Columnist Muriel Stevens: Specialty catalog a treat

Wednesday, Nov. 14, 2001 | 8:15 a.m.

Igot hooked on mail-order shopping many years ago when I moved from Philadelphia to Las Vegas. Those were bleak days for those of us who cooked on a level that required more than basic ingredients and cooking utensils. There was no ethnic market. The closest thing to a specialty food store was MarketTown at 5th Street and Oakey Boulevard, owned by California businessman Nate Adelson.

Art Lurie, who knew everyone, managed the only market in town with such speciality foods as imported cheeses, fine produce and Prime beef, and even offered delivery service.

Las Vegas was a small, friendly cow town with gaming and big-city entertainment, but for cooks it was nowheresville. Once I was here long enough to make friends I discovered a small hardcore of cooking enthusiasts who shared information and sources. It was through one of my newfound friends that I discovered San Francisco's Williams-Sonoma. In those days days the catalog was four handwritten pages that described cookware and utensils. A phone call would get you more details.

It was a short-lived joy when a W-S shop opened in the Fashion Show mall. I had expected the same abundant selection found in the wonderful catalogs that grew ever larger as Chuck Williams circled the globe seeking out the world's best cookware for the chain of stores he continued to build. Of course, the basics and gift items are at the Las Vegas store, but not much more. The catalogs are still glorious. If you're not on their mailing list you can get one at the store or request one by phone. In between holidays W-S's food selection is practically nil, and most holiday food items must be purchased through the catalog, so we now pay shipping charges as well as sales tax.

Still, W-S will always be special to me because of the many sweet memories of those early trips to any W-S shop I could find. When I travel I always visit a W-S. Ours still comes up short as far as selection. I do like the opportunity to taste some of the olive oils and vinegars usually available at the small kitchen area and I've heard good things about the cooking demos, so I still visit regularly.

Shopping Sur La Table cookware shops is a different experience. Rarely do I not find the items listed in the catalogs at the Sur La Table at Desert Passage. And there is cordiality and warmth here that makes shopping a joy. Sur La Table is a huge store filled to overflowing with everything imaginable for cooks and professional chefs. Catalogs arrive regularly throughout the year.

In addition to an abundance of cookware and kitchenware, Sur La Table has an enormous selection of gadgets, small appliances, glassware, table linens and accessories. Food magazines not found elsewhere are here. I toted home a bagful when I was there recently.

I love the selection of colorful serving pieces, and I had to resist the temptation to buy a 6-quart two-in-one pot that has a divided cooking basket so that two different pastas can be cooked at the same time. The cookbook selection is good, and a chair has been placed nearby so that a book browser can relax with a lapful of books. A visit to Sur La Table is a must for all foodies.