Columnist Muriel Stevens: Hilton pastry chef experiences thrill of victory

Friday, Feb. 16, 2001 | 9:30 a.m.

Muriel Stevens dining column appears Fridays. Her shopping column appears Wednesdays. Reach her at 258-4080 or muriel@lasvegassun.com.

When the news came that Team USA had won the gold at the recent Coupe Du Monde de la Patisserie (World Pastry Cup) in Lyon, France, I was elated. Not only for the team, but for its leader (president), Las Vegas Hilton Executive Pastry Chef Stanton Ho, whose work I have long admired.

What does it take to win the gold at the illustrious Coupe du Monde de la Patisserie? It was a question Stan had asked himself many times since the first competition took place in Lyon, Jan. 21-22, 1989. It was the mission of the competition's president and founder, Gabriel Paillasson, to bring together in a single international event the three professions of pastry cook, chocolate maker and ice cream maker. He was joined by a small group of award-winning French pastry professionals, and Valrhona chocolate, which was the founding sponsor. The adventurous competition was born.

Ho was already the winner of many awards for his creative pastry making when he and Team USA first competed in 1989. He was determined to one day win the gold medal.

For 10 years he participated in every competition studying the work of every winning team. He had to, he said, "get to know the logistics to get to the top." Along the way there was a bronze medal and a silver, but until now, never the elusive gold.

"This year," Stan said, "I knew we were ready, I strongly felt that we would win."

He also knew he had the right team. It takes three competitors, a support team of instruction personnel, one alternate, one manager/coach, two to three volunteers and a president (Ho) who is responsible for organizing and overseeing just about everything.

Members of the USA Team were: team captain En Ming Hsu, executive pastry chef for the Ritz Carlton Chicago (a Four Seasons hotel); first team member Ewald Notter, owner/instructor of the International School of Confectionery Arts, Gaithersburg, Md.; second team member Michel Willaume, executive pastry chef, Ritz Carlton, San Francisco; team alternate Jody Klocko, executive pastry chef, Hilton, Short Hills, N.J.; chairman Ho; administrator Steven Palumbo, Washington, D.C.; manager/coach Donald Wressel, executive pastry chef, Four Seasons, Beverly Hills, Calif.; and technical adviser Keegan Gerhard, from North Carolina. Also supervising Team USA was honorary President Roland R. Mesnier, executive pastry chef of the White House.

It takes six months of training to prepare to compete and to create the designs. The team's first stop was Notter's confectionery school in Maryland, where it perfected techniques and planned its strategy. It was imperative that it "capitalize on the individual strengths of the team." During his years of competition and observation of the winning teams, Stan perceived that the winners always included cutting-edge elements that no one yet had done when they did their assemblages. Their pastries, too, were cutting edge, unlike any others done before.

Each team was required to make three centerpieces using all edible materials, (excluding stems and branches) entremets (cakes), ice sculptures, ice creams and candies. At least 60 percent had to be Valrhona chocolate of the Grand Cru category (Valrhona is a superb chocolate in every category) and 40 percent the flavor elements.

Within nine hours, in front of 15 international judges, each team had to create pastries that were judged in eight categories. Three of the 18 teams dropped out before the judging because of mishaps with their displays. This is a grueling competition that leaves no time to eat or to take rest breaks. The pace is relentless.

During our interview I asked Stan when his team knew it had an excellent chance to win. "It was all the indications from the judges. We could sense their approval.

"As the president I had to be the judge of all the parts -- flavor, taste and the score. Not only of my team, but the other teams to see how they compared. Instinctively I knew we were ahead."

How far ahead? By 440 points better than the silver winner, Japan. Italy won the bronze. The U.S. team earned the highest overall points and the cherished gold medal. It was a dream realized, one that was 10 years in the making, but so much the sweeter when it came.

Academy of Spirits resumes classes: The Academy of Spirits and Fine Service will present its second series, beginning Monday. The series is open to all members of the beverage industry, including bar and beverage managers, bartenders and servers.

Classes will take place Mondays 12:30-3 p.m. at Southern Wine & Spirits, 4500 Wynn Road. For additional information call course instructor Francesco Lafranconi -- 248-3306.

More Academy: There were a few omissions in my column about the first Academy of Spirits graduating class, which took place recently at China Grill at Mandalay Bay.

Best Student Award: Bobby Gleason, Bellagio.

Best Cocktail Award: Darren West, Bellagio.

Highest score in the written test: Jimmy Cavarette, China Grill.

Congratulations to all.