Lake Mead cruise a break for harried workers

Kimberley McGee

Wednesday, Oct. 11, 2000 | 10:02 a.m.

What: Lake Mead Cruises.

When: Sunday through Thursday, dinner cruises 6:30 p.m. to 8:30 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, dinner and dance cruise at 7:30 p.m. to 10:30 p.m.; daily cruises at 10 a.m., 12 p.m., 2 p.m. and 4 p.m.

Where: Lake Mead Cruises Boat Tours.

Cost: $26 for dinner cruises, $49 on Friday and Saturday, $18 for day trips.

Information: 293-6180.

For many Las Vegans, the busy work week is spent as though they're competing in a sailing race -- hands gripped tight, knuckles white and bodies strained to keep a fast and steady pace.

But just south of Las Vegas locals can let go and let someone else steer for an hour or two, on a leisurely cruise on the waters of Lake Mead in a 300-passenger paddle-wheel boat called the Desert Princess.

Lake Mead Cruises, an authorized concessioner of the National Park Service, takes would-be boaters and curious tourists on day and evening trips to Hoover Dam. The boat gives guests a glimpse of the man-made lake's surrounding desert mountain landscape.

The three-decked boat launches from the Lake Mead Cruises' mini-marina for 1 1/2-hour (day) and three-hour (evening) cruises, which can feature a three-course meal, while touring the lake at 10 mph.

The four-engine boat, with two enclosed dining rooms, was custom built by Skipperliner Shipyards in Wisconsin specifically to cruise Lake Mead.

On a recent midweek evening, Department of Motor Vehicle employee Ron Ferrara and his wife, Jackie, who works for an airline company, stood on the top deck of the Desert Princess as it launched for a two-hour dinner cruise.

The theme song from the movie "Casablanca" played in the background as the couple unwound from the pressures of the workday.

"It's a neat getaway from the city," Ron Ferrara said.

"And we like the water," Jackie Ferrara said. "But we would never own a boat. Too much work."

"But this is nice, its good to come out here and be on the lake, relax," Ron Ferrara added.

The 122 passengers on that evening mingled outside in the balmy air, exploring each deck and checking out the views.

The large, red paddle wheel that churns at the back of the boat throws a fine spray on the back deck, but guests tended to gather at the front of the boat and on the top deck under a canopy of stars.

"You don't get this in the city," Jackie Ferrara said as she craned her neck to look at the Big Dipper.

The second deck, with a wide, red rail, seemed to be the place for couples to cuddle.

"It's very romantic," Can Le, of Las Vegas, said. He and his girlfriend, Shu Jaun, popped up to the second deck after each course to snuggle on deck.

"We want to see the dam and this is nice, different," he said.

Gordon McKeown, from Texas, recently wed his bride, Jenni, in Las Vegas and invited his family from Ontario, Canada, to attend the ceremony.

His parents, Heather and Ralph McKeown, had taken the cruise before, and as a wedding present took the couple and four other family members on the dinner cruise.

The McKeown clan rented a minivan and drove 30 minutes from their rooms at the Luxor and Excalibur hotels to take in the lake.

"We took the tour of the dam itself and it was amazing," Gordon McKeown said. "It will be interesting to see it from this side."

A voice over the loud speaker informed guests that their salads were being served in the dining rooms, and most turned from the starry view to go inside and begin their meals.

But some couldn't seem to break away. A woman at the rail shouted to a friend, who gestured for her to come in and eat. "I came to see what's outside, not inside," she said.

The boat cruises the perimeter of Lake Mead on its way to the dam, so that curious onlookers can get a closer look at the craggy mountains and possibly spy a flock of bighorn sheep or other desert wildlife.

Captain Bob Winters, the voice behind the loud speaker, navigates the boat on the calm waters. With 35-years of experience sailing on the Atlantic Ocean, the lake is mild to the seasoned sailor, but also an experience.

"I grew up on boats back East and this, this is interesting," he said, maneuvering the ship around the Kingman Wash and through the narrow canyon that leads to the dam. "It's beautiful, isn't it?"

Captain Bob (as he is called) lets children and adventurous guests steer the boat in open water. He presents them with certificates honoring their work as a co-captain.

In the canyon leading to the dam, Captain Bob uses high-tech equipment and his experience to guide the large ship through the channel buoys and within 50 yards of the dam. Then he turns it around and chugs slowly back to the marina.

The dam comes into view about an hour into the cruise. Guests leave their plates behind to snap photos or simply ponder the dam as its vitals -- height, history and might -- are announced over the loud speaker.

Gordon McKeown took a souvenir photo of the back of the lighted dam. "It's not as impressive from behind," he said. "But it still gives you a good perspective."

His brother, Hank McKeown, agreed.

"You only see 15 feet of concrete compared to, what, 300 (feet)?" he said, estimating the amount of concrete visible from the Colorado River side of the hulking structure.

But McKeown had no complaints about the view, the food or the weather. "It's zero (degrees Celsius) in Toronto," he said. "This is great out here."

Marina Houser and friend Lora Hudson exchange river daytrips down the Colorado River with family members as birthday and holiday gifts. The Lake Mead excursion was a twist on that theme.

As a birthday present, Hudson's son bought two tickets for his mother to enjoy a cruise around the lake with Houser, her longtime friend.

"This is something I wouldn't have thought of for myself," Hudson said.

Hudson and Houser wrapped themselves in their light coats to keep warm against the breeze on the top deck.

"We came here not knowing what to expect and, well, up here, outside, it's beautiful, peaceful" Houser said.

Although Hudson's birthday was in March, balloons were tied to her chair, per her son's request when he bought the tickets.

When dessert was served, guests in the second-deck dining room chimed in singing "Happy Birthday" to Hudson, who was pink with delight.

"This was more than I expected," she said.

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