Columnist Muriel Stevens: Restaurant gives a Command performance

Friday, Feb. 23, 2001 | 9:42 a.m.

Muriel Stevens' dining column appears Fridays. Her shopping column appears Wednesdays. Reach her at muriel@lasvegassun.com or 259-4080.

Mardi Gras came early for members of the Las Vegas chapter of the Chaine Des Rotisseurs, the oldest gourmet society in the world, and what a celebration it was.

Commander's Palace at Desert Passage at the Aladdin was the perfect place for a Mardi Gras dinner. Owned by New Orleans' venerable restaurant family the Brennans, Commander's Palace, Las Vegas, is in every way the equal of its southern namesake.

Brad Brennan, the youngest family member to direct a Brennan restaurant, and his staff created a memorable event.

Commander's Palace is quite large with many attractive dining rooms that flow into each other. The Garden Room where the Chaine dinner took place is a lovely place for a private party. Nearby is an exhibition dessert kitchen, where diners can watch as the dessert chefs concoct the luscious sweets. For this occasion it had been transformed into a prep kitchen, where during the cocktail hour guests could observe as the chefs cooked.

The dining room was ablaze with the Mardi Gras colors, green, gold and purple right down to the table linens and napkins. A few days before the party Brennan had been in New Orleans. He brought back hundreds of Mardi Gras necklaces, masks, party favors and colorful "mischief" dolls, a more benevolent version of the traditional voodoo doll. The silk on one doll matched the fabric of Brad's tie. The beads were offered by two fetching young women who were our Mardi Gras hostesses.

All through the reception and the dinner, Gary Queen and his Dixieland trio entertained. Quirky and talented, the musicians were magic. At the reception guests devoured great quantities of hors d'oeuvres: tasso (Creole-smoked, spiced ham) stuffed shrimp; andouille sausage (homemade, of course) canapes with zesty Creole mustard and caramelized onions; wonderful, small corn-fried oysters with horseradish cream sauce; truffled goat cheese tartlets; and Commander's signature smoked Gulf fish salad on a beet chip.

Sipped with the savory tidbits -- Pacific Echo Brut Rose 1997 and the original Ramos Fizz, as well as as some new spins on the classic Ramos Fizz, which were concocted by Southern Wine & Spirits maestro of mixology, Francesco Lafranconi. The classic was the most popular. What a dazzling prelude to the Mardi Gras dinner that followed.

In keeping with the theme, a jumbo lump crabmeat "martini" was served in a double-martini glass. The crabmeat had been marinated in white truffle oil and sherry vinegar and was heaped atop a chiffonade of greens; thin streamers of carrot and purple cabbage overflowed the glass, adding another festive touch.

Next, a duet of turtle soup (the real, not the mock) with sherry and Commander's murky, full-bodied Gulf Coast seafood gumbo served in small, white cups. Each soup was so wonderfully flavored. We heeded the advice of Master Sommelier Jay James to first eat the less-assertive turtle soup, then the gumbo. James, who is the wine director for Bellagio and vice echanson for the Chaine's highest wine order, L'Ordre Mondial, is an expert at pairing foods with wines. He chooses all of the spirits for our dinners.

Red snapper "Mardi Gras" was richly hued pan-seared red snapper over a bed of mashed Peruvian purple potatoes, topped with brilliant green sea beans. On the plate a drizzle of Meyer lemon-yellow pepper emulsion added more color. A beautiful sight.

The piece de resistance was a boneless roasted quail stuffed with a mix of sweetbreads and foie gras, and served with baby red mustard greens braised with crispy apple-smoked bacon and sauced with a port wine reduction.

This exceptional meal was created and prepared by Executive Chef Carlos Guia and Executive Sous Chef Tory McPhail, and their staff.

Wine expert James chose an interesting selection of wines to accompany the flavorful, sometimes spicy courses: Livio Felluga Tocai Friulano 1999; Bonny Doon Vin Gris de Cigar 1998; Selbach-Oster Wehlener Sonnenuhr Reisling Spatlese 1998; and Domaine de Courcel Pommard Grand Clo des Epernots 1995.

Dessert was the delectable Commander's Palace Creole Bread Pudding Souffle -- bits of divine bread pudding mixed into a light souffle base. A heady bourbon whiskey sauce was added by the captain at the table. With it, Wild Turkey honey liqueur. A match made in heaven.

And still there was more. The lovely hostesses offered trays of colorful Mardi Gras king's cakes iced with green, purple and gold fondant. What a triumph for the pastry chefs were the yeast-risen, delicate cakes.

Departing guests (most were reluctant to leave) received gift bags containing one of the mischief dolls and other Mardi Gras souvenirs -- remembrances of a special event.

More Commander's Palace: This was not the first time I'd dined at Commander's Palace. I've had many wonderful lunches and dinners there. The only meal I've missed is the Sunday brunch, complete with Dixieland and Ramos Fizzes. Many of the dishes at the Chaine dinner can be found on the regular menu. Not to be missed, whatever the meal, is the stone-ground grits laced with goat cheese. Grits lover or not, these grits are irresistible.

Commander's serves lunch, dinner and Sunday brunch. For more information or reservations call 892-8272.

Le Cinq dinner: Venetian Palazzo Ballroom E will be the setting for a splendid Bordeaux wine dinner presented March 2 by the Venetian in association with the Wine Institute of Las Vegas. The owners of six fine Bordeaux wineries will personally attend the splendid event. Wines from Chateau Gazin, Pomerol; Chateau Smith Haut-Lafitte, Graves; Chateau Branaire-Ducru, St. Julien; Chateau Canon La-Gaffeliere, St. Emilion; Chateau Pontet-Canet, Pauillac; and Chateau Lafon-Rochet, St. Estephe will be tasted at a six-course dinner prepared by Valentino Executive Chef Luciano Pellegrini, Lutece Executive Chef Robert Kirchoff and Zeffirino Executive Chef Gian Paolo Belloni. Price per person is $195; tables of eight are $1,500. For reservations call the Wine Institute, 898-7928 or e-mail gil@winevegas.com.