Columnist Muriel Stevens: It’s hail to the chef as Clinton visits NOBHILL

Friday, Aug. 31, 2001 | 9:07 a.m.

Muriel Stevens' dining column appears Fridays. Her shopping and travel columns appear Friday. Reach her at 259-4080 or muriel@lasvegassun.com.

It was pure happenstance that I dined with friends at Michael Mina's NOBHILL at MGM Grand the night our former prez, Bill Clinton, dined there.

Our first stop was Seven, a hot new restaurant and nightclub at Harmon and the Strip, where Country Star had a brief run. Seven (named for seven partners) features "New World Cuisine" and late hours. We were there to celebrate the third anniversary of Las Vegas Weekly (a Greenspun Media Group publication). It was a lively event with plenty of food and drink.

When we arrived at NOBHILL all was in readiness for Clinton's arrival. Our table faced his tables so we had a clear view.

The former president was not the only luminary dining that night at NOBHILL. MGM Grand President Gamal Aziz was dining with San Francisco Chronicle restaurant critic Michael Bauer. MGM Grand will be an important part of the the upcoming Association of Food Journalists conference to be held in Las Vegas in October. Bauer is AFJ's outgoing president.

The Clinton party was large, requiring two tables. While dinner was being ordered the affable Clinton worked the room, stopping to chat at every table. He looked fit, slim and handsome.

NOBHILL's menu has something for everyone. Chelsea Clinton chose the fresh tomato soup and grilled cheese and lobster sandwich for her starter, and Mina's spin on San Francisco's Green Goddess salad as her entree. The salad was created many years ago by the Palace Hotel in honor of actor George Arliss, who was appearing in a play with the same name. Chelsea's dad ordered garlic soup, Mina's version of Hangtown Fry -- a crispy Yukon gold potato cake topped with housemade spicy fennel sausage and champagne-poached oysters finished with a sunny-side-up quail egg.

Also ordered by the ravenous table were cheese fondue, "Solari Grill's" Dungeness crab Louis, tapioca-crusted rock cod, the lamb-tasting plate, and Michael's exceptional lobster pot pie and Monterey Bay abalone served with squid ink fettucine. The farm-raised abalone arrives in the shell (the shell is also part of the presentation), is opened at the restaurant, sliced and pounded until tender. It's a glorious dish. With it, the creamy whipped potato selection that comes with all entrees.

Clinton wasn't the only one working the room, although he is the master. Mina spent as much time in the dining room as he did in the kitchen chatting with diners and friends. No, he's not running for political office, he's just a charming, sociable man. Mina didn't have to worry about being in the kitchen. In place, as always, were Executive Chef Wayne Alcaide and Executive Sous Chef Josh Thomsen, performing as well as the maestro himself.

While we were taking in the Clinton scene another star entered; MGM's "EFX Alive" star Rick Springfield with family and friends, for a celebration of his 52nd birthday. The star appears to have made a complete recovery from his recent accident.

Springfield visited with Clinton and his party, then brought over his kids to meet the former president. They were as starry eyed as the rest of us besotted fressers.

We were so busy eating and watching, we forgot to order one of the souffles for dessert. They should be ordered when ordering dinner, but within minutes our chocolate souffle arrived, tall and beautiful. We departed with that happy glow that comes after a superb meal dished up with some unexpected power scenery.

We waved bye bye to the Secret Service people sitting at the end of the bar keeping a watchful eye on the dining room, and just like Cinderella we made our way home at midnight.

Spago redo: Spago in the Forum Shops at Caesars will undergo a complete refurbishing, starting Tuesday. The cafe will be closed for one week, reopening Sept. 12. The cafe bar will be enlarged and the wine room behind the bar enclosed.

Spago's dining room will be temporarily relocated on the second level of Puck's Chinois in the Forum Shops. Spago's dining room will reopen at the end of September. Said managing partner Tom Kaplan, "We're enclosing the kitchen to soften the noise level, introducing new lighting, new furniture and a whole new palette of colors and fabrics. Our new artwork will introduce promising young artists.

"We're enlarging the restaurant entrance and completely redoing the banquet room. New menu items will be added to the cafe and dining room menus."

The same designer who created Postrio's decor will work his magic on Spago. Of course, nothing will ever surpass the thrill of the Spago opening almost 10 years ago. It was the beginning of the golden dining era for Las Vegas.

Short orders

La Scala: Giancarlo Zaretti has opened La Scala at 1020 E. Desert Inn Road (Mark I Tower). Formerly the location of pioneer restaurateur Joe Pignatello's Vesuvio, the restaurant changed hands when Joe's health failed. Next came Bacio Organica. Giancarlo's menu offers no surprises, but he tells me the restaurant reflects his philosophy that the food should be good and the prices affordable. That they are. At lunch pasta prices start at $7.95, soup or salad included, and there are pizzas, antipasti and meal-size salads. No pizzas at dinner, but there's a good variety of pastas and entrees. Call 699-9980 for more information.

Russian restaurant Eliseevsky opens: Rustic interiors, a friendly staff and mom's recipes make this neighborhood Russian eatery at 4825 W. Flamingo Road worth a try. Portions are small, but so are the prices. Ask for the menu written in English if you're given the all-Russian one. Interesting, but not useful for most of us. This is not haute Russian, but it's a pleasant enough ethnic meal. For reservations call 247-8766.