Columnist Muriel Stevens: Haifa eatery is loaded with attractive options

Friday, April 27, 2001 | 8:58 a.m.

Muriel Stevens' dining column appears Fridays. Her shopping column appears Wednesdays. Reach her at muriel@lasvegassun.com or 259-4080.

The recent opening of Haifa, a glat kosher restaurant on Twain at Swenson, gave observant Jews, and those who like ethnic cuisines, some delicious new options. What's more, Haifa is a fresh attractive place, with white tile floors and walls, pretty upholstered chairs and good-sized tables.

I've dined at Haifa a few times since it opened and have enjoyed every dish I've ordered. Like so many glat kosher eateries the food is mostly Middle Eastern. The owners are Israeli.

Haifa offers limited breakfast items -- shakshuka (a cooked tomato and onion dish), full madammas (fava beans) and eggs, any style, served with French fries and Israeli salad.

The same lunch and dinner menu is featured all day. Hummus, babaganoush, falafel and such are priced from $1.75. The Combination Appetizer Plate ($8.50) includes hummus, tahini, Israeli salad and eggplant salad. It could easily serve four as a starter.

Pita pockets ($4.50-5.95) of falafel, shashlik chicken or beef, kabab or shwarma are filled with Israeli salad and tahini. Deli sandwiches ($4.95-7.50) include French fries, cole slaw or potato salad.

Entrees ($11.95-24.95) are served with a choice of two sides -- rice, French fries, salad or green beans in tomato sauce. The chicken shishlik is a winner -- two skewers of grilled seasoned chicken cooked to perfection. Beef Carmel is another good choice. In spite of its name, the meat is sauteed ground lamb served atop a bed of hummus and topped with pine nuts -- hearty, but delicious. Haifa offers takeout, a la carte Shabbat specialties ($3.60-10) and a complete Friday meal ($25). Haifa's hours are Sunday through Thursday, 10 a.m.-11 p.m.; Friday closing is two hours before Shabbat; closed Saturday.

Wild Sage celebrates

Easter weekend was a busy one for Wild Sage Cafe. After a morning church wedding, Chinois Executive Chef Joseph Bennett and his bride Dee Ann Herrington hosted a wedding reception at Wild Sage. The restaurant was abloom with gorgeous arrangements of white flowers. Chinese appetizers during the reception were followed by a delightful lunch with Brioche-Crusted Turbot, Baby Vegetable Ragout with Lemon-Tarragon Butter and Asparagus Puree with Fresh Pea Sprouts and Truffle Oil.

Dessert was the elegant wedding cake created by Spago Corporate Pastry Chef Christophe Ithurritze. Of course the maestro himself was there, Wolfgang Puck, and so were Spago Las Vegas Managing Partner Tom Kaplan and Executive Chef-Partner David Robins.

More Wild Sage

Wild Sage Owner Laurie Kendrick needed roller blades to keep going on this busy day. Earlier in the morning Laurie had created a veritable feast for President Bill Clinton and Sen. Hillary Clinton who were going back to D.C. on a friend's plane. Among the many delicacies were house-smoked salmon, homemade breakfast breads, French cheeses and fresh fruit and a chopped vegetable salad designed for afternoon munching.

If only all airplane fare could be that good!

Orleans opens pub

Now open at the Orleans is Brendan's Irish Pub, an authentic bit of Eire, named for Michael Gaughn's son. Brendan's is situated opposite the buffet. Next to open (June) is Gustav Mauler's Italian restaurant, Fazio's. And there's still more to come.