Columnist Muriel Stevens: Revisiting a few of our favorite restaurants

Friday, May 18, 2001 | 9:06 a.m.

Muriel Stevens' dining column appears Fridays. Her shopping column appears Wednesdays. Reach her at 259-4080 or muriel@lasvegassun.com

This past week was spent introducing friends to the pleasures of dining at restaurants they had somehow missed.

Andre's French restaurant on South 6th Street is a longtime local favorite (there is a second Andre's at the Monte Carlo), but my friend who is crazy for French food had never been there.

I was only too happy to introduce her to the venerable dining room owned by Andre Rochat and Mary Jane Jarvis.

Andre's is an appealing place with authentic wood-beam and plaster ceilings (crafted by Andre), a comfortable bar and lounge and dining rooms that are so French and so charming.

The new spring menu had many new dishes that we wanted to try, so we ordered a tasting dinner, leaving all but the entree choice up to the chef. Among the many dishes tasted were a savory amuse bouche of salmon tartare (a little gift from the chef), and a marvelous house-made seafood sausage of lobster, shrimp and crab (I could have eaten a double order as my dinner). We also had a slice of Andre's velvety duck foie gras and black truffle with a shimmering dice of Sauternes aspic and toasted, buttery brioche and a taste of the perennial Andre favorite -- succulent oven-roasted, dried fruit-stuffed pork tenderloin with Indian peach sauce.

As entrees my friend had honey-roasted Muscovy duck breast with honey-lavender sauce, duck confit Parmentier and English snow peas, and I chose one of the day's specials -- corn-crusted roasted halibut. Tender and sweet, the halibut, with its corn-custard topping, was a lovely surprise.

Dessert was a sampler of small tastes of many of Andre's most requested desserts, including the scrumptious lemon and raspberry tarts. Sated and then some, I asked Mary Jane, who was in the kitchen (Andre was out with back problems). "Chef Florian" was the answer. Later I met the talented young chef who cooks with skill and taste that belies his age.

Come back soon, Andre, but not to worry -- Florian did you proud with his beautiful presentations and excellent flavors.

Next up for Andre and Mary Jane is a new concept, Alize, at the Maloof family's upscale Palms on West Flamingo Road. The Palms is scheduled to open in December.

Revisiting Picasso: It had been awhile since I last dined at Picasso at Bellagio, so when visiting friends requested we dine there I was more than delighted to join them.

Picasso is one of only two Las Vegas restaurants to have earned the coveted Mobil Five Star rating (which it has for two consecutive years). It is the only Las Vegas restaurant to have reached the final ballot in the annual James Beard Foundation Awards.

As the James Beard judge for this area, it was quite a thrill to finally have a Las Vegas eatery as one of the five finalists. Ever since we became a dining destination I've been waiting for the day when we are recognized by the James Beard balloteers. Not yet, but I know it will happen. Especially after the superb dinner enjoyed last week.

We all chose the tasting dinner and left the choices up to Picasso's culinary maestro, Julian Serrano.

Picasso offers a four- or five-course prix fixe dinner. Portions are sized properly for these glorious multicourse meals. Menus change regularly, according to the season. Chef Julian personally selects every food that is purchased. Nothing less than perfect is acceptable.

I thought of all this as I ate the first bite of the amuse bouche, a small teaser to whet the appetite -- house-smoked salmon topped with a frond of dill and salmon caviar. The tasty tidbit was a promise of what was to follow.

Each course was a triumph of taste and presentation -- fresh pea soup with my favorite pea sprouts, seared scallops, tender lobster, crispy striped bass and finally, two rosy pink slices of succulent loin of lamb.

We shared four desserts, just a taste of each. Even gluttony has its limits.

My friends were enchanted with the dinner and the impeccable service, Picasso's art and the exquisite flowers. They were staying at Bellagio for the first time and described to me in detail their beautiful accommodations. I expect to see them again soon.

Short orders:

Emeril to cook at Fetzer Vineyards: "Fun in the Harvest Sun" taking place Sept. 23 at the beautiful Fetzer Valley Oaks Ranch in Hopland (two hours north of San Francisco), will feature cooking classes with Emeril Lagasse and Fetzer's award-winning cookbook author, John Ash, along with a celebration of the vintage, a sumptuous al fresco lunch, food and wine pairings and and other festival activities. Hours are 10 a.m.-4:30 p.m. and you won't want to miss any part of this harvest celebration. Admission is $65 per person. Purchase by calling (800) 846-8637, ext. 404, or purchase at the winery. Proceeds benefit the Greater Bay Area Make-A-Wish Foundation.

Name change at San Remo: Hotel San Remo at Tropicana and the Strip has changed the name of Paparazzi Grille and Pasta Remo. It is now Paparazzi Grille -- the Italian Steakhouse.