Columnist Muriel Stevens: Unwrapping a few more good books

Wednesday, Dec. 19, 2001 | 8:43 a.m.

"The Best American Recipes: The year's top picks from books, magazines, newspapers and the Internet 2001-2002," edited by Fran McCullough, Houghton Mifflin, $26: A surprisingly appealing recipe collection with something for everyone.

"Lidia's Italian-American Kitchen," by Lidia Maticchio Bastianich, Knopf, $35: A companion piece to the New York restaurateur/chef's new 52-part PBS series. I learn something new each time I view the lively Lidia. Her book is personal and informative. Such pasta, such tips.

"Magic in the Kitchen," Artisan, $50: Whimsical photographs by Jan Bartelsman and recipes from outstanding American chefs make this volume a delight. Laughter and surreal photographs spice up the recipes. Does Thomas Keller really hang his garlic on a clothesline? Who cares? This is a seriously irreverent take on celebrity chefs and they appear to love being part of Bartelsman's keen eye.

"Alfred Portale's 12 Seasons Cookbook," by Portale with Andrew Friedman, Broadway Books, $45: Cooking with the seasons is not a new idea, but the world-renowned Portale, of the Gotham Bar and Grill restaurant, brings renewed vigor to the concept. Passionate about food and devoted to using the finest ingredients in season, Portale takes us on a wondrous journey through food.

"The Cheese Lover's Cookbook & Guide," by Paula Lambert, Simon & Schuster, $35: Lambert is the owner of the Mozzarella Company in Dallas. She imparts her love of cheese, as well as useful information for buying cheese. Armed with such info, you'll be a cheese maven in record time. The bacon, egg and cheddar scones could make your reputation as a baker.

"How to Read a French Fry and Other Stories of Intriguing Kitchen Science," by Russ Parsons, Houghton Mifflin, $25: More than 100 recipes and a trove of fascinating information from the Los Angeles Times food editor. The patience it must have taken to check such processes as how fruit ripens, the complexity of making perfect French fries (who knew?) and other kitchen mysteries are unraveled as you read. A must-have for serious foodies.

"The Culinary Institute Of America Book of Soups," Lebhar-Friedman Books, $35: More than 100 recipes for making comforting soups. Forget just tossing into a pot whatever is in the refrigerator. That's OK, but the CIA's recipes are better. Homemade soups -- there's nothing more satisfying. Bread recipes, too.

"Jim Coleman's Flavors," Potter, $25.95: Jim Coleman serves up a mess of good food in little time -- three courses in 30 minutes. As the executive chef at the renowned Rittenhouse hotel in Philadelphia, host of the PBS series "Flavors of America," host of a radio show and author of a newspaper column, Coleman has little time to spare. He shares his secrets and recipes in this companion to his PBS series. Nothing pretentious, just simple, delicious recipes easily duplicated at home. A friendly little volume.