Columnist Muriel Stevens: Finding food favorites around Philadelphia

Friday, June 8, 2001 | 8:54 a.m.

Muriel Stevens' dining column appears Fridays. Her shopping and travel columns appear Wednesdays. Reach her at 259-4080 or muriel@lasvegassun.com

Las Vegas is not the only city blooming with new restaurants. A feeding frenzy is taking place in every major city, including Philadelphia where I just spent four days. It's amazing how many meals can be consumed in such a short time; most of them at the Four Seasons Philadelphia where I was staying.

On my first evening I dined at the acclaimed Four Seasons Fountain Restaurant, winner of many awards. It was a fine way to begin my stay.

Executive Chef Jean-Marie Lacroix had won the James Beard Award as Best Chef: In May Mid-Atlantic announced his retirement, but he was still in the kitchen when I was there. He was still there when I left. He was happy with his decision to retire, yet reluctant to leave the domain where he had reigned so long.

Lacroix's tenure had been a long one, since 1983 when the Four Seasons Philadelphia opened (he joined the Four Seasons chain in 1981). Under his leadership the hotel's food operations thrived. Fountain Restaurant is not only one of the city's finest, it is the premiere choice for visiting nabobs and locals for any special occasion and, of course, lunch, dinner or Sunday brunch. A gracious staff and exceptional food makes it a joy to dine here.

Among the many favorites: sauteed grouper with ginger-flavored Oriental greens and black beans; pan-seared jumbo sea scallops with flaked whitefish; a tall cake of celery root hash topped with a poached quail egg and osetra caviar; marinated Norwegian salmon with Moroccan couscous salad and blood orange and creme fraiche remoulade.

The grouper was one of the "alternate cuisine" choices offered by Four Seasons hotels -- "nutritionally balanced healthier fare." Foodies always share bites of their food with their dining companions. We had to keep reminding ourselves that the grouper was the healthier alternate, it was that good.

One day I hosted a lunch at Fountain Restaurant. Each friend who attended had a story to share about parties in their honor that had taken place at the Four Seasons. They remembered each detail as if the events had just occurred. All this as we dined on a flavorful salad of jumbo lump crabmeat, bay scallops and shrimp; brown butter-braised fennel, celeriac and summer squash gateau, sauced with an artichoke-olive oil emulsion. Having dined so healthfully (the vegetable dish was an alternate) we didn't hesitate to order dessert -- a divine apricot tart with a hazelnut crust. My normally weight-conscious friends devoured every crumb.

The only meal I missed at the Four Seasons Swann Brasserie Cafe, a charming lounge and restaurant with extended hours, was afternoon tea. Just couldn't fit it in, but I managed Sunday brunch, lunch, pre-dinner drinks and a sampling of the Viennese dessert table available after 9 p.m. There is always something going on in this vibrant lounge and eatery, including cool live music.

Martin Hamann, a Philadelphia native who worked with Lacroix for 18 years, is the new executive chef for the Four Seasons Philadelphia. Said Four Seasons Regional Vice President and General Manager Robert Cima, "Chef Hamann is a worthy successor to Jean-Marie Lacroix, he is truly home-grown talent." Judging by the foods I enjoyed, the transition from Lacroix to Hamann was flawless.

Neighborhood eateries

Of course, there's more to dining in Philadelphia than the Four Seasons, but I happily admit that had it not been for friends I would have been content to not leave the hotel.

Center City, a most desirable place to live for career types, is booming with chic, small casual eateries with creative young chefs and affordable prices. Audrey Claire at 20th and Spruce (within walking distance from the hotel) is terrific. Audrey Claire does not accept credit cards or reservations (except on Tuesday, Thursday and Sunday), does not have a liquor or wine license (BYOB), yet if you plan to dine here on a non-reservation night you could have a long wait unless you dine early.

My friend and I arrived Saturday just before opening, 5:45 p.m., but had to wait until the official hour. But it had been noted that we had arrived first and we had first pick of a table. A friendly bit of consideration. Sidewalk tables are also available.

The a la carte menu includes grilled flatbreads ($7-$9), small dishes that are really large dishes ($7-$10) and bigger dishes ($10-$19). We shared two small dishes, a baby arugula salad with grilled figs and raspberries and a huge bowl of Prince Edward Island mussels. We could have stopped there, but had added one bigger dish, Chilean seabass with blood orange-citrus salsa. Another person could have made a meal of what we left.

A few of my favorite neighborhood restaurants:

There is an Audrey Claire, a chic, stunning young women who knows just what a neighborhood restaurant should be. She recently opened a second restaurant with an Asian carte at 20th and Manning just a short walk from Audrey Claire. It, too, was packed.

I dined at Cafe Chamin, a Thai-Italian in Bala Cynwyd. This small neighborhood cafe has a Thai owner who mixes and matches the two cuisines with a dash of this and a dash of that, coming up with some tasty results. Just a step above a hole-in-the-wall, Cafe Chamin is another busy place.

South Philadelphia's veteran the Saloon, an old-fashioned Italian with a few contemporary touches was the closest I came to Old Philadelphia dining. Listed in the bibliography of a few wise guy tell-alls as a favorite hangout, I saw only seemingly solid citizens the night I was there.

I am indebted to my friends for coming long distances to share with me their faves.

Short orders