Columnist Muriel Stevens: Return of famed Bootlegger eatery applauded

Friday, Feb. 2, 2001 | 9:39 a.m.

Muriel Stevens' dining column appears Fridays. Her shopping column appears Wednesdays. Reach her at 259-4080 or muriel@lasvegassun.com.

There is little continuity in Las Vegas these days, so I'm delighted to report the return of a longtime favorite family restaurant in a new location, the Bootlegger.

Now named the Bootlegger Bistro, only the location has changed. Although the restaurant is new, it bears all the trademarks of the former Bootlegger, including the deep, comfortable booths. These are the originals from the Bootlegger. Family photos cover a large slumpstone wall. The decor is warm and inviting, and there are many familiar faces in the kitchen and among the staff.

Bootlegger Bistro is the new home of founders Chef Maria Perry and her husband, Albert. It was 1943 when the Perrys left Niagara Falls, N.Y., for Las Vegas. With them was their baby daughter, Lorraine, and Al's sister, Madeline.

Maria had been cooking since she was 12, when she worked with her grandmother creating recipes and planning menus. The Perrys learned about the restaurant business from working at Las Vegas' Fiesta Villa, where such Hollywood luminaries as Howard Hughes and Jane Russell hung out.

In 1955, with other family members, the Perrys opened the Venetian Pizzeria on Fremont Street. The first Bootlegger Ristorante opened in 1972. Joining in the venture were Lorraine and her husband Charles "Blackie" Hunt (both were long-running, successful entertainers in major Strip hotels). They brought new ideas and energy, as well as their presence to the Bootlegger.

Now, many years later, Chef Maria is still cooking (she's at the restaurant every morning) with husband Albert at her side, Lorraine is Nevada's lieutenant governor (and still helps her mother) and Blackie oversees the restaurant and, as always, provides the laughs.

Bootlegger Bistro had not yet announced it was open. I jumped the gun, dining there the day after, but I couldn't wait. Like so many longtime Las Vegans, dining at the Bootlegger is part of my family history. Many happy occasions have been celebrated at the restaurant, and at home with takeout from the separate takeout shop.

Bootlegger Bistro is open 24-hours. The breakfast menu, 11 p.m.-11 a.m., features American and Italian specialties; lunch hours, 11 a.m.-3 p.m.; early bird dinner, 4-6 p.m.; dinner from 4 p.m. carry-out shop; 11 a.m.-10 p.m. After 10 p.m. order takeout from the restaurant.

It took a long time for my friend and I to order dinner; we wanted all of the old favorites. While deciding we munched on the small squares of Maria's panetti bread that comes with all entrees. A savory tomato sauce is provided for dunking. Entrees also include pasta or potato and fresh seasonal vegetables.

We savored Maria's wonderful vegetable and pasta minestrone and shared a large bowl of crisp fried calamari ($7.95), and tender scampi sauteed with wine, butter and garlic ($9.95). Entrees of eggplant Parmagiana ($10.95) and Chicken Angelo ($15.95) were delicious. The cheese-topped eggplant sat on a pool of tasty marinara sauce. An excellent, lighter version of the classic. The chicken Angelo, generous pieces of boneless chicken breast sauteed with olives, mushrooms and artichokes in a piquant wine sauce, was another pleasing dish.

Our server, Dino, gave us the kind of caring service that always enhances a meal. It was a lovely evening. By the time we left, the restaurant and the separate bar were full and people were waiting for tables. All this without any notice the restaurant was open. Many were old customers who had eagerly been awaiting this new Bootlegger.

Bootlegger Bistro's dinner menu includes antipasti ($3.50-$9.95); salads ($3.95-$9.95) and small, medium or large classic antipasto plates; pastas and Italian specialties ($7.95-$11.95); a selection of seafood, fish and seafood and pasta combinations ($12.95-market price); and chicken dishes ($13.95-$15.95). The meat selection has been expanded and includes steaks as well as veal Marsala, veal piccata and veal Lorraine; and Maria's homemade Italian sausage.

Early Bird specials, $9.95 and $11.95, include a choice of soup or salad and a choice of such entrees as Chicken Angelo with angel hair pasta, eggplant Parmagiana with spaghetti and baked lasagna with meat sauce -- some of the restaurant's most popular dishes.

A complete menu is offered at lunch along with sandwiches, pizzas and calzones and a large selection of salads.

Bootlegger Bistro is at 7700 Las Vegas Blvd. South, directly across from Saks Off Fifth at the Belz mall. For reservations call 736-4939; for carry-out call 736-7080.

Welcome back, Bootlegger. We missed you.

Short Orders

* Asia at Harrah's: Now through Tuesday Asia Chinese restaurant at Harrah's will highlight its usual fine menu with special Chinese New Year specialties. Among the distinctive holiday dishes are: Chilean seabass with miso sauce, Thai-style spicy shrimp, steamed live shrimp with garlic paste, and abalone with seasonal greens. Asia offers dinner Wednesday through Sunday from 5:30 p.m. Reservations are suggested. Call 369-5084.

* Wine dinner at Rosemary's: Rosemary's Restaurant, at 8125 W. Sahara Ave., is offering a five-course dinner with Ferrari Carano wines ($115, all-inclusive) Sunday at 6:30 p.m. International wine expert George Truby will participate. For reservations call 869-2251.

* Wine dinner at Lawry's: J Wine Company will debut the company's newest wine, J Ratafia 1998, at Lawry's the Prime Rib wine dinner Feb. 8. J Wine Company winemaker Oded Shakked will do the wine commentary. The winemaker dinner time is 7 p.m.; the all-inclusive price is $85. For reservations or information call Nancy Marcellus at 993-2223.