Columnist Muriel Stevens: All-star chef lineup ‘simply sensational’

Friday, May 25, 2001 | 9:06 a.m.

Muriel Stevens' dining column appears Fridays. Her shopping column appears Wednesdays. Reach her at 259-4080 or muriel@lasvegassun.com

Simply sensational was the way foodies described Bon Appetit's Wine & Spirits Focus at Bellagio last weekend. Opening the tasty event last Friday evening was the Grand Tasting on the spacious patio and the deck of the pool area. On every level stellar chefs were cooking and chatting with guests.

This was the time to meet the celebrated chefs who have made Las Vegas the nation's coolest dining destination. The food and wine-and-spirits displays were fabulous.

Among the many chefs, restaurateurs and wine experts on hand were Todd English and Clay Conley (Olives), Susan Feniger (Border Grill), Joe and Megan Romano (Charlie Palmer Steak), Jean Joho (Eiffel Tower), Julian Serrano (Picasso), John LaGrone (Postrio), Jonathan Snyder (Prime Steakhouse), Wolgang von Weiser (Verandah), Alessandro Stratta (Renoir) and David Robins (Spago).

Andre Rochat (Andre's) was there and so were Michael Mina and Mark LoRusso (Aqua), Grant MacPherson and Jean Philippe Maury (Bellagio), Rick Griffin (China Grill), Thomas Birdwell (Coyote Cafe), Carlos Guia (Commander's Palace), Mark Poidevin (Le Cirque and Circo), Wendy and Michael Jordan (Rosemary's Restaurant) and still more.

Saturday's seminars and tastings took place at Bellagio, the Mirage, Treasure Island and MGM Grand. Shintaro executive Sean O'Connell and Mike Shigemoto hosted the sushi and sake workshop; Jay James, Bellagio's wine director and master sommelier, joined Chef MacPherson and Bellagio Garde Mange Martin Heierling in hosting a session of cheeses from France, Scotland and Australia paired with samplings of Port. Aqua's LoRusso and Bellagio's Master Mixologist Tony Abu-Gamin wowed those lucky enough to get tickets to the vodka and caviar tasting. Prices for the seminars ranged from $45-$125.

A portion of the proceeds will be donated to the local chapter of the Make-A-Wish Foundation. This exceptional foundation grants the wishes of children with life-threatening illnesses. Contributions are made to Make-A-Wish Foundations in each Focus event city.

A black-tie dinner Saturday night at Bellagio was a glorious affair. Orchestrated by Elizabeth Blau, MGM Mirage Senior VP of Restaurant Development, the evening was a smashing success. Lighting, designed to highlight each table, cast a soft light on the diners -- so flattering; blooms of every description filled the room. Bellagio's table accessories were, as always, stunning.

The Las Vegas Philharmonic performed magnificently throughout the evening. What a beautiful accompaniment to dinner. In just two seasons the philharmonic, under the direction of Harold Weller, has become a vibrant musical force. Most of the guests were not Las Vegans. They were enchanted with the exceptional musicians and by their performance.

Dinner was a collage of flavors and textures: Columbia River wild sturgeon consomme with tiny Olympia oysters and osetra caviar presented by Aqua's Michael Mina and MacPherson; filet of Scottish salmon and an ethereal potato mousseline reposing in a pool of rich oxtail jus was the bold contribution from Picasso's Serrano; Jean-Georges Vongrichten teamed with his Prime Steakhouse associate, Kerry Simon presented tender, succulent spring lamb with seven spices, and a zesty cucumber-mint relish on the side.

The fine-wine selection paired with each course was chosen by MS James.

Our "first" dessert was a light and refreshing mix of Oriental sweet oranges, cinnamon-baked carrots, green cardamom ice cream and a Carvi tuile cookie. The delicious, exotic concoction was created by Pierre Herme of the Herme Pastry shop in France and Bellagio's Maury, pastry chef extraordinaire. We had barely eaten the last luscious spoonful of the first sweet when the doors to the adjacent room opened to a fantasy of "real" desserts. Overflowing trays of handmade chocolates, crepes Suzette, ice cream in many flavors with various toppings, cakes and petit fours and picture-perfect tarts; table after table of delectable temptations.

Gleeful as kids turned loose in a candy shop, the beautifully garbed guests decimated the trays in short order.

Proceeds from the devilishly wonderful dinner will help support Meals on Wheels of Southern Nevada and Meals on Wheels USA.

The weekend ended with a sparkling champagne and jazz brunch at the MGM Grand -- a sumptuous buffet, live jazz and bubbly champagne -- a memorable feast.

Plans are already under way for next year's Bon Appetit Focus. Rumor has it that once again it will be at Bellagio.

Another wine first for Aureole: Aureole Wine Director Andrew Vadjinia has come up with a revolutionary way to order wine. With the aid of cyberPIXIE, Inc. of Chicago, he has designed an eWine Book that allows customers to make their own wine choices at the table. Eventually the system will be able to be activated from a laptop, no matter where you are. I don't pretend to understand all of the technology involved in getting this system up and running. I do know that it took years to come to fruition. Oh, yes, for those of us who are technologically challenged, the regular wine list will still be available.

Gatsby's to become NOBHILL: July 17 is the scheduled opening date of Michael Mina's NOBHILL restaurant (formerly Gatsby's). Mina said the restaurant will be in the best tradition of San Francisco's casual restaurants, including family-style service for some of the dishes.