Columnist Muriel Stevens: Valley awakens with new resort

Wednesday, Dec. 19, 2001 | 8:28 a.m.

The day of my overnighter, Thursday, coincided with the Sun Christmas party, so early in the morning I packed a small bag and headed for Green Valley Ranch Station Casino.

Parking is a cinch at this beautiful new hotel. There are separate valet doors for the hotel and for the casino, which are connected but separate entities. Smartly dressed doormen and bellmen were waiting under the hotel's Porte Cochere to take my bag and briefcase and to answer questions. The door people and bellmen are an awesome team. There wasn't a question I asked that stumped them.

Posh and elegant, the hotel lobby is reminiscent of fine European hotels without the pretension. Warm and inviting, there are areas that offer beguiling views of the gardens and spectacular pool area. Additional rooms, all beautifully furnished, are for reading or just relaxing. Coffee, teas and Danish pastries are offered each morning in the lobby.

It could take a day to walk the property around Whiskey Beach, the pool area (with its own sand beach) and the gardens and to see everything. Adjacent to the pool are cabanas that include personal plunge pools. A partially enclosed pool cafe offers drinks. Through the alchemy of the banquet department the lush lawns and gardens surrounding the pool can be transformed into an unforgettable setting for weddings and other special occasions.

A three-acre section of the gardens has been planted with grape vines. Can a foot-stomping grape crush be in the future? With the cadre of imaginative hotel planners Green Valley Ranch Station Casino has assembled anything is possible. Ensconced in Whiskey Beach's vineyard is a cool venue for outdoor concerts.

A spacious (10,000 square feet) European-inspired day spa, Grand Dolphin Court Spa at Green Valley Ranch, offers a wide array of therapeutic treatments, workout facilities and a full-service salon. A good portion of spa is situated below ground. A reflecting pool in front of the spa is the ceiling for many of the treatment rooms. Grand Dolphin Court Spa is available to hotel guests and the public.

Rooms at the hotel are spacious, with well-chosen appointments. Comfortable, firm mattresses are dressed with luxurious Frette linens -- silky, satin-striped duvets cover down comforters. There are matching top sheets and four goose down pillows on every bed.

All of the bathrooms have large, white porcelain designer sinks, a stall shower and a steeping tub. The commode is in a small separate room complete with telephone. Toiletries, a lighted adjustable mirror, hair drier and plenty of generously sized towels are part of the amenities. A rarity for Las Vegas is an in-room mini bar. Every room has one. It is obvious that this Station property aspires to become a five-star hotel.

It is well on its way with executives who have come from established five-star properties. Director of Hotel Operations Michael J. Tata has a degree in hospitality management from the University of Nevada, Las Vegas and was formerly in management positions with Four Seasons hotels in Las Vegas and Maui.

Access from the lobby to the casino and restaurants is easy. After the first try, we readily found our way. If you're not staying at the hotel, use casino underground valet parking or the huge parking garage or the many surface parking lots. The 10-screen Regal Cinema is on the lower level, where there is 4,200-square-foot arcade.

Central to the casino is the dazzling Drop Bar with its grand arched ceiling. Take a good look at this. It's wonderful. Drop Bar was conceived by celebrity designer Michael Czysz. Rande Gerber (Cindy Crawford's hubby) who developed L.A.'s so-in Sky Bar and New York's Whiskey Bar will operate Drop Bar and other bars in the casino. Gerber and his brother Scott Gerber own Whiskey Sky, the only entertainment venue situated adjacent to the hotel lobby. The massive high-gloss white entrance doors are spectacular.

Inside Information

Most of the restaurants are in the casino. Here's what you'll find: Gustav Mauler's newest concept, Bull Shrimp, a steak and seafood restaurant with emphasis on shrimp dishes; Sue Feniger and Mary Sue Milliken's Border Grill; Il Fornaio Cucina Italiania; The Original Pancake House (their first hotel/casino location); Trophy's, a sports bar with a difference; and Fado, an Irish pub opening in February.

"We chose these restaurants," said Michael V. Mecca, Green Valley Ranch Station Casino vice president/general manager, "because they offer the types of food our guests want and each brings national recognition, experience, quality and value."

Restaurants are so easy to access. Each restaurant can be entered from the parking lot. It couldn't be easier. Drive around until you see the restaurant sign. Park, walk through the door and there it is.

When I asked Gustav why he was opening yet another restaurant, he said it was decided a long time ago -- even the name. Spiedini, one of his two restaurants at the J.W. Marriott Las Vegas in Summerlin (formerly Regent Las Vegas), was open just one week when a representative from Station properties offered him a location at then-yet-to-be-built Green Valley Ranch Station Casino. Mahler was already experiencing the madness of a hotel trying to find its identity, yet he survived and thrived and opened Oxo, a steak and seafood eatery.

He didn't hesitate to join the Fertitta and Greenspun families, who own the Green Valley Ranch Station Casino (the Greenspuns also own the Las Vegas Sun). Mauler liked them and respected their business acumen.

