Columnist Muriel Stevens: Traditional fare aplenty at Venetian’s Royal Star

Friday, March 16, 2001 | 8:57 a.m.

Muriel Stevens' dining column appears Fridays. Her shopping column appears Wednesdays. Reach her at 259-4080 or muriel@lasvegassun.com.

Why am I writing about Chinese New Year's dinner at Kevin Wu's Royal Star restaurant at the Venetian when St. Patrick's Day is upon us?

In between the time of the dinner and now, the Sun moved its offices to a grand new building in Henderson. Things were a bit hectic for a while, but now we're back on track.

This extravagant dinner took place the last day of the Chinese New Year, Feb. 7. Most of what we ate is part of the regular Royal Star menu. I have dined at this exceptional restaurant many times but had missed some of these delightful dishes.

Chef Wu is the perfect host, providing not only good food and drink, but traditional Chinese entertainment as well.

This celebration has grown considerably since last year's. More than 200 guests filled the dining rooms. There would be other parties throughout the evening, so dinner was served buffet-style. One portion of the dining room was devoted to the abundant selection of food, all beautifully displayed and served from elegant silver chafing dishes.

For starters there were sesame rice paper shrimp rolls and open-face Yang Chow shiu mai dumplings. Similar dim sum are available during the restaurant's dim sum hours, 11 a.m.-3 p.m. daily.

There were a number of main courses: royal Peking duck, the crunchy skin the color of burnished gold; and tender duck meat were served in classic style -- wrapped in a thin doily (Chinese crepe) with scallion "brushes" and hoisin, a garlicky, garnet-colored bean paste sauce; savory Shan Yu filet with roasted pine nuts; simmered mustard greens with ruyee mushrooms -- never have I had such tender mustard greens; whole, steamed, live Australian cod served with a ginger-scallion sauce and sun-dried scallop fried rice; and finally, incredible lobster Macau, in a lightly seasoned caper-butter sauce over yee foo noodles. Each dish, perfection.

Dinner was also a celebration of the Lantern Festival. A classic Lantern Festival dessert was charming and delicious -- sweet rice patties filled with roasted black sesame seeds, in a barely sweetened broth.

During dinner the melodic sounds of the Chinese zither, played by David Liu of the Cheng-Hsing Art Center in Monterey Park, Calif., filled the air. After dinner, acclaimed Chinese artist Chen Xiong Li demonstrated the art of calligraphy and painting. Departing guests received prints of his work and charming parchment lanterns.

Sharing this special Chinese holiday event were Chef Wu's parents, Ming Ming and Chien Hsiung Wu, and his brother Vincent Wu. A warm, hospitable family.

Some of the dishes we enjoyed are seasonal. Call Royal Star General Manager Tom Chan or Assistant Manager Karrie Hung about availability at 414-1888.

Four Seasons celebrates Ireland: Four Seasons will continue to celebrate the opening of its sister property in Dublin through St. Patrick's Day. The nightly menu in the Verandah restaurant showcases traditional Irish fare and gives diners a chance to win a trip to Dublin for two at the new Four Seasons. Airfare is included.

Among the Irish favorites featured on the menu are Irish smoked salmon with warm potato cake, cockle soup, corned beef and cabbage with champ (a favorite Irish potato dish that has many variations) and Irish stew. Also, Irish soda bread and buttermilk oat bread. Dessert choices include Irish whiskey trifle and black currant and apple crumble with goat cheese ice cream and flaked oat shortbread. And Irish coffee, of course. The special St. Patrick's menus were created by Executive Chefs Terry White (formerly of Dublin) and Wolfgang Von Weiser.

Each dinner guest is eligible for the drawing for the trip to Dublin via Aer Lingus.

The talented duo have added an Irish theme to the Four Seasons afternoon tea, too. Tea is served 2-5 p.m. Included through Saturday are buttermilk scones, Irish shortbread, whiskey fruitcake and Irish clotted cream.

Reservations are suggested for dinner and afternoon tea. Dinner service is from 5:30-10 p.m.

Short Orders

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