gus W. Flangas said. "The Greeks have a zest for living and St. John's Greek Orthodox Church has brought that zest to Las Vegas in a big way for the past 29 years."

It takes a vast crew to transform the church grounds into a huge bazaar that features the savory foods of the Greek Islands, exhibition dancing, spirited folk dancing, fun and games for the children and a Greek market and bazaar filled with unusual items. There will be church tours, too.

Buy a coupon book and receive a $16 value for $12.50. Included are an admission ticket, beverage and dinner coupons and a chance to win a prize.

Line up for dinner choose chicken or lamb and continue down the line as food servers pile on rice pilaf, Greek salad, dolmathes (stuffed grape leaves), pastitsio (Greek version of lasagna made with macaroni), Feta cheese and olives and crusty Greek bread.

Or dine as you go at any of the food stands. Portions are usually generous and can be shared. Included are a Greek salad station, a Gyro stand selling the tasty sandwiches with Greek French fries, a souvlakia booth (marinated grilled chicken, beef or pork on skewers) and a Greek specialties stand offering single portions of pastitsio, dolmathes, spanokopita (phyllo-wrapped spinach pie), tiropeta (cheese pie), Greek-style calamari and the tasty Greek sausage, loukanika. Take home a box of Greek pastries or enjoy them at the festival with a cup of regular coffee or a small cup of strong Greek coffee (don't drain the cup unless you want to ingest the fine thick coffee grinds that settle at the bottom). Baklava, koulourakia (sesame cookies) and kataifi (shredded pastry filled with chopped nuts and cinnamon and bathed with a honey and sugar syrup) will be available. If you're planning to take home pastries, do it before you eat. These honey-drenched cakes and cookies do not have to be refrigerated.

Irresistible are the made-to-order, doughnut-like honey-dipped Loukomathes. They're always so much in demand there's a separate booth where these sweet "nuggets" are deep-fried as you watch.

It's adults only (21 and over) at the taverna section, where Greek alcoholic beverages are sold.

No matter how many times I attend the Greek Food Festival, I am never disappointed. St. John's members still cook the food, and somehow manage never to run out.

Try your hand at making a few Greek desserts at home with the following recipes from "The Foods of the Greek Islands" by Aglaia Kremezi, a Julia Child Award winner (Houghton Mifflin, $35).

The melomakarona are "made all over Greece at Christmas," Kremezi says. "If you can manage to resist these, they will get even better with time."

"The Foods of the Greek Islands" is a wonderful read with many fine recipes.

Melomakarona (Walnut-Stuffed Honey Cookies)

1 1/4 c. light olive oil or a combination of olive oil, canola oil and/or safflower oil

1/3 c. sugar

Grated zest of 1 orange

1 c. freshly squeezed orange juice

3-4 c. all-purpose flour

2 1/2 tsp baking powder

1 1/2 c. fine semolina*

1/2 c. brandy

Grated zest of 1 lemon

1 tsp ground cloves

1 tsp ground cinnamon

Filling

2 c. finely chopped walnut

1 Tbs ground cinnamon

Syrup

1 c. sugar

1 c. honey

1 1/2 c. water

In a large bowl, beat the oil and sugar with an electric mixer until blended. Beat in the orange zest and juice. In a medium bowl, combine 2 cups of the flour and the baking powder. Gradually beat the four mixture into the oil mixture. Beat in the semolina, brandy, lemon zest, cloves and cinnamon.

Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface and knead, adding 1 cup or more flour as necessary to obtain a smooth, soft, oily dough. Cover with plastic wrap and let stand for 20 minutes.

Preheat the oven to 350 F.

Make the filling: In a medium bowl, combine the walnuts and cinnamon.

Take pieces of dough the size of a small egg and roll with your hands into ovals, about 2 1/2 inches long. Push three fingers into the bottom of each cookie to make an opening, and stuff with 1 teaspoon of the filling; reserve the remaining filling. Press the dough to close the opening, slightly flatten each cookie and place the cookies on ungreased baking sheets about 1 inch apart.

Bake for about 30 minutes, or until they just start to color.

Make the syrup: In a medium saucepan, simmer the sugar, honey and water for 10 minutes. Remove from the heat.

Place the hot cookies in a large dish and pour the syrup over them. Let stand for 15 minutes.

Turn the cookies to moisten the other sides and let stand until the cookies have absorbed all the syrup. Place the remaining filling on a plate and roll each cookie in it to coat on all sides. Place the cookies in an airtight container, with parchment or waxed paper between each layer. Let stand for at least one day before serving. Store for up to one month. Makes about 40 cookies.

*Available at Italian markets and health food stores.

Tiliktos Baklavas (Rolled Baklava)

1/4 lemon

3 Tbs olive oil

3 Tbs safflower oil

1 c. almonds

1 1/2 Tbs sugar

1/2 tsp ground cinnamon

1/4 tsp freshly grated nutmeg

1/2 lb kataifi (shredded phyllo)*

6 thick phyllo sheets (about 1/2 lb)

Syrup

1 1/3 c. honey, preferably thyme honey

1 1/3 c. water

1 1/3 c. sugar

1/2 lemon

1 cinnamon stick

Preheat the oven to 350F.

Halve the lemon quarter. In a small saucepan, heat the oils with the lemon over low heat for 5 minutes; do not boil. Let cool completely and discard the lemon.

Meanwhile spread 1/2 cup of almonds on a baking sheet and lightly toast, about 6 minutes. Coarsely chop the toasted almonds and the remaining 1/2 cup almonds in a food processor.

In a medium bowl, combine the almonds, sugar, cinnamon and nutmeg.

Divide the kataifi into thirds and place in a large plastic bag to keep it from drying out. Stack the phyllo sheets on a work surface and cover with plastic wrap and then a damp kitchen towel.

Oil a large baking sheet. Lay 1 sheet of phyllo on the work surface and brush lightly with the lemon oil. Lay 1 more sheet of phyllo on top and brush with oil. Sprinkle about 2 1/2 tablespoons of the almond mixture evenly over the phyllo, leaving about 1 1/2 inches of the short side farthest from you uncovered. Distribute one-third of the kataifi over the almond mixture, again leaving about 1 1/2 inches of the short side farthest from you uncovered. Drizzle the kataifi with some oil and sprinkle about 2 1/2 tablespoons of the almond mixture evenly over it.

Brush the uncovered phyllo border generously with oil. Starting with the short side nearest you, roll up the phyllo tightly like a jelly roll, brushing the outside lightly with oil as you roll. Press to seal and turn the roll seam side down on the work surface. Cut the log into 10 equal pieces and place the pieces cut side up about 1/2 inch apart on the baking sheet. Make 2 more logs (20 more baklava rolls) in the same manner.

Bake the rolls on the middle rack of the oven until golden brown, about 30 minutes.

Make the syrup: In a medium saucepan, combine the honey, water, sugar, lemon and cinnamon stick. Bring to a boil, stirring, and simmer until the sugar is completely dissolved. Let cool until warm; discard the lemon and cinnamon stick.

Transfer the hot baklava rolls to a baking dish large enough to hold them tightly in a single layer and pour the warm syrup over them, making sure to cover each roll. Let stand for 2 to 3 hours. Turning the rolls over, cover and let stand at room temperature for at least 1 day before serving. Baklava rolls will keep in airtight containers for up to 2 weeks. Makes 30 baklava rolls.

Most baklava is now made with butter, but this lighter version with olive oil is still baked during the many Lenten days, when dairy products are forbidden.

*Available at Middle Eastern markets and some supermarkets, in the freezer case.

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