"It was an easy decision," he said. Bull Shrimp's contemporary, bright design was created by Mauler's business partner, internationally known hotel designer and architect Paul Steelman. Steelman also designed their restaurants at the Marriott and Sazio at The Orleans. Bull Shrimp offers a variety of "shrimply sensational" shrimp dishes, seafood starters, steaks and chops, fish and "doubles," meat and seafood combinations. Entree prices start at $16.95. Lunch is served Monday through Friday 11:30 a.m.-3 p.m.; dinner served nightly, 5:30-10:30 p.m.

"Finally, we can meet the locals," said Sue Feniger, co-owner with Mary Sue Milliken of Border Grill in California and at Mandalay Bay. The hosts of "Too Hot Tamales" on Food Network enjoy their Mandalay Bay location, but yearned to connect with the community. With this easily reached Border Grill they'll get to meet everyone.

I love the colorful art, homespun Mexican interior and the zesty, but not fiery foods. The average price of a meal at Border Grill is $15 at lunch; $24 at dinner, but you can easily dine for less. Portions are generous and many dishes can be shared. The menu features a host of "little bites;" seafood appetizers; quesadillas; tortas (sandwiches); salads; and plates that include red rice, green rice, and a choice of charro or vegetarian black beans. Many "special plates." Not to be missed, the marinated, grilled skirt steak with its captivating smoky flavor. The sangria is fruity and not too sweet. There are many specialty drinks and nonalcoholic refreshers.

And wait until you taste the desserts. The same menu is offered Sunday through Thursday, 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 11:30 a.m.-11 p.m.

A little Italy

Another restaurant eager to make the local scene is Il Fornaio featuring regional Italian specialties in a setting reminiscent of Tuscany. This inviting restaurant with its wood accents, lofty ceiling, handsome furniture and inviting fireplace features indoor and outdoor dining (weather permitting) on the piazza.

Breads are baked daily from scratch and are available to take home. Prices are moderate. An average meal is $20. Antipasti, soups and salads, pizzas and calzone from the on-view oven and a variety of perfectly cooked pastas are featured along with a variety of meats and poultry. Panini, Italian sandwiches, are offered at lunch. Hours are 11:30 a.m.-11 p.m. Sunday through Thursday; 11:30 a.m.-midnight Friday and Saturday.

The Original Pancake House opened in Portland, Ore., in 1953. There are now more than 80 franchises coast to coast. The Green Valley Ranch Station Casino outlet will continue the tradition of from-scratch batters and sauces and will add dinner. I'd be just as happy with one of the renowned apple pancakes, a skillet-sized single pancake covered with sauteed apples and cinnamon sugar then baked, for any meal of the day. Everything is cooked to order. Original Pancake House is open daily from 6 a.m.-10 p.m.

Trophy's is a full-service casual restaurant with a bar. The decor may be sporting, but the emphasis is on good American Cafe cuisine, says Trophy's creator and founder Dale Wilson. The success of the first Trophy's in San Diego led to more California locations and now, the Trophy's at Green Valley Ranch Station Casino, the first outside of the Golden State.

Never before have I seen such an appealing collection of trophies so elegantly displayed. The oldest treasure is a fencing award, a slightly dented silver goblet dating back to 1876. White kraft paper covers the tablecloths so that "kids and business types" can vent their artistic impulses. Same menu is in effect all day from 11 a.m. "until the last customer goes home."

Trophy's also supplies many of its menu items to customers at the adjacent sports book. Sports enthusiasts who don't want to leave their seats can signal for service without missing a play.

A true feast

There's more. The expected Feast Around the World Buffet, in the same area as the casual Food Court, is a beauty. Showcased at the entrance are extravagant displays of fresh fruits and vegetables (not to be eaten). Feast offers a terrific selection of hot and cold foods at six specialty stations: Italian, with a separate pizza station; Latin American; Asian; a Mongolian grill; classic American; a sizeable salad bar; and a dessert station with pastries baked fresh daily in the resort's bakery. Champagne Brunch is offered Saturday and Sunday.

On the same side as the buffet is the fast food court with Fatburger, Panda Express, Dryer's Ice Cream, Stage Deli, Pizza Luna and a Coffee Bean and Tea Leaf outlet. Hours vary.

Pizza Luna is the brainchild of Spago Las Vegas managing partners David Robins, Tom Kaplan, Joe Essa and Mark Ferguson. Joel and Howard Barish, owners of Stage Deli, also have a piece of the Pizza Luna pie.

During a last look at the restaurants I met up with Don Marrandino, president of east Las Vegas operations for Station Casinos Inc. He oversees Boulder Station, Sunset Station, The Reserve, Barley's Casino & Brewing Company and Green Valley Ranch Station Casino.

"It's an old paradigm that people have to go into a casino to get to a restaurant," Marrandino said. "Going to the restaurants here is like going to a free-standing one. No running through a maze of slots to reach your destination. Although we do like it if you choose to stay and play."

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