Columnist Muriel Stevens: Change in ownership, locale for Liberty eatery

Friday, Oct. 27, 2000 | 10:17 a.m.

Muriel Stevens' dining column appears Fridays. Her shopping column appears Wednesdays. Reach her at muriel@lasvegassun.com or 259-4080.

It was a sad day when the longtime Liberty Cafe in the 24-hour White Cross Drugstore closed. It had been a favorite eating and meeting place for locals for many years.

For the past 12 years Penny Sofoulis was the owner and operator. Whatever happened to force her out I don't know, but I do know where she relocated.

Liberty Cafe is now Liberty Bar & Grill in the Sunrise City Shopping Center at 2797 S. Maryland Parkway. There's no counter here, but there are many familiar faces. Said Penny, "Yes, the counter is gone, but everything else is the same." When Penny left, the entire crew, except one, went with her.

Prices are still reasonable, and the food selection is about the same. Breakfast is served anytime; graveyard specials are served from midnight to 5 a.m.

For more information call 892-9222.

The plot thickens: The same day I talked to Penny I received word that the landmark Liberty Cafe coffee shop had reopened in White Cross drugstore. The operator is a former owner, "Gus" Ramadanis. There is some talk about litigation over the name, Liberty Cafe. How will it all end? No one knows, but I hope whatever caused the rift will end amicably.

Kyoto great value: When the Kyoto Japanese restaurant opened at Karen Avenue and Maryland Parkway it had many problems. Service was slow and the food was uneven. After two tries I decided there was little reason to return. But lately, when passing by, I noticed that business at Kyoto was picking up.

It was time to give it another chance. It was a good decision. Kyoto has always been an attractive eatery; now they have food as pleasing as the decor. The sushi bar features a good selection of mostly fish and seafood sushi: sea urchin, combinations with quail egg, fresh water eel and suf and giant clams.

Hand rolls are generously sized and include many house specialties. The a la carte and dinner menus offer such standard Japanese fare as salmon and chicken teriyaki, but also offer combination dinners, special dinner boxes and many noodles. Soba noodles made of buckwheat are my favorite.

Dinners include soup, salad and rice. My friend and I ordered the nightly special ($12.95) and were overwhelmed by what we got: soup, salad and a tray that included two gyoza (dumplings), eight pieces of California roll, tempura shrimp and vegetables, lean teriyaki chicken on a bed of shredded lettuce, rice and a scoop of potato salad.

I've never been able to find the reason for including potato salad. One Japanese restaurateur said it started to please the non-Japanese diners, but it doesn't please this one. Nevertheless, this was a pleasing meal. Of course, we each took enough home for a second meal.

Since my last meal, Kyoto has become a good family-style Asian restaurant. Little English is spoken here, though we didn't encounter any problems.

Kyoto serves lunch and dinner. Reservations are not required.

Serrano signs contract: It's now official. Julian Serrano, the brilliant chef who oversees Picasso at Bellagio, has signed a new contract with MGM MIRAGE. Serrano received a number of tempting offers when word came that his contract was up for renewal, but after much soul-searching he opted to remain in Las Vegas. Good news for all Serrano admirers.

Short orders

La Chandele at Reflection Bay is open to the public. Lunch served daily, 11:30 a.m.-3 p.m.; dinner served Tuesday through Sunday, 5:30-9:30 p.m. A jazzed-up Sunday champagne brunch ($18.95 per person) is offered from 10 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Reservations are accepted. Call 568-7383.

Also, entree-size salads and a variety of fresh seafood and pastas. Price range is $6.75-$12.75. The spectacular view is free.

Top of the World Lounge, above the restaurant, is offering a "happy hour" for locals and visitors. A combination discount Tower ticket and drink package includes the "happy hour."

Max C's hours are Monday through Friday, 9-5 p.m.; Saturdays, 9 a.m.-2 p.m.