Columnist Muriel Stevens: Noodle 2000 features Vietnamese fare

Friday, Sept. 7, 2001 | 9:13 a.m.

Muriel Stevens' dining column appears Friday. Her shopping and travel columns appear Wednesday. Reach her at 259-4080 or muriel@lasvegassun.com.

Will the third time be the charm for the restaurant space at 3650 S. Decatur Blvd., now occupied by Noodle 2000, a Vietnamese restaurant? Owned by Jennie Lee with assistance from her brother, Jim Pkan, who "helps out," and mom's recipes, Noodle 2000 is a delight.

Thanks to Jim, who is fluent in English, my friend and I had no problem with the menu. We were the only non-Asians dining, so we just looked around to see what the other diners were eating before ordering. Although I've enjoyed many a Vietnamese meal, this was the first menu that offered special dishes from Hue (Central Vietnam).

Vietnamese is mostly light and healthy. Many dishes are steamed, simmered or broiled. Fresh herbs are added and various kinds of lettuce are used as wrappers. Presentation is always eye appealing.

I'm especially fond of Goi Cuon, room temperature, soft rice paper-wrapped spring rolls filled with shrimp, pork, rice vermicelli and vegetables. At Noodle 2000 the presentation was lovely: three small rolls atop brilliant green leaves, which we dabbed with hoisin sauce (peanut sauce is often the condiment) then curled around the rolls ($3.95). Delicious.

There are many Pho, a regional beef soup and noodle specialty from the north. The one I chose, Pho Ga, was made with chicken, but was so wonderfully murky and fragrant that only the thin strips of chicken defined the difference. The delicate mix of spices and herbs that flavored the broth were wonderful. These big bowls of broth and noodles and greens are a bargain meal. Prices range from $4.95-$6.95 depending on what's added -- steak, shrimp, meatballs or brisket.

Mon An Dac Biet, house specialties ($12.95-$15.95), include some that are cooked on a griddle at the table. Most intriguing were the broken rice (sort of like couscous) dishes combining pork skin and pork or pork skin with chicken and seafood or a combination of all.

Family-style dishes of spareribs or catfish, shrimp in sweet and sour soup, catfish or pork cooked in a clay pot, chicken with lemon grass or deep-fried catfish are served after 5 p.m. ($7.95-$9.95).

Bun and Banh Hoi (noodle dishes, $4.95-$8.95) are made with either thin or fine rice vermicelli and include carrots, daikon pickles, lettuce, sprigs of herbs and the ubiquitous fish sauce, nuoc mam.

We settled for hot tea as our beverage, but could have chosen any number of exotic (to us) beverages. We were going to skip dessert, but Jim convinced us to try his mother's coconut cheesecake. It was a pleasant, not-too-sweet end to our enjoyable meal.

Reservations are not required, but are accepted. We did not reserve and were seated immediately. Noodle 2000 is open daily 10 a.m.-10 p.m.

Short orders

There is no end to charity events centered around food, food fairs and new restaurants and nightclubs already open or opening soon. The following are just a taste.

Irish pub at Palace Station: Palace Station has opened Jack's Irish Pub devoted to food, drink, entertainment and conversation. Gather each night at 6 p.m. for the bagpipe parade through Palace Station to the pub. A most hospitable way to be greeted.

At 8 p.m. the Wild Celts kick up their heels onstage. Jack's Irish Pub is adjacent to the Palace Cafe. True to its Irish roots Jack's features such brews as Guiness, Killian's Red, Irish stout and the house label Jack's Golden Ale. Many imported whiskeys -- Old Bushmill, Middleton Very Rare, Tallamore Dew (there's a grand one) and Jameson Gold. Pub grub faves such as shepherd's pie and fish and chips, of course. Jack's Irish Pub opens daily at 11 a.m. Closing time Sunday through Thursday is 1 a.m.; Friday and Saturday, 2 a.m.

Willy and Jose's Cantina celebrates: Sam's Town's Willie and Jose's Cantina is celebrating Mexican Independence Day throughout September. Three food specials for $12.99 each are featured: polla la Mexicana (grilled chicken breast), pescado Veracruz (orange roughy) or ranchero steak. Included are rice and beans and dessert, a chocolate taco.

Willy and Jose's offers dinner Tuesday-Thursday, 5-10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 5-11 p.m.

Iron Chef USA "Iron Chef USA: Showdown in Las Vegas," taped at MGM Grand, debuts Nov. 16 on UPN. This bold American version of the Japanese "Iron Chef" series features "frenetic culinary battles between today's most talented chefs as they race against the clock to create outstanding original cuisine." This first special features William Shatner as the chairman, Todd English as Iron Chef American, Alessandro Stratta as Iron Chef Italian, Jean Francois Meteigner as Iron Chef French, Marcus Samuelsson and Kerry Simon as challenger chefs, Michael Burger as play-by-play announcer, Anthony Dias Blue as culinary commentator and Sissy Biggers as floor reporter. A second special will air in early 2002.

Annual Greek Food Festival: Come hungry to St. John's 29th Greek Food Festival Sept. 21-23, on the grounds of St. John's Greek Orthodox Church. A full schedule of events and foods will appear in the Sun on Sept. 19. Recipes and more.

Third Annual Taste of Vegas: Taste of Vegas, Sept. 21-23 at Clark County Outdoor Amphitheater, will once again benefit the Community Food Bank. The Taste of Vegas Art, Cuisine and Music Festival plans to raise 5 tons of food for CFB. Last year's event brought in 2 tons. Admission to Taste is $6. Donate a nonperishable food item and receive $1 off the price of admission.

March of Dimes Stars Chefs: Star Chefs of Las Vegas, a benefit for March of Dimes, takes place at the Rio Sept. 14. The black-tie event, hosted by the Rio's Executive Banquet Chef Alex Pani, will star chefs from Spago, Chinois, Lupo, Postrio and Cili, Rosemary's, Olio!, Commander's Palace, Spedini, Austin's, Wild Sage, Josef's, St. James, 8-0-8, La Chandele, House of Blues Foundation Room, Malibu Chan's and more. An elegant cocktail reception and a live auction conducted by Mayor Oscar Goodman are but a few of the highlights.

Tickets are $125. For additional information call Dale Andreason at 732-9255.