Columnist Muriel Stevens: Palms supplies a knockout with Alize

Friday, Nov. 30, 2001 | 9:35 a.m.

Muriel Stevens' dining column appears Fridays. Her shopping and travel columns appear Friday. Reach her at muriel@lasvegassun.com or 259-4080.

A few days after the opening of the Palms, Andre Rochat and his partner Mary Jane Jarvis hosted a lavish buffet reception for longtime patrons and friends at his elegant new restaurant, Alize. Situated on the 56th floor (give or take a few), the view from every table is bedazzling.

Appointments are sumptuous; the decor Old World splendor. Simply put, Alize is a knockout.

For the event, chairs had been placed in pairs along the picture windows, along with the tables. My friend and I opted to dine there. The window ledges are quite deep, so they were able to accommodate our plates and beverages. It was a lovely way to enjoy the food and the sights.

The selection of food, wine and desserts was delightful. Overseeing it all was Andre and Chef Michael Demers. While Andre and Mary Jane greeted their guests, Michael carved succulent meats; the tenderloin was so tender I was able to cut it with my fork.

The design of the original dinnerware, abloom with flowers, has been repeated on the menu cover. Andre and Mary Jane, working with designer Lesley Roy, have created a charming atmosphere.

The a la carte menu offers such specialties as Andre's duck foie gras and black truffle terrine, pan-seared New Zealand langoustines with Basmati rice, a salad of phyllo-wrapped baked pear, Roquefort cheese, seasonal greens and spicy walnuts dressed with a pumpkin-seed vinaigrette and a host of other appealing hot and cold appetizers, soups and salads.

This winter menu features such comforting fare as braised veal shank en pot au feu and Cervina venison tenderloin that's a marvel. And a splendid selection of cheeses and desserts. After disappearing for awhile during the no-fat times, having a cheese course before dessert is back in vogue. We have now re-entered the comfort-food era and cheese fits right in.

Alize is open nightly from 5:30 p.m. The last seating is at 10:30 p.m., but closing hours are flexible.

Remembering Jean-Louis: To all who knew him, super Chef Jean-Louis Palladin was the best kind of friend. I first met him at his Watergate restaurant in Washington, D.C. We renewed our short acquaintance when he moved here to open Napa at the Rio.

A gregarious man with loads of friends, it took him some time to adjust to Las Vegas, a considerably different environment than the one he'd left. But as more and more chefs he knew settled in Las Vegas his life became happier. Chefs are a remarkable lot. They work endless days in the kitchen and then when their day is over they meet up and party. Jean-Louis loved to party. He turned any meal into a happening.

Whenever I dined at Napa he would suggest that I not order off the menu, but let him cook for me. A marvelous idea, except Jean-Louis -- who was rail thin -- could never understand why I insisted that he prepare no more than four courses, including the dessert. He always agreed because he knew he wasn't going to listen to me. Never did he prepare fewer than eight or nine courses. The food was always brilliant. Jean-Louis liked to surprise me with foods he thought I had not before experienced. Once when he served cockscombs, something I discovered I loathed during a trip to Tuscany, I couldn't disappoint him, so I forced myself to at least taste his version. I still hate them, but like everyone else I adored the chef.

Kevin Steussi, who is in charge of restaurant development for Wynn Resorts, says he "shared many fun times with Jean-Louis over the years." We talked recently about the irrepressible chef and his influence on our dining scene.

"When Jean-Louis moved to Las Vegas he was a driving force in improving the dining scene. We have all benefited from him. The mere fact that he lived here, let alone cooked here helped to legitimize the city to many chefs who were considering moving to Las Vegas and subsequently did," Kevin said.

And, we laughed anew over an often-told story. The Steussi family and Elizabeth Blau, senior vice-president of restaurant development for MGM MIRAGE, have celebrated many holiday meals and barbecues with the chef at Elizabeth's home. Kevin did most of the cooking. Last year Elizabeth insisted that Kevin do a fried turkey for Thanksgiving, something he had never done. The reluctant cook worried about experimenting in front of so many chef friends, not to mention his own best critic, wife Becca. Steussi says he'll never forget pulling the blackened turkey from the oil. It looked, he said, as if it had spent two weeks in an inferno. He was mortified by the sight of this turkey. Elizabeth asked Jean-Louis to carve the bird.

His eyes behind the ever-present large-framed glasses widened. "You want me to caaarve that black bird?" He did, and couldn't believe that such an ugly bird could taste so good.

Funny, droll and lovable, Jean-Louis will be remembered most of all for being a most charitable man who devoted a tremendous amount of his limited personal time to different causes. Although Elizabeth, Kevin and I each have our own memories of Jean-Louis, they are all sweet and wonderful. During his short life he touched us all.

Short orders

Caesars chef wins awards: Caesars Palace Palatium Buffet Chef de Cuisine Jeffrey Henderson was named Chef of the Year and was presented with the Culinary Award of Excellence at the recent 2001 Las Vegas Chefs Grand Tasting and Chef Awards ceremony at the MGM Grand Conference Center. Henderson, who has only been with Caesars for one year, is fast making his mark.

Crazy Armadillo opens: Crazy Armadillo, a Tex-Mex grill and oyster bar, has opened at the Stratosphere. Rustic and rowdy, a visit to the lively south-of-the-border cantina is a kick. Among the Mexican dishes are hard- and soft-shell tacos, enchiladas and sizzling fajitas. Also there are homemade baby-back ribs, tri-tip beef medallions and much more. Coastal seafood specialties range in price from $7.99-$13.99. Oyster shooters are $2.49 each. There are five different shooters. The Crazy Armadillo is at the former site of Montana's Steakhouse, adjacent to the Courtyard Buffet. Dinner is served Thursday through Monday from 5:30 p.m.; the oyster bar is open nightly from 4 p.m.