Columnist Muriel Stevens: Verandah offers fine food, ambience to match

Friday, Oct. 13, 2000 | 10:44 a.m.

Muriel Stevens' dining column appears Fridays. Her shopping column appears Wednesdays. Reach her at muriel@lasvegassun.com or 259-4080.

The Verandah restaurant at the Four Seasons is all things to all diners, serving breakfast, lunch and dinner. It is also a delightful place to dine -- it's beautiful, peaceful and relaxing, and there's a handsome terrace for al fresco dining.

Food prices are as pleasing as the surroundings. At breakfast and lunch times, the Verandah is usually busy. I prefer the quieter dinner hours.

Chef Wolfgang von Weiser is a fine cook. His three-course dinners ($24) are an excellent value with wonderful food. Dinner menus change seasonally. The current prix fixe menu includes a choice of butternut squash and asparagus salad with caramelized chanterelle mushrooms or pecan-dusted quail breast and tempura-fried quail leg with roasted red and golden beets; a choice of pancetta-wrapped mahi mahi with white bean puree and Asian pear chutney or chanterelle-crusted venison loin; and for dessert, a choice of white chocolate cream with black truffles, infused in cognac and vanilla bean or a divine creme brulee with a pistachio tuile (tile-like cookie) and fresh berries. With wine, the price is $36.

The a la carte dinner menu features a selection of salads and soups ($6-$8), appetizers ($9-$13), including osso buco ravioli, wood-roasted sea scallops and sweet corn risotto.

Among the entrees ($18-$25) are: seared beef tenderloin with green bean and spinach salad and the chef's signature truffled potato strudel, seafood lasagna with Pacific prawns, marinated free-range chicken breast with Tuscan white beans and poached swordfish.

The Verandah is the place for those looking for nutritionally balanced, healthier fare. Each section of the carte offers a Four Seasons alternative dish.

Reservations are accepted, but not necessary except on weekends and holidays.

Generous salads, including a classic Nicoise, sandwiches, pizzas, pasta, and a small selection of entrees are offered at lunch.

Best of all, it's never a problem to valet park at the Four Seasons.

Spago pleases Hillary: Oh, if only all political fund-raisers were as tasty as the one catered by Spago for first lady Hillary Rodham Clinton.

Chef Matt Hurley and his expert crew supplied a never-ending stream of prime rib crostini with Roquefort and shallot relish; smoked sturgeon on blinis with drawn butter and creme fraiche; slices of roasted new potatoes topped with beluga caviar; grilled chicken satays and beef satays; home-smoked salmon pizza and a variety of pizzas -- toppings included artichokes, portobello mushrooms, roasted peppers and leeks and Gorgonzola and lamb pepperoni. Huge trays held exquisite cheeses; nearby each tray was a stunning array of Spago breads. Spago Pastry Chef Mary Bergin beguiled everyone with her miniature lemon tarts, chocolate Marjolaine, apple tarts, creme brulee chocolate opera cake and homemade candies.

The Secret Service all had box lunches made by Spago. They actually smiled.

Chin's to close: Another Las Vegas landmark restaurant will bite the dust Sunday when Tola Chin closes his Fashion Show mall restaurant. I've known the Chin family since the first Chin's opened on West Sahara Avenue in 1975. The tiny eatery was formerly a Mexican drive-through, but the Chins, Tola and wife Marcia, turned it into the hottest place in town.

Tola was the first to serve Chinese chicken salad, the recipe was a closely guarded secret. He introduced us to Chin's beef, strawberry chicken, raspberry roughy and a host of other originals. There were plenty of copycats, but none came close to the original. The special Chinese dinners the Chins hosted for friends will never be forgotten. One 10-course salmon feast starred fresh salmon from Alaska contributed by a friend who loved to fish.

The Fashion Show mall restaurant was the third location for Chin's. I never thought it would be the last. Tola has turned his sights to other ventures. A successful import-export business keeps the entrepreneur busy these days. He travels constantly.

We shared one last dinner before the closing. It was wonderful, as always. This time, I got the recipe for the chicken salad.

Short Orders

Crazy Bones at McDonald's: The largest collection of Happy Meal toys in McDonald's history hits the restaurants today. Monster Crazy Bones, a larger version of of the popular toys, are now available at McDonald's restaurants nationwide. There are 24 Crazy Bone characters. Now through Nov. 2 buy a Happy Meal and receive two Monster Crazy Bones, a collectible sticker card and an official Crazy Bones game, as long as supplies last.

Oxo opens: Gustav Mauler's Oxo steakhouse has opened at the Regent Las Vegas. This "different kind of steakhouse" (average entree price $20-$30) offers marvelous steaks and seafood done to perfection by Certified Master Chef Mauler. The stunning design is by award-winning architect Paul Steelman. Mauler and Steelman also own Spiedini Italian restaurant a few steps away from Oxo. Oxo is closed Sundays. For reservations call 869-2335.

Lawry's presents 'Murder': Mystery and satire will be served in large portions Oct. 29 when Lawry's The Prime Rib presents "Murder at Cafe Noir." This comic tribute and spoof of classic Bogart movies of the '40s has a "memorable" Halloween twist. Tickets, $65, include Lawry's notable prime-rib dinner. For information or group or individual tickets for "Murder at Cafe Noir" call Nancy Marcellus at 893-2223 by Oct. 26.

Anasazi opens at Desert Passage: Santa Fe's renowned Anasazi restaurant has opened at Desert Passage. The decor is stunning -- ask about the symbolism of the various rooms. The food is a mix of the distinctive flavors of Native American, Colonial Spanish and American Cowboy blended with contemporary Southwestern. Many signature dishes. Anasazi is open daily for lunch and dinner. Reservations not required. Call 836-0989 for more info.

Fall menus debut at Bon Jour: Bon Jour Casual French Restaurant is now offering new fall lunch and dinner menus. Owned by Bernard and Marie Calatayud (originally from Cannes), Bon Jour's food reflects the Provincial heritage of the owners. In the kitchen is French Executive Chef Benoit Chobert. Lunch is served Monday through Friday; dinner Tuesday through Sunday. There is a break between lunch and dinner, so call for hours -- 270-2102. Bon Jour is in the Colonnade Center at Eastern Avenue and Pebble Road.