Columnist Muriel Stevens: Doors finally close at Caesars Palace’s Cafe Roma

Friday, Sept. 29, 2000 | 11 a.m.

Muriel Stevens' dining column appears Fridays. Her shopping column appears Wednesdays. Reach her at muriel@lasvegassun.com or 259-4080.

Every time I learn of another restaurant closing I get grumpy. I've got a long history with Caesars Palace and I hated to see the Palace Court and Bacchanal become memories. Then came word that Cafe Roma would go, too. Drats. Not the 24-hour coffee shop where everyone used to hang out for breakfast and lunch.

Not the eatery so proud of its breakfast rolls and breads that it had servers just for the bread. These femmes were outfitted like cigarette girls, bearing trays that hung by a strap from their necks. How they carried these bread-laden trays remains a mystery, but the baked goods were sensational.

I hadn't been to Cafe Roma in years, but as a woman of a certain age I like familiar things. "You'll like the new restaurant," promised the Caesars team, and they were right. I passed by the soon-to-go Cafe Roma on my way to the new Cafe Lago and was stunned by what I saw.

This new "24/7 resort cafe" is a totally different casual dining experience that includes entertainment. Pianist David Osborn, formerly at the Palace Court lounge, will tickle the ivories on his Steinway from 6-10 p.m. The entertainment area is the centerpiece of the dining room. The 70-foot buffet is at the back of the dining room.

Like Cafe Roma, Cafe Lago offers breakfast, lunch, dinner and Saturday and Sunday brunch buffets, as well as a full menu of breakfast, lunch and dinner specialties.

What's more, the decor is amazing. Waterfalls, high booths and views of the gardens and swimming pool areas. Cool blues and silver accents are used throughout.

Among the many morning specialties are smoked salmon with potato latkes (pancakes), vegetarian egg-white fritatta and Dutch apple pancakes. A breakfast buffet ($13.99) is "Roman Style." This means lots of food. The weekend brunches ($29.99) are veritable orgies with fresh seafood, a variety of smoked fishes and unlimited house champagne. Strolling entertainers, a la New York City -- think street performers -- are part of the fun.

A special kids menu (12 and under) features three-course dinners ($6.99) that include a soft drink, appetizer, entree and dessert. An extra attraction for kids is Wicki sticks, colored wax sticks that can be used for drawing or assembled to make things.

Lunch and dinner menus include everything from steamed littleneck clams to lobster Fra Diavolo. Service is from 11 a.m. to midnight. A late night menu served from midnight to 5 a.m. includes appetizers, salads, sandwiches, pasta and pizza, entrees and breakfast items.

Featured on the lunch and dinner buffets are items from the rotisserie -- game hens, chicken and pork loin, a variety of meats carved to order, Asian items at the wok station, a pasta station, gourmet salads (don't miss the Israeli couscous), a glorious variety of breads (much too tempting) and many desserts.

There's an interesting magnum wine service policy. Order a glass of one of the three wines -- Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon or White Zinfandel and a magnum of one or all will be brought to the table. Pour your own glass ($4.99), or glasses. At the end of the meal just tell the server how many you've had and you'll be charged accordingly. No questions asked. Beer, martinis and other libations are also available.

A private room can accommodate up to 100 diners.

After leaving Cafe Lago I took a good look at Cafe Roma. The contrast was dramatic. It was time to bid adieu to Cafe Roma.

More Caesars: Opening soon is another new eatery, "808," a smashing contemporary seafood restaurant being partnered with Hawaii's noted chef Jean Marie Josselin. Chef Jean Marie was the consultant for the Second Street Grill at the Fremont downtown. 808 is a jewel of a restaurant. It's expected to open in November. The name is the area code for Hawaii.

Short orders

Biersch will unveil its seasonal Oktoberfest brew -- Festbier, along with a host of German-inspired foods. The Oktoberfest menu is available for a limited time so don't delay. Here are some of the special dishes: brats; turkey legs; smoked salmon tartar; grilled grouper salad; chicken rouladen with spatzle; lamb shank, lentils and vegetables; wurst platter with sauerkraut; stuffed cabbage rolls and warm apple-cherry strudel with vanilla ice cream. All entrees are under $14.

The regular dinner menu is offered from 5-10 p.m. weekdays; 5-11 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays. For more info call 872-5408 or (800) 955-1314.

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