Columnist Muriel Stevens: Chaine dinner dialed in at Caesars’ 8-0-8

Friday, Oct. 26, 2001 | 9:46 a.m.

Muriel Stevens' dining column appears Fridays. Her shopping and travel columns appear Friday. Reach her at 259-4080 or muriel@lasvegassun.com.

Lucky for me I attended the tasting for the Chaine dinner at 8-0-8 at Caesars Palace a few weeks before it took place, or I would have been able to report on only half of the meal. The Chaine dinner was the same night as the dinner at The Mansion at MGM Grand, the opening event of the Association of Food Journalists 2001 conference. I was able to attend both dinners by signing up for the second seating at The Mansion.

I was eager to see if Hawaii's renowned chef, Jean-Marie Josselin, could repeat the triumph of the dinner he cooked for for the eight-person tasting committee. It's a bit different to cook for more than 100 Chaine members and their guests. As usual the dinner was oversold and there was a waiting list, but the affable chef and his crew were ready.

During the short time 8-0-8 has been open Josselin had gathered a loyal cadre of local followers who loved the chef's way of integrating the flavors of his favorite cuisines, French (of course), Hawaiian, Thai, Japanese and Chinese, into his highly original style. Presentation is gorgeous.

Appetizers served during the poolside reception whetted our appetites. After being adorned with leis of fresh, fragrant flowers, the group visited the various stations for a tasting of duck and shrimp lumpia with sweet ginger glaze, seared ahi sushi, onaga ceviche, tiny maui onion tarts with ahi poke and black olive tapenade, crispy shrimp with farrow salad and tako poke with ginger and rice vinegar.

Caesars' pool area, with its lush gardens and the benevolent weather, was an unbeatable experience. We lingered until the last minute before moving on to 8-0-8.

Such a glorious sight awaited us. Tables and chairs were covered in ivory silk, the china and appointments were lovely. But it was the appetizer course that stole the show. Each guest received a triple-tier copper server. On each plate sat a different appetizer -- a lightly cooked and raw assorted fish sampler garnished with a taro chip and osetra caviar, one warm curried hama hama oyster atop cucumber sauce and a salmon "pearl," and a Kona crab Oriental crab cake with shiso vinaigrette and corn salad.

We served ourselves, returning each dish to the tiered server as we finished. It was a lovely way to dine. Following the appetizers came a fat lobster roll with salmon tartar and spicy mayonnaise, a decadent foie gras-filled spring roll with a lime-ginger glaze and accompaniments of eggplant chutney and green papaya salad. I managed one bite of the Misoyaki-style seabass with fried baby spinach, edamame puree and lobster-shiso vinaigrette.

I remembered from the tasting the dishes left behind, wood-fired Hunan-style rack of lamb served with Chinese broccoli, a golden noodle cake and portobello Maui onion glaze, and the delectable dessert miniatures -- Hawaiian Vintage Chocolate pot de creme, ginger creme brulee and passion fruit souffle. I did taste most of the elegant wines chosen by Chaine Vice Echanson, L'Ordre Mondial, Master Sommelier Jay James who is the wine director at Bellagio.

He described to me the challenge of pairing wines with such exotic and flavorful dishes, but his choices were excellent -- Pacific Echo Brut at the reception; a splendid Erbacher Marcobrunn Reisling Kabinett, Langwerth von Simmern, Rheingau 1999 with the first two courses; with the unctuous foie gras, Gewurtztraminer, Fleur, Domaine Schlumberger, Alsace 2000; complimenting the seabass, Pacific Star Viognier, Mendocino, 2000. The most difficult pairing was the Hunan-style rack of lamb, but Jay paired the spicy lamb with a zesty Cape Mentelle Shiraz, Margaret River, Australia, 1999.

Moscato d'Asti, Sant Stefano, Piedmont, 2000, was a smooth delicious match for the dessert sampler.

CCSN again brings home the gold: CCSN Culinary Arts Instructor John L. Metcalfe and his team worked their way to national competition by winning the gold at the Western Regional contest in January. The team wrapped up the gold at the American Culinary Federation National Convention at the MGM Grand Garden Arena on July 23.

Since 1992 teams of students and apprentices who are junior members of ACF chapters have faced off in a battle of brains. The most recent national knowledge bowl competition put CCSN's team up against three other regional gold medal-winning teams. Our team, Teresa Cachia (team captain), Chris Launey (co-captain), Lilian Lazaro, Sonya Vasquez-Ward and Khaled Darwish, was awarded gold medals and a trophy at the convention's general session.

Way to go, team.

Grand Jury Europeen at Bellagio: The highly respected Grand Jury Europeen will make its American debut at Bellagio Nov. 13-17. Gil Lempert-Schwarz, founder of The Wine Institute of Las Vegas, working with MGM Mirage food and restaurant authority Elizabeth Blau, has put together a glorious, albeit expensive, wine and extravaganza.

This splendid event will include superb wine tasting sessions and a gala black tie dinner in the Bellagio ballroom showcasing renowned French chef Joel Robuchon and MGM Mirage resorts outstanding chefs: Picasso's Julian Serrano, Renoir's Alessandro Stratta, Grant MacPherson of Bellagio and Kin Canteenwalla of MGM Grand. During the event there will be many lunches and dinners, some of the finest wines in the world and appearances by some of the world's finest wine personalities. For reservations call Bellagio at (877) 987-7775 or access its website, bellagio.com.

Rare buy at Del Frisco's: One of the most costly steakhouses in Las Vegas is offering an unbelievable value, a three-course dinner for $25. Included are Del Frisco's signature salad, a lettuce wedge with blue cheese dressing, a choice of filet mignon served with roasted garlic duchess potatoes and grilled vegetables or a choice of seabass or tequila marinated shrimp. The filet appears daily; the fish and seafood dishes will change according to what's available in the market and the whim of the chef; and dessert, Del Frisco's "famous" bread pudding.

Why this exceptional value? According to Del Frisco's general manager, Kim Owens, "We wanted to provide our locals (and visitors) with the opportunity to dine more often at our restaurant, and at the same to get a great value." This special dinner is being offered "indefinitely." Dinner hours are 5-11 p.m. Monday through Saturday; 5-10 p.m. Sunday. For reservations call 796-0063.

Short orders

Oops!: My apologies to Stan Carroll, managing partner and chef at Wild Sage for giving him a new last name in a recent column. The Wild Sage honchos -- Carroll, his spouse Laurie Kendrick and her brother Executive Chef Wes Kendrick -- are a formidable team. Ask Stan what he likes best about owning a restaurant and he says, "It makes our day when our nicest customers tell us how much they like our food. Their enjoyment makes them and us, happy."

Dim Sum Sundays at Chinois: Wolfgang Puck's Chinois at the Forum Shops at Caesars has introduced "Dim Sum Sundays." Available on Sunday from opening until 5 p.m. is a selection of tasty dim sum and various hot and iced tea specialties.

Chinois' new happy hour specials include half-priced sushi at the main sushi bar Monday through Thursday, 3-6 p.m. and half-priced drinks at the bar, 2-7 p.m. Friday through Sunday. Chinois Executive Chef Joseph Bennett says the sushi is perfection, and is prepared with the highest grade, freshest ingredients. Chinois features Hong Kong Chinese-style cuisine with French and American influences. Lunch and dinner available 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Sunday through Thursday; 11:30 a.m.-10:30 p.m. Friday through Sunday. Reservations are recommended, but not required. Call 737-9700.

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